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sonseeker

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Every spring i change the oil and filter on my cars although they only have 3-600 miles per season on them. They sit in a heated workshop all winter with a battery tender on them. And i occasionaly start them weather permitting and run them for 10 minutes or so,probably 1-3 times per winter. Do i need to change the oil this often and why? (moisture) I use Shell Rotella T 10w30 and AC or Fram filters.
 
every other year works for me with mine. I too only put a few hundred miles on it a year. :tu
 
Most motor oils have a shelf life of around 5 years if unopened and stored properly. This drops to about 2 years if a bottle is opened due to air infiltration (which in some areas can also mean moisture infiltration).

Once put into an engine, you now introduce other contaminates like fuel bleed past the rings combined with moisture and air (and depending on the engine condition possibly antifreeze). This would further lessen the life span of the oil. The main issue though is not that the degradation of the base oil (whether it is standard dino oil or synthetic), but rather the tendency of the additives to actually separate and fall out of chemical suspension.

I am not saying that you are necessarily going to do harm to your engine if you only change it every other year, but it seems like a bit of a chance to take for a relatively small price.
 
Agree every other year . Mike
 
Those little ten minute start up,s are not long enough to really warm the engine up to normalized conditions. that little start up adds moisture from condensation and combustion vapors to the crankcase. change the oil every 6 months. Ive pulled the dipsticks on engines that had been setting for years. And the oil looked brand new. because all the additives and contaminates had settled to the bottom.
 
Those little ten minute start up,s are not long enough to really warm the engine up to normalized conditions. that little start up adds moisture from condensation and combustion vapors to the crankcase.
That is right...... Ten minutes is not enough to get the oil hot enough to dissipate the condensation it actually creates. Cold wintertime starts need a much longer run time.
Pull the dipstick and smell the oil. Cold short starts can give it a strong gasoline smell. I would change it if it does.

Don
 
I agree with every other year, but at least run the motor 20- 30 min's minimum especially in Michigan's climate. Even though you have a heated garage you want to warm both the engine and exhaust system to purge all condensation. I have seen a lot of premature failures on exhaust systems because of short commutes and not enough heat to disperse the moisture.

Ken 57 bowtie-trifive
 
At Least Yearly!

Those little ten minute start up,s are not long enough to really warm the engine up to normalized conditions. that little start up adds moisture from condensation and combustion vapors to the crankcase. change the oil every 6 months. Ive pulled the dipsticks on engines that had been setting for years. And the oil looked brand new. because all the additives and contaminates had settled to the bottom.
I've got to disagree (politely) with the biannual change suggestions! Yearly at a (scares me) minimum. Lonewolf85 is absolutely correct in my opinion, oil is cheap compared to condensation, acid build up eating bearings, possibly wiping a cam. Engines AIN'T cheap. Oil and filters are! :anim_25:
 
Oil

I agree with I time a year or even twice due to you starting it 3 times a year for short periods. You may even do more harm with the short starts. I have heard from some that is the worst thing to do. I could be wrong but If I start mine after sitting a month or so I run it for 30 min or so. I have herd that creates a lot more moister by just letting it run for short durations. No expert here just passing on what I've herd.
 
When I was little we lived in northern Indiana. It got very cold in the winter. There was a neighbor who drove a old Babbitt rod Chevy Pickup. I think it was a 1950. Likely had a 216 engine. In the cold morning old Leroy would build a small fire under the oil pan. and carry the six volt battery outside and install it. He would use the manual choke and start it up. and gradually open the choke and let it idle. The he then went inside and smoked a Lucky strike cigarette and drank a cup of black coffee. Then came out with the oil bath air cleaner and installed it and drove to work. No oil filter on the engine. and Leroy changed the oil every 60 days. and pulled off the oil pan and cleaned it every summer. And the engine outlasted the body and frame. The salt rust ate the metal to big holes patched with sheet metal ect.. I seen it last in 64 the engine still running fine the result of clean oil.
 
I would change every year and I don't want to start an oil filter hupla :sign0020:but I would do some reading on oil filters and I will never use a Fram filter in anything. Wix and NAPA are the same and get great ratings and cost about the same as Fram. AC should be fine also.

Those short start ups are bad for your engine and don't get the moisture and unburned gas out of the engine. Then it mixes with your oil and is in there for 2 years.:bowtier:
 
I'm switching to Valvolene VR-1 today. I've used AC filters since the early 70's, never had an issue, I buy them through Amazon. I also change my oil a minimum of 2 times a year, or more often if I drive over 3000 miles. I have never owned a car that used oil, some leaked, but no burning.
 
Most motor oils have a shelf life of around 5 years if unopened and stored properly. This drops to about 2 years if a bottle is opened due to air infiltration (which in some areas can also mean moisture infiltration).

Once put into an engine, you now introduce other contaminates like fuel bleed past the rings combined with moisture and air (and depending on the engine condition possibly antifreeze). This would further lessen the life span of the oil. The main issue though is not that the degradation of the base oil (whether it is standard dino oil or synthetic), but rather the tendency of the additives to actually separate and fall out of chemical suspension.

I am not saying that you are necessarily going to do harm to your engine if you only change it every other year, but it seems like a bit of a chance to take for a relatively small price.
I agree to a point. Many manufacturers say to change oil every 3 months or 3K miles to maintain their warranty. (I know that has been extended now on newer vehicles) I think they know what they are talking about, they designed the engine. Age will break down oil in your crankcase, especially with frequent short trips and cold starting. Older vehicles with older engines especially running dino oil NEED to be changed more often, regardless of miles driven. Dino oil is cheap, so I just don't get the reluctance to change it on a more frequent basis! I run synthetics in mine, so I stretch that to every 6 months due to low miles driven. I'm NOT a cheapskate and consider this cost to be cheap insurance.
In the winter time I start my car every 3-4 weeks and run it up to 30 minutes, full operating temperature to burn off any condensation.
When I have as much money into my engine as I do, I'm not about to take any chances. The thought of changing oil every other year is horrifying!
 
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