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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all, with a new project in the shed its time to show everone how I do things, weather be right or wrong.
57 Hardtop, purchased in Melbourne Aust.
I'm planning on showing a lot of photo of how I do things as I go along with the rubuild.
We bought the car sight unseen, and after travelling odd 3000 km with a trailer to pick it up, well I was just glad to get it home.
The body is in very poor shape and will need a lot of panels replacing and parts sourced.

Plans for the car are to keep her original from the outside expept for wheels and lowering.
Engine is 454 with turbo 400 and 9 inch diff with disc brakes all round. This is a total rebuild with everthing being rebuilt or renewed.

A couple of pictures of when I first go her home







A couple of shots of just some of the rust













I've now removed the body from the chassis and have started on a few repairs to the chassis before attacking the body. Firstly I had to do a bit of straightening of the chassis as it was bent in transit due to being chained down when shipped.

Then is a replacement chassis end rail on the RH side due to being damaged and having a dodgee repair done. I was lucky enough to find a friend in Aust that was doing a chassis graft on his 57 and was no longer using the front end or rail sections.













While working in this area, I started on changing the steering from LH to RH drive on the chassis. This is done by way of Nissan power steering box and an original RH drive drag link from a chev that was sourced along with mounting template from a very helpful chap down south .

Firstly the new bolt holes were marked and holes drilled and fitted with crush tubes in the bolt holes







Then a section was made and welded to the chassis to accomodate the top bolt hole in the steering box.







Then with the steering all mounted up. Very easy conversion. Especially when you have a template that takes all the work out of it for you.





Next thing is adding a rear spring pocket kit, to allow for some decent size rims and tyres to fit under the back

Firstly to remove the front spring hangers



Marking out for the pockets to fit into the chassis & cuting out the marked areas







Fitting of the pockets into the chassis and welding in.











Rear mounts to be removed



Mark out for the new rear mounts. With this Im not conforming to using the kit brackets as I'm not wanting to loose any strength at the rear of the chassis. So Im using a sleeve through the chassis for the top hanger. This was done after extensive measureing of the spring movement (weighted and unweighted) to ensure clearence of the hanger and spring to the chassis.
I will be adjusting the springs accordingly at a later date to get the correct ride height.

Marking of new top hanger mounts



Sleeves in and welded









All fitted up, and looks good.



 

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Yup, the old tin worm did come and make an unwanted visit:evil: :anim_25: with the 57... Later, Dave
 

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I can't wait to see how it turns out:D:tu
 

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Good to see the steering box conversion worked out.
What column are you going to use, I used a HT Holden one and the rag joint slipped straight onto the Nissan steering box. You would just have to check it will fit if you convert the 57 dash as they are a bit different around the top.
 

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I see you are going to use a Big Block. I am just putting a set of Headers on mine now. I used these pipes in the link http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-68190/ They are only 1 3/4 pipes but I am only using a 396 and they are cheap. The L H side fits perfect but the RH side will have to be modified I have cut the front two pipes off and will redo them.
I also have these on my 56 4 door with a 454 which runs low 11`s easily so they arnt to bad. By the way my engine sits back where the small block sits and is not forward at all.

Also Castle Auto electrics make headers to suit a Big Block with a Nissan steering box but the engine will have to use Castlemaine rod shop mounts or Adrian Seelenmeyer mounts which are approx 1 3/4 forward. Check out there websites.

I will get some photos tomorrow and post them they also sit higher than the chassis so they won`t hit anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys, Ive made my own front engine mounts and have started making the extractors already. I'm using 2 inch primary tubes. Certainly is taking some getting around the steering box though. The steering column I was planing on using is HQ with the ignition key blanked off. I've ordered one of the smaller 15 inch original style steering wheels and are not sure of the spline size yet until it turns up.
 
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great work, looking good. thanks for pics. :five: .............so what did you do after lunch? :winking0070:
 

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Great!

cop111car: Nice work! Great pics-keep us posted; it is an interesting project. Continued :anim_25:
 

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Thanks for sharing the great pics. Since it was left drive it should have the 57' dash versus the 56' right? How are you going to work that?

Don
 

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Thanks guys, Ive made my own front engine mounts and have started making the extractors already. I'm using 2 inch primary tubes. Certainly is taking some getting around the steering box though. The steering column I was planing on using is HQ with the ignition key blanked off. I've ordered one of the smaller 15 inch original style steering wheels and are not sure of the spline size yet until it turns up.
Just incase you didnt know the lower spline on the HQ column is larger but it is interchangable with the lower spline half of a HK HT HG Holden column because it is collapsible and you just slide the hq bottom half off and slide the earlier one on. Or I think you can use the whole of the inner column which will give you two spline options on both ends for wheel fitment and rag joint fitment.

I also made my mounts as I wasnt happy with anything that was available here in Australia.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was hoping I would be able to get something else to interchange with the HQ inner shaft. But I wasnt' going to do to much chasing around until I get the new steering wheel and see what the spline size is.

MORE UPDATES

I've progressed a bit with the rebuild but haven't posted anything until now so I have a bit of catching up to do with posting of pictures and info

Well I managed to pick up a 454 BB in bits that needed rebuilding. The motor was mostly complete and had a sump on it that I couldn't imagine would fit in any car.

Firstly a bit of cutting and moving of sections of the sump






Then I folded up a new high volume pan for the sump




And finally welded it all together







Next I moved onto the firewall. I'm adding a new smoothed recess to the firewall and new toe panels.

This is the new section I folded up to replace the old one.







Firstly I removed the front body mounts as I will be joining the new section behind the mount area







Marking out ready for the cutting to begin





Here is the old section and the new




Now with the old firewall section removed, I also reworked the top edge of the firewall so as it looks uniform to the other side.







Fitting of the new recess section







I also removed the old toe boards as they were also rusted out in the corners. These sections were supplied with the car when I bought it.







Here we are all in place ready to weld in.







I'm not welding the firewall together at this stage as next Im going to do the dash conversion from LH to RH of the 57 dash.
With the firewall out it will make it a lot easier to cut, weld, grind and shape the dash with access from the back.


.:congrats:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Now for the dash, this is going to be a challenge

Firstly a couple of pictures of the back of the dash looking from the firewall side. It will certainly make things easier with this panel out the way







Starting to mark out sections to be cut out. I cut the dash in sections hopefully making it easier to refit. I initally thought I might be able to cut 1 section out and weld it straight into the other side before moving on to the next section, but thats not how it worked out





Removing sections of the dash















I made up a template of where I cut the instrument section from so I could use it on the other side when cutting it out





Finally all the dash removed in sections







Starting to weld in the first section







Now for making of a new section for what I call the radio panel









Welding in of the radio panel









I used a section of steel rod clamped to the back of the dash to help keep it all straight when welding





Starting to weld in the top section on the LH side that was removed from the RH side





And with some gap filling to do I might add













Now for the glove box area. I left the ash tray on the original side, due to laziness and feeling a bit over it by this stage















Here's a couple of shots from behind







Now for the instrument section to be welded in and a lot more gap filling to do



















Finally all ground up and finished off, with only a bit of hammering and slapping around on the top to get the shaping finished







I can tell you there was a lot of Jim Beam downed after this little effort
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes with the way the relocation kit is set up I think you would loose some strength in the chassis behind the rear spring hangers. But maybe I'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Next is to repair the rust in the LH rear windscreen pillar. At first this seamed very daunting, then it just got worse.

First a couple of shots of the rust before I attacked it







Then it was a job of unpicking the pillar section by section, to try and keep what I had left in tact, so I could use them for a pattern for the new panels.















Then to start making the new panels to replace the old



















Before I removed all the rusted pillar section, I made a metal template of the window opening and tack welded it in place to give me an idea of where the edges of the new panels are to finish. I also welded a brace on the inside to keep the roof in correct position.





Once this was done out came the rest of the rusted pillar sections.





This is a picture of all the different pieces that go into making a rear windscreen pillar





Now comes the good bit, where you start putting it all back together











Now to make the new drip rail section and fit that







Now to make the new roof section and fit that









Heres a shot of the inside with all the new panels fitted





Now for the finished product. After many, many trial fittings of the rear windscreen







Hope I'm not boaring everyone with the many photos

Cheers

Mal
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Once the LH rear pillar was done, I started taking the paint off the rear of the roof to see if there was any rust under the paint. Surprise surprise it was full of rust that had been filled with filler.





So then it started again, cutting out rust, making new sections and welding it in







With repairing the roof, I did this in sections so as not to loose the shape of the roof





Next section











Next section















Thats all that done now except for the last 6 inches that meet up to the other rear pillar thats also rusted out.
This section Im leaving until I get the RH pillar repaired.

Mal
 
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