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Wanting to install new 350 crate motor and new trans in 1955 210 sedan. Looking at overdrive trans. Which to use? Having car rewired at same time so wiring either should not be an issue.
 

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Auto or Manual shift?
 

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if its an automatic

either 700R4, or 200R4.
both would require a few internal mods to be strong enough to last .
200r4 is shorter, (same length as 350 )
700r4 has lower 1st gear, but bigger gap on 1-2 shift.
both have been used successfully.
no computer required for either,
both require a "lockup" switch, found online , and ebay.
from $15 to $150 ,
I used the $15 ebay one in my 200R4, works perfect.
it all comes down to price and availability, and support.
( if you have a problem, who can help?)
 

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had a 700r4 in a 55 (I had), it was great. :tu
 

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700R4 or a 4L60E or 4L80E depending on your horsepower. The last two require a trans controller, but offer a more tailored approach when it comes to your likes on shift timing, firmness and so on.
 

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Auto: 700R4 or 4L60/4L80.

Manual: T56
 

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and a 2004r will use the stock drive shaft. Others will need cutting.

I don't have a lock-up on mine, it was built that way by the tranny guy. No issues.
 

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I have had a low budget built th700 in mine pushing 550hp for about five years.
With 4:11 gears it sits on 2400 rpm @ 60mph .I have a 3000 convertor and control the lockup with a manual switch. Without lockup it is around 2800rpm.
I cruise around town in third (1:1) but as soon as I head for the highway its overdrive and locked. I love it. Cheers
 

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I struggled with this same dilemma for months. I loved the idea of the 200r4 being the same size as my blown TH350. It came down to core availability and parts pricing for me. The 700r4 wins in both of those categories. As far as the 60E and 80E, be prepared to spend hundreds more on a rebuild and the headache of getting a stand alone controller. If you are running a LS motor, then an E makes more sense because the PCM can control the shift points.
 

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and a 2004r will use the stock drive shaft. Others will need cutting.

I don't have a lock-up on mine, it was built that way by the tranny guy. No issues.
I'm not going to run a lock-up on mine. My tranny guy says you don't need it unless you want a little better gas mileage on longer trips.

Don
 

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Given the choice over again....

I'm not going to run a lock-up on mine. My tranny guy says you don't need it unless you want a little better gas mileage on longer trips.

Don
We had the lockup deleted on our 200-4R also, but if I had it to do over again, I would keep it and just use a manual control switch for out on the highway. We have a 10 " 2400+- stall convertor, which is great for streetability and cruisin', but on the highway, in overdrive, and running less that 2400 rpm, I'm concerned on a long trip there might be an awful lot of heat going into the fluid. If we ever have occasion to pull the trans, I'll have the lock-up put back in. Of course that will require a torque convertor change, as this one is set up for no-lockup.
 
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