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I went a different route with my 4L60E. I had plenty of small double throw relays scrounged from my donor truck. I used one of those wired to the original switch to create the appropriate connection. B
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Am sure there will be more questions....a lot of hurdles remain around the bend. All input is appreciated.

Mike
 

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I put a 4L60 (700R4) in my 55. I used a brake light switch for a 1993 Caprice wagon for the lock up. It also gave me a spot to wire up a third brake light. The switch goes right in the hole for the original brake light switch. Make sure you get the metal ring that locks in the switch and adjusts it.
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This is the schematic I got from BTO - I assume they use a relay because they are using a brake switch with only one set of terminals. If I use the SLS-159 it would appear all I need is keyed/fused power to SLS-159 then down to purple wire on trans, thus eliminating the relay. No vac switch or toggle switch will be used. Am I interpreting this correctly?
BTO_700R4_TCC Lockup Wiring.jpg
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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If I use the SLS-159 it would appear all I need is keyed/fused power to SLS-159 then down to purple wire on trans, thus eliminating the relay. No vac switch or toggle switch will be used. Am I interpreting this correctly?
Yes, that is correct.
 

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Only thing I see wrong with their diagram is it assumes the 4th gear lockup solenoid is internally grounded, which isn't always the case. Sometimes it's not, so terminal D would need to go to ground if it's not internally grounded. If it's wired with 12 v. positive to both A and D then there's no potential to ground to complete the circuit and lock up the converter, unless it's internally grounded.
You'll need to plug in the connector, and read wires "A" and "D" to ground on the case, to determine if they read to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Only thing I see wrong with their diagram is it assumes the 4th gear lockup solenoid is internally grounded, which isn't always the case. Sometimes it's not, so terminal D would need to go to ground if it's not internally grounded. If it's wired with 12 v. positive to both A and D then there's no potential to ground to complete the circuit and lock up the converter, unless it's internally grounded.
You'll need to plug in the connector, and read wires "A" and "D" to ground on the case, to determine if they read to ground.
Holy cow...you may be getting a more questions from me. Don't want to throw good money and time at typical stupid moves I make when I get confused. Have not been in the shop for a week so need to get back out there.

Mike
 

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Glad to assist Mike, and hope I can direct you to the same sources that helped me get mine working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
For my 700r4 I simply went simple and avoided all switches. There's no need for a brake switch at all if you use a hydraulic pressure switch. Simply take a keyed power wire and run it to the pressure switch, and then from pressure switch to terminal "A" of the connector, and from "D" to ground. The Superior Solutions pressure switch closes on pressure rise to lock the converter as rpm's rise. Then unlocks as you let off the gas and rpm's slow. So no chance the converter will lock up too soon.
And they're only $37 for the kit., and takes less than 30 minutes to install.

Does this require dropping the pan, or just plumbing into the 4th gear pressure plug on the right side of the transmission? I'm going to head out to my shop to see what the Painless harness has for transmission wires. I know for certain there is the 4-pin connector on the left side.

Thanks for your contributions and helping my progress forward.

Mike
 

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The hydraulic pressure switch fits into an existing plugged hole in the case. There were two plugged holes, and one is the pressure side, and instructions said which one to use. Other than that it just needs a powered feed that is hot when the key is turned on. The rest is just routing to the pressure switch, and then to the electrical connector on the case. No reason to drop the pan unless you weren't sure how it's wired, and needed to actually look at the 4th gear solenoid to confirm it.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The hydraulic pressure switch fits into an existing plugged hole in the case. There were two plugged holes, and one is the pressure side, and instructions said which one to use. Other than that it just needs a powered feed that is hot when the key is turned on. The rest is just routing to the pressure switch, and then to the electrical connector on the case. No reason to drop the pan unless you weren't sure how it's wired, and needed to actually look at the 4th gear solenoid to confirm it.
My wife had owned the car since new... I dropped the pan to change the filter before setting up the drivetrain in the chassis. Definitely a stock transmission.

Mike
 
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