Hey all, the build begins! What should be the clearance on the crank bearings? I have the plastigage ready to go and I need to know what it should show.
ETriggs
Well guess what. First main cap.... put the plastigage in, torqued it down, pulled it up to check thickness. First one ok. I cleaned off the plastigage and put the cap back on. Torqued it back down and BAM!
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Why me? Who did I make mad in a previous life? I guess a new set is on order.
AND I GOTTA DRILL THIS ONE OUT!!!
Why me? Who did I make mad in a previous life? I guess a new set is on order.
AND I GOTTA DRILL THIS ONE OUT!!!
Hi Eldon.
Sorry to see that, but its MURPHYS LAW what can go wrong will go wrong.
But dont give up it will be a great engine.:tu
Sorry to see that, but its MURPHYS LAW what can go wrong will go wrong.
But dont give up it will be a great engine.:tu
The left overs shouldn't be hard to get out unless it bottomed out. The bolt had probably been stretched one too many times. The plastigage width (measured at the widest point with the package gage) should be .001 to .003".
Thanks! The remains of the bolt are out. There was enough of a lip where I could get a punch on it and tap it out. Well, I will order a set of ARP replacements.
I have a torque question though. The stuff on the internet I found says that the bolts should be dipped in oil and torqued to 70ft-lbs. That soulds reasonable. The 57 Shop manual says 100-100ft-lbs. That is where I broke it (around 90-95 ft-lbs)
70 or 100?
I have a torque question though. The stuff on the internet I found says that the bolts should be dipped in oil and torqued to 70ft-lbs. That soulds reasonable. The 57 Shop manual says 100-100ft-lbs.
That is where I broke it (around 90-95 ft-lbs)70 or 100?
Eldon, Motors Repair Manual says 60 to 70 LBS on the mains. You may have picked up 235 six cylinder torque specs. as they torque at 100 to 110 LBS.
Ahhh! Thanks! I sent an e-mail to the guy that machined the motor to see what the new bolts will cost. I can get them Jegs for $33.95 so if he can sell them for less, I know where I am getting mine. Thanks Mike!
Thanks Mike!
Eldon, mains are 60 to 70 ft/lbs as are the heads. Rods are 30 to 35 ft/lbs. I use some liquid teflon sealant on the head bolt threads. Got my heads on today and adjusted the valves per the manual. Ended up going in for snow last night from 9 to 1.
Dave
Dave
I think your passing that bad luck around Eldon. I was just down in the shop working on the 56 and shorted out my Autometer temp gauge,,let all the smoke out!
I called it a day and came back inside.
I get the factory temp gauge working good and I cook my autometer backup gauge,,sheesh!
I guess I'm not allowed to have both of them working at the same time. lol!
I called it a day and came back inside.
I get the factory temp gauge working good and I cook my autometer backup gauge,,sheesh!
I guess I'm not allowed to have both of them working at the same time. lol!
Hey all. I have an update on the oil filter. The mounting I have is that for a Corvette motor and the proper Wix canister is 51100. I will upload pics.
Ok. Here are pics. Question: I need to sandblast this to get rid of the rust, but what are these colors and can I match them somehow? I know I can get the decal for the top.
That blue looks like the same color they used on the Blue Flame valve covers? Not totally sure about this though
That is what I was thinking guys.. Laszlo, we were thinking alike! Broncos and Auburn, same colors and love them both!
They are both flat paints, so I will see what I can get. Also! There are some pits from rust, can I fill them with a little bit of Metal-2-Metal or just do several coats of paint?
Thanks guys!
Broncos and Auburn, same colors and love them both! They are both flat paints, so I will see what I can get. Also! There are some pits from rust, can I fill them with a little bit of Metal-2-Metal or just do several coats of paint?
Thanks guys!
I read somewhere that they used ford engine blue and chevy engine orange for the canister. Said it was a pretty close match.
Terry
Terry
Sounds like a plan.
Question: Has anyone drilled out the oil filler neck on the Edelbrock intakes?
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Question: Has anyone drilled out the oil filler neck on the Edelbrock intakes?
Always wondered that myself, doesent look to difficult.
A tip: if you do decide to do it yourself, DO NOT buy the Ridgid hole saws, they are junk, returned two sets to Home depot because the saw bit wobbled horribly on the arbor drill bit (cut the hole wider in my valve covers due to the wobble). The Milwaukee's worked excellent and didnt wobble.
A tip: if you do decide to do it yourself, DO NOT buy the Ridgid hole saws, they are junk, returned two sets to Home depot because the saw bit wobbled horribly on the arbor drill bit (cut the hole wider in my valve covers due to the wobble). The Milwaukee's worked excellent and didnt wobble.
How do they work with aluminum? I know they are good for wood and the occasional nail/screw, but will they work with metal?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I wouldn't even consider doing that with a hole saw. Take it to a machine shop and have then bore the proper sized hole in it, or find one that already has the hole.
Eldon, you seen to be confused. On one hand you seem to want to keep this engine stock-looking, even to the extent of using a stock oil filter with stock colors.....now you're going to use an Edelbrock aluminum manifold. What exactly is the theme of your car?
Eldon, you seen to be confused.
On one hand you seem to want to keep this engine stock-looking, even to the extent of using a stock oil filter with stock colors.....now you're going to use an Edelbrock aluminum manifold. What exactly is the theme of your car?
They make a bimetal cutting saw, just need to select your size for the filler tube hole. you'll want an interference fit somewhat. a thin layer of JB weld and hammer it in. drill slow and keep the chips blown out or they will gunk up the teeth with alum.
It will save you some bucks, versus taking it to the machine shop.
It will save you some bucks, versus taking it to the machine shop.
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