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57driver

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have any experience with getting rebuild and repair parts for the Doug Nash 4+3 transmission used in 84-88 Corvettes? It looks like a Super T-10 with an OD section added, and could be a good solution for a 4 speed with OD, if parts are available. Thanks,

Driver.
 
Driver, I looked long and hard at doing this. My big frustration was how to mount a shifter, along with a tailshaft mount. It really seems like it could be a great unit, uses a kickdown cable to engage & dis-engage. I don't think, but not positive, it actually is an overdrive, but rather a underdrive with a 1 to 1 "overdrive gear". I am still thinking about it, because I want to replace my muncie with something btter for all around cruising, been thinking 700r4, but if shifter and mount could be figured out I might just do it. My only other concern would be hp and tq ratings as my 383 makes around 470lb ft tq and 425 hp.
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
I wonder about parts

Yes, I have heard that the torque rating is rather low for the 4+3. There is one I can get for cheap that supposedly "needs a synchronizer" for first gear, which probably means that the slider teeth are torn out or the engagement teeth on the gear are toasted. I have not called him yet, and it is also missing the solenoid off the side, which I am sure means the engagement solenoid.

I am wondering if all the internal T-10 parts are reasonably standard, and available? The OD stuff I know I am taking a chance on, and will handle that as a separate issue. Could be a really fun combo for a medium horsepower small block for the future Gasser build I have in mind (not the wagon, on a new car yet to be discovered).

Bypassing all the computer stuff and engaging the OD with discreet switching should be pretty easy to figure out. This is not complex like the Space Shuttle here, its just a transmission.

Driver.
 
I always thought the 4+3 was an overdrive unit, but I could easily be wrong on that.

The main transmission part is a Super T-10, so repairing 1st gear should not be a problem.

The 4+3 has a reputation for bad reliability, and many drivers didn't like the way it shifted. It came in 80s Corvettes. You should be able to find out lots of info and opinions at corvetteforum.com.
 
4+3

Does anyone have any experience with getting rebuild and repair parts for the Doug Nash 4+3 transmission used in 84-88 Corvettes? It looks like a Super T-10 with an OD section added, and could be a good solution for a 4 speed with OD, if parts are available. Thanks,

Driver.
Call Larry Fischer 631 351 4837 and also
S & K Speed shop Brian on Long Island

Regards Gary
 
All 4+3 units have the 2.88:1 4 speed gearset. I have rebuild kits for the manual part and the automatic part but, I would not use one for a retrofit in a tri-five or any street rod. If you must have a 4+3, look for the late '86 -'88 units that had the latest upgrades compared to the early '84-'85 units
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Why not retrofit?

What are the key reasons to not retrofit one of these into an earlier style car? The four speed side of the transmission should be just as durable as any other super t10. Also, I understand that the overdrive section of the transmission is strong enough, but most of the problems were due to the calibration and usage in the original Corvette installation.

It seems like operating this transmission as a conventional overdrive in a classic car application would work quite well. My plan would be to use an RPM based transmission converter lockup controller to allow the overdrive to engage at say above 50 miles per hour. A vacuum switch or a micro switch on the carburetor could provide kick down when driving on the highway.

So I guess I am curious as to what are the fundamental fatal flaws of this unit?

Driver.
 
Here are a few bad points of the OD unit:

underengineered carrier assembly bearing; poor lube to the bearing; and bearing pre load issues.

direct clutch thrust washer breakage issue will cause the overdrive piston to jam in the case and burn up the unit. the thrust washer endures about 1100-1200 lbs of thrust load and the clutch pack needs to spin on the washer at the same time.

I stopped tinkering with these units about 20 years ago and GM was still updating parts for them in the mid 90s. Twenty years ago the OD unit going rebuild rate was about $1200.00. I see that Gary mentioned Brian (S&K Speed) as a connection, I wonder if his shop still rebuilds them? Last time I talked to Larry, he didn't touch them any longer.

Hot rodding is about trying different things but, talk to some of the Corvette guys that have these units.
 
If anyone is looking for one of these Transmission I Have one for sale 800.00 was going have to rework floor in my 55 and it was already Painted. I built a bracket to mount a 4 speed shifter to looked like it would work ok . Have New Clutch Disc I had built that goes with it.
 
If anyone is looking for one of these Transmission I Have one for sale 800.00 was going have to rework floor in my 55 and it was already Painted. I built a bracket to mount a 4 speed shifter to looked like it would work ok . Have New Clutch Disc I had built that goes with it.
I use to buy many of these 4+3 units just for the 2.88:1 ST10 gearset, then install them in a regular ST10 unit for customers. Most times the OD units were burned up and the OD case was destroyed.

What year is your 4+3, it might be a good match for "Driver" if he needs one?
 
Correction

Here are a few bad points of the OD unit:

underengineered carrier assembly bearing; poor lube to the bearing; and bearing pre load issues.

direct clutch thrust washer breakage issue will cause the overdrive piston to jam in the case and burn up the unit. the thrust washer endures about 1100-1200 lbs of thrust load and the clutch pack needs to spin on the washer at the same time.

I stopped tinkering with these units about 20 years ago and GM was still updating parts for them in the mid 90s. Twenty years ago the OD unit going rebuild rate was about $1200.00. I see that Gary mentioned Brian (S&K Speed) as a connection, I wonder if his shop still rebuilds them? Last time I talked to Larry, he didn't touch them any longer.

Hot rodding is about trying different things but, talk to some of the Corvette guys that have these units.

Hi Jody Thank you for correcting me. I was told that S & K still had some parts, I don't know if he rebuilds them or not but If I had my choice I would have you go through my 4+3. Jody I moved from the Cincinnati Ohio area to Slatinton Pa just over 5 years ago. I can tell you this that the 4+3 was not a poipular box in the Cincinnati Ohio area. I just did not see any of them cross my bench back them. I f I can ever do anything to help you please let me know.
Regards Gary
 
I use to buy many of these 4+3 units just for the 2.88:1 ST10 gearset, then install them in a regular ST10 unit for customers. Most times the OD units were burned up and the OD case was destroyed.

What year is your 4+3, it might be a good match for "Driver" if he needs one?
Not sure how to tell year model just know mid 80's if you know how to tell I will look Thanks
 
Hi Jody Thank you for correcting me. I was told that S & K still had some parts, I don't know if he rebuilds them or not but If I had my choice I would have you go through my 4+3. Jody I moved from the Cincinnati Ohio area to Slatinton Pa just over 5 years ago. I can tell you this that the 4+3 was not a poipular box in the Cincinnati Ohio area. I just did not see any of them cross my bench back them. I f I can ever do anything to help you please let me know.
Regards Gary
Gary,

Nice to meet you too, I've heard good things about you and thanks for your offer to help me and the warm welcome. I have joined this site to get some info to work on my wife's '55 as it needs some attention. I also read that you have an RS 5 speed in your girl. I never played with one of those units, how do you like it?

I have not spoken with Brian in awhile but, he was trying to retire and sell everything? My pockets are not deep enough to buy his shop or inventory!

I am only a stones throw away if I can ever help you too.

Happy shifting!
 
Discussion starter · #15 · (Edited)
Good info on weak points of the 4+3 OD unit.

Here are a few bad points of the OD unit:

underengineered carrier assembly bearing; poor lube to the bearing; and bearing pre load issues.

direct clutch thrust washer breakage issue will cause the overdrive piston to jam in the case and burn up the unit. the thrust washer endures about 1100-1200 lbs of thrust load and the clutch pack needs to spin on the washer at the same time.

I stopped tinkering with these units about 20 years ago and GM was still updating parts for them in the mid 90s. Twenty years ago the OD unit going rebuild rate was about $1200.00. I see that Gary mentioned Brian (S&K Speed) as a connection, I wonder if his shop still rebuilds them? Last time I talked to Larry, he didn't touch them any longer.

Hot rodding is about trying different things but, talk to some of the Corvette guys that have these units.
Thanks for the comprehensive reply on the achilles heels of the OD unit.

1. Re Carrier bearing: I did read that there was an updated bearing available and I think that I saw an oiling modification procedure but don't recall for sure with all of the stuff that I read last week. I don't know if preload can be corrected with assembly procedure or not, but, yes, I do remember reading that as well, now that you mention it.

2. Re direct thrust washer: I also read that there was a better hardened washer available for this thrust washer. You wonder why they did not put a torrington in this position? Do you know if the upgrade washer is a decent fix, or was it still a band aid?

I do hear all of the non-specific things you are saying though about the unit still having various problems that were never developed out of it. Sometimes a certain design is just beyond hope.

After seeing one lower quality exploded view of the OD "planet" I see that Nash used a two stage radial pinion arrangement, instead of a true planet. I don't like radial pinions as they don't balance the radial thrust loads out like a true planetary gear, and it is almost impossible to have all the pinions carry the load uniformly. Do you recall if the pinion/sun gear arrangement was fundamentally failure prone, or was that part itself pretty durable?

They guy that has this one for sale claims that the OD section was working perfectly, but the first gear in the T-10 lost it's synchronizer. When idling, the gear would just grind when he tried to shift it into first from neutral. When he started the car in gear, first gear held fine, and he could shift out of it, but not back in. That sounds like a totally smoked blocker ring, but I have never seen that before in a manual trans. Usually the slider and the slider teeth on the 1st gear get destroyed. I did rebuild (and explode) a couple of Muncies about 35 years ago, but never tore into a Super T. I have rebuilt 50+ various Hydramatics over the years, so tearing down the OD doesn't scare me at all. Would it be plausible for the ST-10 to just have a fried blocker ring, or would this likely be something more?

My plan would be for this to be behind a 300hp 327, gasser type build, street driving not planning to beat it like a dog. Yes, I like the idea of a 2.88 first gear, with a 3.42 rear gear (9.3 Olds) and a .67 Overdrive, but if it is just going to come unglued on me even with moderate driving, I am probably just beating my head on the wall considering this. Thanks for all the advice.

Driver.
 
Driver,

I use to buy all my rebuild parts from Paul as he was the most intuned guy of these 4+3 units in the late 80s. Paul sold the 4+3 business part to Brian at S&K Speeds.

I could dig out my notes for the latest updated part numbers for the OD unit if you wanted it?
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I wonder about that first gear.

Driver,

I could dig out my notes for the latest updated part numbers for the OD unit if you wanted it?
I hate to put you through that trouble during my initial examination of the practicality of this project.

In looking at my description of what the ST-10 section is doing in first gear, does it sound like it could be anything more than a blocker ring? Hopefully I would be able to determine the slider/dog/hub/synchro condition with just the side cover off.

The trans is 3 hours away from me, and I am hesitant to even go look at it if the ST-10 section is blown up.
If I do look at it, it won't be for a couple of weeks, as I doubt if there are many people as brave as me in this part of the country when it comes to buying a gearbox that could be a potential can of worms, or outright junk. The longer it sits, the more likely that the price will shrink to a risk friendly level. The price of the unit will be somewhere around $300-$400 right now. Thanks,

Driver.
 
Many inexperience builders forget to install the 1st speed gear washer on the ST10 mainshaft. This washer installs between 1st gear and the center bearing, if not installed, it will allow excessive axial 1st gear movement. The synchro would have too much clearance to do its braking action. Or, maybe the synchro is ballooned out; broken strut keys?

A quick sidecover removal will determine what is wrong with her.

That unit is well worth your posted asking price. I highly doubt it will be there months down the road at that price.
 
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