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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done this modification? I plan on running 2x8” rafters along both sides of the 2x4 against the roof and then using a collar tie on the upper portion of the rafter. I will notch the end resting on the wall and butt the upper ends together using a 1/2” plywood piece, glued and screwed on the upper ends. I am only modifying 3 of the trusses in order to raise the car on the lift. Does this sound reasonable?
 

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Make sure you do the mods/reinforcements to the trusses BEFORE you cut out the ceiling joist portion for those three, and I think I understood that you were 'tying' the three cut/reinforced ones into the adjacent trusses on each side of the ones you plan to cut - and that's a good idea you should do!
 

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SoCal, I guess snow load isn't a worry. With your plans keep in mind that it will want to push outwards on the walls. Picturing that force is the main thing you want to prevent. You may have those big staple plates in the way, but I'd try to run a light weight center beam of sorts the length of the cut plus 2 more on each side. Or if those plates in the way 1 2x6 or even 2x4 on each side of the peak. Here's a trick. Buy lumber that is dry and warped, then attach each end first, with the warp pushing upwards in the middle. Use a jack if needed, then attach it in the middle ones.
Actually the house I grew up in built in the 50's had a large vaulted ceiling in the large living room. At each end where the vault stopped, up in the attic it had cables to help keep it from spreading the walls. They can do much more than reinforcing the other trusses since you can tighten them with a turnbuckle to give them preload. Tighten them til they twang like a banjo.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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You don't need the 2x8's. Just reshape your trusses before you cut anything out as mentioned. 2x4's and truss plates or plywood and glue and screws. To elaborate, put 2x4's along side of the existing trusses in the shape of the vault. Then cut the existing truss out and add 2x4's in the truss plane.


It's amazing how strong a truss is. I built my house using 44' pre-built 2x4 trusses with a 7-12 pitch roof. The front half of the truss was vaulted as in the "vault" picture. When I set the trusses on the walls, I found out the concrete under the center wall was 3/4" inch higher then the outside walls. I though I would just fasten one end to the top plate and pull the end of the truss down with a clamp. It pulled the opposite end of the 44' truss off the top plate. I ended up notching the center wall for the truss.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the replies. I think I am on the right track and I appreciate the pictures in you discussion acardon. Good to know I don’t have to use the 2x8. It’s a 13’ run for the rafter and the 2x8’s would be a hassle. I will take some measurements and see if I could make a scissors truss work. Thanks again for the help. I’ll try and post some pics of progress.
 

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It's going to be difficult to say the least to *rebuild* the trusses in place. Those metal plates give amazing strength but they normally put them in with a press. I've tried hammering them in without any luck. With whatever you do, just always picture it as the top (ridge) pushing down and the ends are trying to push the walls outward. That may sound a little extreme, but it's an easy way of looking at it and understanding what you need to do to prevent any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I removed the first truss today and the roof didn’t fall. Ha! In fact, it didn’t budge one iota. Tomorrow I will cut out the other two and raise the car for the first time on the 4 post! That will be a great day!
 

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Post some photos of what you did. Considering whether to do that on mine. Thing is I'm cramped for floor space as much as vertical space so having vertical space for a lift is really only a partial solution.
 

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Almost 20 years ago I removed the center of a truss on my pole barn for a two post lift, bracing off the two adjacent trusses to give me a 10 foot wide vaulted area for a lift. So far life is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I raised the car with no issues and plenty of space. Heck, I can lift my truck with no issues. Very happy with the results. Now to get the garage door reconfigured. I am unable to post pictures because I am member of photobucket and they want money now to upload photos. I haven’t decided on a photo hosting website yet. It seems they all want access to all of my photos.
 

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I raised the car with no issues and plenty of space. Heck, I can lift my truck with no issues. Very happy with the results. Now to get the garage door reconfigured. I am unable to post pictures because I am member of photobucket and they want money now to upload photos. I haven’t decided on a photo hosting website yet. It seems they all want access to all of my photos.
You can post your photos directly from your home computer... using the 'attachment' feature; no internet photo address necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Really! Nice! When did that happen? I guess I missed it! Can you post from an iPhone or iPad?

Whoohoo. Looks like it worked. My ceiling is 9 ft high. Garage door is 8 ft. Distance from the ramps at full lift to the collar ties is 7’5”.
 

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It does look good. It helps a lot that your roof isn't a real low pitch, that's when problems arise. And nice to see you can post pics, it's much better than a link to pics that may change someday and they will be lost for the archives.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I have been getting quotes from local companies to convert my std lift garage door to a high lift door that will follow the ceiling and am a little disappointed. $1600 seems very high for this! I can source the parts and do it myself but I need to know what springs to use. I’ll be using the 400-54 drums. 27” of high lift and then following a 30 degree pitch for approximately 5 more feet. I am planning on using 12 foot cables. It has a single 34” spring on it now that gives perfect balance. Wood door 8x8. .243 coil, 2” ID. Not sure how many turns. I would like to use two springs in case one would fail. Can anyone help me on what springs I would need? Thanks.
 

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Garage

I have been getting quotes from local companies to convert my std lift garage door to a high lift door that will follow the ceiling and am a little disappointed. $1600 seems very high for this! I can source the parts and do it myself but I need to know what springs to use. I’ll be using the 400-54 drums. 27” of high lift and then following a 30 degree pitch for approximately 5 more feet. I am planning on using 12 foot cables. It has a single 34” spring on it now that gives perfect balance. Wood door 8x8. .243 coil, 2” ID. Not sure how many turns. I would like to use two springs in case one would fail. Can anyone help me on what springs I would need? Thanks.
I'd replace that wooden door, they are very heavy compared to the new doors.

Dangerous Joe :viking:
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Thought I would post a follow up on the garage project. The door has been converted to high lift and it is working really well. I am able to raise the car all the way up, 74”, and have room to spare with the door fully open. It took some doing but I am glad I decided to do it myself. I had a quote for $1600 parts and labor and that was just way too much! I was able to do the job for less than half that. I sourced the parts and opener from DDM Garage Doors. Nice people and quick response to email and phone calls. Garage door is 8’x8’. 11’ from the floor to the shaft/spring assembly. 13’ 7” from the floor to the collar ties. Now I can park the new car under the 57! I included a cool picture of a friend and I this past Sunday at the drags. Fun day.

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