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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 383 stroker in my 56 but I don't know anything about it. It would help if I knew where it came from so that I know it's oil capacity, base timing, etc. The number cast near the head on the passenger side is: /0627TMX. Thanks for the help!
 

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It was assembled in the engine plant in Flint MI, on 06-27-74 for a frame build. This could be a school bus - or a motorhome, or even a dumptruck etc., basically left the factory with nothing more than a chassis, engine, trans and rear end (sometimes not even a rear depending on the order).

Its a good block - as you said its a 383 - someone fit the crank to it using a core block. We got more truck blocks in the core pallets than passenger. Same block though - just more truck suffixes hit the boneyard.

That suffix tells what crank, cam, pistons, heads and manifold/carb were assembled to it in Flint - once those came off to build the 383 it means nothing unless you are numbers matching. Once it became a 383 all those base specs went out the window. Same capacity as any other 350 - if its using the pass oil pan 5+filter. Timing is relative to comp ratio and cam - without the cam specs you're gonna be on your own anyway.
 

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Oil PAN??

you might post a couple of pic's of oil pan and see if we can identify capacity, Or drain oil, add 4 qts and see hpw much is on your dipstick then add one at a time until you reach the full mark.:bowtier:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, it's got an edelbrock intake + carb, heads, cam and all kinds of good stuff. It's even got Mallory ignition, which I suspect to be too advanced at the moment. My main concern, actually, is a ticking/tapping/clicking-sorta noise that is most noticeable at idle and under load. I know it's off-topic for the thread, but I'm really concerned about it, I'll try to get a video of it if that can help. I was thinking maybe exhaust gasket, or valves in need of adjustment?
 

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Exh gasket is fairly easy - have someone hold a rag over the pipe end and bring up the RPMs - you will see and hear the leak - or run it in a dark garage and you will see flame at the leaks (if the leak is not too far under the flange - but an inspection mirror would do the trick. Headers leak so much that if you even suspect a leak you should probably change the gasket.

The valve lash is a little harder - as you do not know if your hyd or solid! But you can figure that out fairly easy - pul the valve covers run your hand down the line of rocker arms - if some are loose and some are tight you are probably solid and need to set the lash - if all but a couple are tight you are probably hyd and the lose one(s) would be the culprits.

Doubt if your timing is doing it - you would have a real hard time starting it when warm long before you have an idle ping! But if the vacc adv is connected to the wrong carb port (manifold instaed of ported) it would start and then pull adv. - so disconnect the line at the dist to make sure - if on the correct port of the carb there will be no vacc there at idle - it should only pull vac after you open the throttle a lttle.
 
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