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55 2 Dr HT Long Island, NY
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am fixing rust patches on my lower front LH door. I cut the section that rusted through and the metal around it seems solid although heavily rusted and I am pretty sure the rust is the same across the whole inside bottom. I guess the best solution is to replace the entire bottom in anticipation of further rust. I am also thinking about advice previously given that you can't stop rust 100% and the car won't see many rainy days and no snow days and I won't know live forever so 20 years without rust would be great. I would appreciate opinions on this. Patch the rusted through area or the whole door bottom?

Thanks,
Art
 

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55 2 Dr HT Long Island, NY
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Inspect the door bottom for pin holes and deep pits. Light taps with a pick hammer may help locate those.
I stripped the paint off the bottom of the door and didn't find any deep pitted rust. What I can see inside the door looks ok. My problem seems to be where the outer skin meets the inner door. That wasn't true on the right side where it was more obvious it has to be replaced. I guess I am really asking if I replace the rust through parts, clean up what I can, seal up the inside of the door with a rust encapsulater and finish the body while keeping it garaged - can that stop the spread of rust?

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56 Bel Air 2dr Hardtop. Tunnel Rammed 327/M22, 9"rear w/4.57 Detroit Locker
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That's what I am trying to determine if I should just bite the bullet and do that now. I guess the absolute best thing to avoid rust is to buy a new body but that isn't in my budget.

Thanks.
The only way to know for sure is to open the door up and see how much rust is between the skin and the shell. The rust won't stop until it's all gone, that means it should be cut out and replaced with fresh metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The only way to know for sure is to open the door up and see how much rust is between the skin and the shell. The rust won't stop until it's all gone, that means it should be cut out and replaced with fresh metal.
I thought what you are suggesting is the safest way. I guess I was hoping to be overwhelming convinced to the contrary. I will use the left over sheet metal from my other door and try to fabricate something to replace the bottom so I can get in there and clean up everything. Thanks.
 

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If you can treat both sides a patch will last for years to come, the rest of the door looks to be in great shape.
and it took 67 years for that rust to get that bad.. any repair with proper prep should outlive the owner plus it won't see the elements it was exposed to before you got it.
 

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56 Bel Air 2dr Hardtop. Tunnel Rammed 327/M22, 9"rear w/4.57 Detroit Locker
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and it took 67 years for that rust to get that bad.. any repair with proper prep should outlive the owner plus it won't see the elements it was exposed to before you got it.
All very true. But, if you're going to take the time to do it, it should be done correctly. Plus, the next care taker might be your kid or grandkid and it will save them the aggrivation of having to redo it when the time comes. ;)
 

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All very true. But, if you're going to take the time to do it, it should be done correctly. Plus, the next care taker might be your kid or grandkid and it will save them the aggrivation of having to redo it when the time comes. ;)
I agree but as said, garaging it and keeping it clean it more than likely will last a lot more than 67 years.
 

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Totally agree with Shadetree55! Chasing rust can last forever to the point of never getting your car back on the road. I think it depends on your age and whether you’ve reached the point of wanting to drive and enjoy it rather than just working on it all the time. But that’s just me…after 42 years of wrenching and not driving! Haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Totally agree with Shadetree55! Chasing rust can last forever to the point of never getting your car back on the road. I think it depends on your age and whether you’ve reached the point of wanting to drive and enjoy it rather than just working on it all the time. But that’s just me…after 42 years of wrenching and not driving! Haha
Funny age is definitely a factor as I want to finish my project before I turn to dust 🙄.
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No need to relace solid metal but you have to be sure what your not replacing is solid. The bottom of a door can look ok because the rust is between the outer skin and inner structure. What I like to do is use a sharp tool like a scratch awl and poke around the suspected area. If the metal is good you can press on the pick pretty hard and it won't move or dent the metal at all. If there is a weak or thin spot it will dent the metal in or poke right through it.
Then you will know what you need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No need to relace solid metal but you have to be sure what your not replacing is solid. The bottom of a door can look ok because the rust is between the outer skin and inner structure. What I like to do is use a sharp tool like a scratch awl and poke around the suspected area. If the metal is good you can press on the pick pretty hard and it won't move or dent the metal at all. If there is a weak or thin spot it will dent the metal in or poke right through it.
Then you will know what you need to do.
I did take a pick and applied pretty good pressure and it held up fine. It seems that the corners of the door bottom between the outer skin and inner frame held moisture since both doors had the worst rust areas. Thanks for your help.
 

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When I replaced parts of my door that were rusted, I followed up with a coating of Rust Bullet. It's also a rust inhibitor that works well at penetrating surface rust to prevent further corrosion over time. The insides of the door won't see the moisture these did as a daily driver, but car washing still gets this area wet. Seal it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
When I replaced parts of my door that were rusted, I followed up with a coating of Rust Bullet. It's also a rust inhibitor that works well at penetrating surface rust to prevent further corrosion over time. The insides of the door won't see the moisture these did as a daily driver, but car washing still gets this area wet. Seal it.
I was able to get a good look at the inside of my door and it is coated with a good layer of surface rust. I will try to clean up what I can but I won't be able to get it back to clean metal. Would Rust Bullet be good for that? Do you spray it or brush it on?
Thanks
 
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