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Discussion Starter #1,221
Sorry Mike , I was asking about Vinyl Wheel Well Covers & rear seat top hinge mounting location.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,223
Twin thanks for posting. Sounds good. Any more videos , in The future. You may want a different individual filming . Just saying ,
 

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Dave - are you doing the side walls also? Think I may remember a picture of you putting it under the wood of the cargo area also - ?
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #1,227
Not sure about those areas ?
Wonder what “ You know who” did on Arlem’s sweet Nomad 🤔
Dave
 

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Not sure about those areas ?
Wonder what “ You know who” did on Arlem’s sweet Nomad 🤔
Dave
We put Pro Form (much less expensive version of Dynamat) under the plywood, over the wheel wells and on the side walls. Dave (a.k.a. You know who)
 

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Mr. You Know Who, :ROFLMAO: I did a quick look up of Pro Form and only found a spray-on product perhaps like Lizard Skin...didn't find a sheet product. Can you provide a little more info please, or is it Canadian only,eh?
JR
 

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Mr. You Know Who, :ROFLMAO: I did a quick look up of Pro Form and only found a spray-on product perhaps like Lizard Skin...didn't find a sheet product. Can you provide a little more info please, or is it Canadian only,eh?
JR
I think the part number is PF 100 but I'm not certain. They're listed as foil backed sound deadener sheets. It might be a Canadian only brand. Not sure about that. I've also used Hush Mat and a couple others. They all seem to work about the same, although I can guarantee the Dynamat people would argue they are the best. The principle behind the insulation sheets is to impede sound by applying a vibration dampening butyl substance to the metal. It is not necessary to cover every square inch in order to make a huge difference, but most people (including me) use more than really needed. I saw a demonstration using several pieces of equal sized squares of sheetmetal that were hanging on hooks. There was no insulation on one, and progressively larger pieces of it on the others. By tapping each one with a little hammer, you could clearly hear the difference the amount of insulation made. But after about 50% of the surface was covered, there wasn't much change at all.
 

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Good post, Davlin... and very helpful to people who will read and heed.. :) It's all about the density of the material which will change the resonant frequency of the panel. Only other issues would be 'livlihood' (how long it will last), and odor (I haven't noticed any from the stuff I used).

PS. Dynamat HAS to say theirs is better since they charge 2X to 3X for it over other brands!~ :)
 

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Discussion Starter #1,232 (Edited)
A few guys local to me suggested this product. We get it off Amazon . Easy to work with .
Recently, on very hot humid days I stick it in shop fridge so it’s not too sticky.
Thanks guys for replies .
BTW , I have been thinking 🤔
D554E70F-CF4A-4135-BFAC-8FB64E6D898F.png
about a semi name change around here.
Stretch
 

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Following on my question about where to use the butyl /foil mat - I have a small supply of 'Boom Mat' from Design Engineering Inc - bought some on a deal at the NSRA Nationals last year, not enough to cover everything, but I think enough to do most surfaces. However I have also used Lizard Skin on both sides of the floor, on the wheel wells, and their thermal product on the underside of the roof - not on the side walls however. I guess my concern here is would the Boom Mat make a better substrate than just the Lizard Skin on the wheel well - for carpet...or will it matter, since it'll be carpet?
JR
 

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JR... the Lizard Skin was the 'paint on' type? If so, I'm wondering how you liked it and if you think it actually does anything? :) I've listened to their sales pitches at shows a few times, but never really been 'sold' on the lizard skin...?

Re the mat, I've used or 3 types, including Killmat as advertised above (either in Dave's post, or right in the middle of his post?)... The Kilmat is in rectangular pieces which are sized pretty well for putting on the quarters or inside door skins (I used 2 or 3 pieces of it in each place). I also used the 'user cut' from rolls brands, depending on where I was putting it and how much I needed. Basically the flatter and larger the panel, the more you need it. If the area is small and/or contoured with ribbing for structural bracing, then IMO you probably don't need it.
 

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About Lizard Skin.....Several of my clients have brought me their cars to upholster after shooting Lizard Skin. The stuff is horrible to work around. It's lumpy, which makes applying material (other than carpet or underfelt) directly over it next to impossible without a TON of prep to smooth it out. In most cases, my adhesive doesn't adhere to it very well, which is also a royal pain. The product may work well as a heat insulator, but I question it's value as a sound insulator, especially when compared to the other products we've been discussing here. Two more things...if either cost or weight is a concern, I'd really stay away from it. Aside from being expensive, the stuff is heavy! Just pick up a gallon of it if you ever have a chance.
 

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Ok. I am officially overwhelmed with info here. What would you guys recommend as the product to use on a Nomad roof for heat insulation?
 

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Ok. I am officially overwhelmed with info here. What would you guys recommend as the product to use on a Nomad roof for heat insulation?
Weight is always an issue with roof insulation, and this is one area I do NOT recommend using any sort of butyl product. In the intense summer heat, it can soften to the point where it simply drops off, and that's bad news all around. Dynamat makes a product called Dynaliner, a peel and stick foam sheet which is dense and quite thick. I've had customers supply it for their cars, and it sticks well and does indeed cut down the noise, but it's expensive. On both Snobad and my panel truck, I glued closed cell landau foam (which will not absorb moisture) to the entire roof, followed by a layer of underfelt. Bow clearance was an issue with the Nomad, so I used 1/8" foam and cut sections of felt to fit between the bows. It's done a great job of toning down the noise, but as for heat insulation probably not much. You might want to use the felt padding that has foil backing to help reflect some of the heat. Dave
 

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A few guys local to me suggested this product. We get it off Amazon . Easy to work with .
Recently, on very hot humid days I stick it in shop fridge so it’s not too sticky.
Thanks guys for replies .
BTW , I have been thinking 🤔 View attachment 320935 about a semi name change around here.
Stretch
I used this on my jeep hardtop then covered it with the jeep insulation kit ( stick on carpet). Works great and easy to mold...thin too..

Heat hasn't caused issues...im in Florida and the whole Jeep is black. Been on over a year. Reduced noise and temp.
 

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On my Nomad roof, I applied the insulation that was pushed here on this site by one of the members for awhile.. CarInsulation is the name of it, but it's 3/16" or so thick, has to be glued on, but sticks well with the 3M spray adhesives, and consists of film encapsulated air-bubbles. Oh, and it has a foil backing on both sides. Advertised as the lightest sound thermal insulation in the world.
( Car Insulation - Lightweight Thermal Sound Deadener )
I think this stuff will work well for thermal insulation (but IMO probably not so much for sound insulation - although the salesman claims otherwise).
updated with name of the insulation and website
 
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