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I would ideally have preferred a stainless retainer that was of the shape and gauge of the one Madmooks supplied for my C-pillars - they were very nice. There's only one local shop I know of with the capability to replicate something like it; but they only had stainless that was too thick...and wanted a small fortune to cut it and put one break on it. I don't want to overstate it - the the aluminum piece I came up with was inexpensive, easy to form into an angle and to shape to fit the curvature, and polished up nicely (though it will never really be seen).
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The flashing is from Lowe's, and is 48" long. I cut it down to 42". Once reforming into an angle, I was faced with cutting on edge to provide the correct width of each leg...Ultimately I just used a nice sharp pair of shears and my magnifying glasses to better see the line I drew. The cut edge was dressed with sand paper, and one face of the angle was run across the one polishing wheel I have until it had a nice finish...which I'll never really see.
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it's held in place with urethane sealer (NP-1) and five small s/m screws I counter sunk so as to make the head as flat as possible. Seemed to take about the same level of effort to bend it down onto the w/s as did the ones on the C-pillars. I'm satisfied with it.
 

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JR: I like your solution much better than the thick and rigid stainless piece that I bought from Jerry C...

PS. i went to Lowes the other day to get the NP1 (online said they had 22 tubes). I spent almost an hour looking at the rack/bin specified as well as all over the store without finding the stuff (lowes employees couldn't find it either). I did buy an 'advanced' urethane sealer (black) made by DAP which is hopefully the same stuff as the NP1.
 

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I once use 'Vulkem' urethane sealer from HD or Lowe's as an alternative...seemed to work okay... I get my NP-1 from a local mason supply, where they sell concrete blocks, landscape blocks, etc. They use the stuff to stick and seal blocks together.
JR
 

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I spent a little time working on the JerryC liftgate WS seal strip today; got it shaved down to where it almost fits in the channel area. I can probably get it to work if I have to.

I also installed the last 3 pieces of Stainless glass trim for the sliders/curved glass, and fiddled with a few other parts.
 

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Gary - I'm guessing you have not yet installed the curved glass? I trial-fitted mine and had some difficulty getting the small extensions of the rubber to fit in/under the rear lip of the rear of the front pieces of stainless...thinking I might need to remove the rearmost screws to lift them up to accept the extensions...?
JR
 

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JR: No, I haven't yet installed any of the glass, and I AM anticipating difficulty when installing the curved glass... I think one definitely needs another person to assist in that task! :) Finding reliable assistance from my friends at my age is a real issue these days! :) Most of my friends of my age are 'couch potatoes'.. L
 

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Discussion Starter #1,268
Bama , if I was closer, I would help ya out olde bud. Not that I am any way a expert.
If I can make a suggestion. Curved glass gasket fitment is very difficult with repro gaskets.
Yes , we are fortunate that they are reproduced. But they seem to be oversized compared to original.
As you are putting in and taking out glass and gasket . And you will many times .
Put a layer of bright yellow or green tape on gasket , so it’s easier to judge where gasket and ss are tight and not tight . Then you can mark tape before removing.
 

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Stretch: I'd welcome your assistance if you wanna stop by sometime.. :)

I'm not quite ready for installing quarter glass, although I do have T&N gaskets for the quarter glass. I was told by some Nomad experts that the T&N gaskets were almost a necessity for the quarter glass especially.

I haven't even loaded my doors as yet; trying to figure out the best order to install the parts! Just today, I vacuumed out the bottom of the doors and quarter panels, taped over the holes in the bottom, and sprayed a good coating of undercoating on the inside lower 6" or so. I probably should do the same thing to the bottom portion of the inner tail gate. Everywhere I look I've got tasks to do.. :) in fact, I've got to drill the holes for the weatherstrip retainers on the lower portion of the tailgate; apparently the bottom of the tailgate was replaced prior to my purchase..
 

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Discussion Starter #1,270
Nothing , Nothing to report here . Lost all momentum on Nomad past 10 days .
Great seeing you guys post positive results on your projects.
Be Safe
Stretch
 

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I've been working a few things recently... had to ship back the IDIDIT column (for adding an inch to the length). Ordering the necessary linkage rod and indicator bezels (received those already, just need the column back now).

I repainted some of the small parts that had runs or thin areas from my last effort. This time I used a single stage urethane but added some 'clear urethane' to the last coats which is what I'm more experienced with. Turned out much better than my first attempt to use base/clear. I think I'll stay with what I know better.. :)

I modified the JerryC stainless retainer so it would fit the liftgate weather-strip channel, then fitted it, drilled 5 small holes for later retaining it, then primed and painted it to match the roof color. I will give this a few days to cure then seal/mount the retainer, and then I can install the liftgate weatherstrip (on the body) to prepare for mounting the liftgate. Among the small parts I repainted were the HINGES which had some thin/bare spots from my first painting effort with them.

I've also spent a lot of time the past few days (and actually over this entire rebuild effort) looking for the correct fasteners for several items. Last night I went thru fasteners for my first 57 Nomad to find the correct fasteners for the LIFT GATE HINGES (both to the body and to the liftgate itself. Apparently these didn't come with the disassembled body I bought and am working on now, so it took me some time to ascertain exactly what I needed. What I found out is:

Hinge to body: 6 fasteners / hinge (12 total).
Hex head bolts with captive ext teeth star washers. 1/4-28, L=5/8".

Hinge to liftgate: 4 fasteners per hinge (8 total).
large pan-head phillips screws with captive star washers (ext teeth).
1/4-20 thread. Head ~ 1/2" in diameter.

I found/ordered the necessary fasteners from McMaster Carr last night, except I had to order the star washers separate from the Hex head bolts.


Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw
Grade 8 Steel, 1/4"-28 Thread Size, 5/8" Long
92620A538



Zinc-Plated Steel External-Tooth Lock Washer
for 1/4" Screw Size, 0.256" ID, 0.51" OD
91114A029


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Steel Pan Head Screws
with External-Tooth Lock Washer, 1/4"-20 Thread, 5/8" Long
90402A538


In checking those, I found where the disassembler had 'broken' one of the hinge/body fasteners in the roof mount, and rather than remove it then, left it and painted it all, so today I will attempt to drill thru it and use an easy out to remove it... :(
 

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Stainless Trim Restoration
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Looking forward to seeing what Mikey can do with the banged up, scratched cargo stainless! ... :) If he can make typical cargo stainless look good, then he can 'make magic'.. :)

Gary
 

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Stretch wrote: "I got the T Nuts configured . Staining Plywood."
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'T nuts configured?'... are you screwing in the plywood from the top or the bottom? Come on man.... :) we need photos.. and descriptions... and 'more'... :)

I'm just curious if you are Tnutting from the top and installing screws from the bottom of the floor (as I did), or if you've found a better way? :)
 

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Stainless Trim Restoration
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Looking forward to seeing what Mikey can do with the banged up, scratched cargo stainless! ... :) If he can make typical cargo stainless look good, then he can 'make magic'.. :)

Gary
I've been doing it for 40 years....long before any reproductions hit the market. You be the judge!

Strech has been sent these and more photos for his viewing pleasure.

Only 3 pcs to his tail gate, cargo area and back seat did I NOT DO

Mikey

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Discussion Starter #1,280
Bama, nice you are curious 🤔, I am Tnutting from the bottom. And installing SS Button heads from the bottom of floor as you did. I never even looked for a better way. T/Y for your info.

Have a little issue when Cargo plywood is pulled down tight . When I slide in the Tire Cover it lays flat. But in front of it , the center of cargo floor has a hump in it. One can not put a Tnut in this location because of slope of Tire Well. I am going to barrow my neighbors Nut Insert Tool. And attempt to sneak screw under SS trim . Stand By . . . 👀

Mikey : I had Cargo SS from 3 1/2 Nomad’s & 1 Safari. Ruff , as in Northeast Ruff. Yep , I sent him some junk . I did not have useable rear three pieces . Bought repro. We will see , or not see a difference in fitment & appearance. He sent me a very detailed PM today explaining details of crating & tracking info. It’s not just the quality of his work, it’s his passion for original parts , their restoration and Customer Service that does not exist today .
Thank You, Stretch
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