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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys.

I've been to my local parts outlets an surfed the internet looking for slightly longer wheel studs for Angie Mae.

Once the rear disc brakes were installed the thickness of the rotor created to little stud left for comfort when mounting the wheels on.

The factory size is 7/16"x20 with a .561 knurled head and 1 3/8" long. This leaves the stud about 3 threads inside the lug nut. Not safe in my opinion.

I'm looking to find some 7/16"x20 with .561 knurl and 1.5"-1.75" long.

So far I haven't found any from any of the big names or small names for that matter. Morroso and ARP make some that are 3" long but that would put them through hub caps. Not really looking at cutting new studs down to fit this application.

Any one else run into this situation?
 

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You can always cut the too long ones down.

You should have at least one diameter of nut engagement. On a 7/16-20 or 1/2-20 stud and nut, that is 9 and 10 threads respectively.

Dorman probably has some studs you can use, but the Moroso and ARP studs may be easier to get.

The reason that the aftermarket studs are so long is that NHRA requires the stud to stick through the nut. That way there's no doubt about the engagement, no measuring required.
 

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Trifive Certified Restoration Shop
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·


610-179

7/16-20 Serrated Wheel Stud - .565 In. Knurl, 1-3/4 In. Length Application Summary: Chevrolet 1991-71, GMC 1991-71, Jeep 1991-74
Application Attributes:
Style: Serrated Stud
Package Quantity: 10
Thread Size: 7/16-20
Knurl Diameter (In): 0.565
Packaging Type: Box
Shoulder Length (In): 0.875
Stud Material: Steel

http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/part_numbers/359346-wheel-stud-7-16-20-
We looked at these at the parts store. The placing of the knurl is too far forward and will not hold in the axel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You can always cut the too long ones down.

You should have at least one diameter of nut engagement. On a 7/16-20 or 1/2-20 stud and nut, that is 9 and 10 threads respectively.

Dorman probably has some studs you can use, but the Moroso and ARP studs may be easier to get.

The reason that the aftermarket studs are so long is that NHRA requires the stud to stick through the nut. That way there's no doubt about the engagement, no measuring required.
I understand the ruling for racing studs, but didn't want to buy them just to cut them down to length.

With all the people installing four wheel disc brakes on older cars these days. I had figured someone would have put together a wheel stud kit for the change over. I just haven't been able to find it.

Not interested in switching over to metric stud for the rear as that could cause a problem in the future if someone were to change wheels or inadvertently mix up front and rear lug nuts.

Trying to K.I.S for this situation.
 

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Nope. These are the stock steel wheels. The lug nuts aren't the problem. It's the length of (or lack of) the stud.
Right, they won't help you with your situation.

I'd buy the long ones from Moroso and cut them down. Not sure why you don't want to do that. Jegs has free shipping on everything right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Right, they won't help you with your situation.

I'd buy the long ones from Moroso and cut them down. Not sure why you don't want to do that. Jegs has free shipping on everything right now.
It takes more time and isn't the correct way of doing this. There should be something out there for this conversion.
 

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Hey Fuzzy - will this help? Notice the rolled threads which are stronger than cut threads.



B&B Wheel Studs are designed for use with aftermarket aluminum drag racing wheels. They are made from chrome-moly steel and heat-treated to exceed grade 8 specifications. They feature rolled threads and black oxide finish.

http://www.stefs.com/bandb/products/productpages/wheelstuds.htm
 
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