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Windshield and Back Glass R&R

168K views 124 replies 64 participants last post by  chevman57  
#1 ·
Okay, this is going to come up sooner or later so I will post it now. Guys who have never dechromed a car or replaced a windshield/backglass will find it handy.

Removal:
The windshield trim comes off as follows. Remove the wiper bezels, look under the dash at the apex of the curve on each side and you will find a nut on the inside. Should take a 3/8ths socket (deep well). Once they are off, pull outward slightly and the moulding will come out from under the corner piece near the door. You can then slide the moulding outward and off the clips. The corners are held by a small screw on the front corner (seen only after the front lower mouldings are off) and one screw on the rear of the corner which is in the door jamb. Once those two are out, pull outward slightly and down. It will slip off the upper piece. Once it is off, there will be a screw in each upper piece down at the bottom where the corner moulding covers them. The upper two halves stay in the windshield gasket when you take the glass out. The gasket has a channel that the stainless fits into.

The rear is different. On each outside upper corner you will see a small 'L' shaped piece. On the inside there is a nut on the stud on the moulding. The upper and lower pieces that run across side to side have clips on the window opening pinch weld that stick up toward the stainless trim. You have to use a reveal moulding tool. The tool has a "T" shaped end and is very thin. You put the "T" end under the trim and hold the handle at about a 45Âş angle to the stainless. Slide it along and you will feel the clips. When you get to one hold a little pressure against the clip and then move the handle of the tool toward 90Âş. The clip will release the stainless. Don't expect the stainless to just pop off. You may have to go across a couple times until they are all loose. Once the stainless is off, you can push the glass out from the inside while rolling the inner flap on the gasket down toward the glass. If your replacing the gaskets, your golden. Just take a box knife and cut the rubber flap off the inside and lift the glass out.
The windshield comes out the same way once the stainless is off.

Installation:
On the windshield the top two pieces of stainless go into the rubber seal, after the gasket is on the glass. Once the glass is pulled in and your sure it is centered in the opening, start with the bottom of the top two pieces. The ends have a hole that a screw goes thru and into the pillar. Then install the two corner pieces. They slide up onto the upper pieces and set in against the pillar. The front end of the corners have a retainer that sticks out toward the front of the car. A screw goes in each of those as well. Once that is done, you install the lower two pieces. You have to be careful and slide each lower piece onto the lower trim clips that are screwed to the cowl. Be sure you put the center joint cover on before you slide the two pieces all the way in. Each of the lower pieces have a clip right in the apex of the curve. It has a stud that goes into a hole on the cowl. Before you put it into the hole, put a piece of strip caulk around the base of the stud so when it tightens down it will seal the hole. The nut for that clip goes on from under the dash. Now as you put the lower piece in place, be sure to take your time and guide it into the end of the corner piece you installed earlier. You will have to bow the moulding just a little to get it in. When you tighten the stud clip, it will help pull the corner pieces in tight against the car.

On the back glass, first put the moulding clips on the pinch weld around the opening. The set you buy comes with I think? 12 clips? I add 4 extra. One extra on each side right in the curve on the outer end of the lower moulding and one extra on either side of center at the bottom about 3 inches from center each way. The moulding if bad about trying to rise back out in those areas. Next put the rubber on the glass and pull it in the car. By pull it in, I mean you use a piece of small cord. Lay the cord down into the channel that goes over the pinch weld. Cross the two ends in the center inside and tape them against the glass. Have someone help by putting a little presure on the outside of the glass as you pull it in.Once it's in then the stainless goes on. There are two upper outer corner pieces (small L shape with a long stud on the back side). Put the upper piece across and once you satisfied it is centered, tap on it with the heal of your hand. NO HAMMERS here ;o). Tap it down except for the last two outer clips. Then put the bottom pieces on the same way all the while being sure the lower center joint cap is in place. Again tap it down into the clips except for the last one on each side where it goes up to the roof line. Then wrap strip caulk around the stud on the corner caps. Guide the corners onto the top and lower piece while pushing the little stud into the hole in the pinch weld on each side. You may want a helper inside start the little nut on the clip while you hold in on the corner piece. Once they are tight your done. One note, don't over tighten the corners. They WILL pull in and bow up on the ends. Then you buy two more.
 
#2 ·
Wow Directions you can understand . Thumbs up Mike . thats one that will save Trifivers some real time and cut out a hole lot of cursing.:( Maybe even a few pieces of trim. :)
 
#4 ·
lower windshield moulding

Hi Mike

This is my first complete teardown and buid of a 57 210 wagon.
I wish I read this before I took my moulding off I had no clue, the bottom clips were on so good I bent the trim taking it off. I did use the clip tool but still had trouble. When putting the moulding back on are you saying I should slide the trim over the clips starting at the curved part of the window?:confused:
 
#6 ·
Lower moulding

Hi Mike

Are you camped out here.

I wish I could get answers out of my wife this quick.

The lower trim on both sides bent at the curved part of the trim I kind of kinked it.
 
#7 ·
Sorry, I was away for a few..:eek:

Lower moulding on the windshield should slide onto the clips that are held to the cowl with screws. If you have already painted the car, be very careful sliding in on. If it trys to bind and dig into the finish, back it off and take a pair of channel lock (slip joint) pliers and squeeze the clip so as to make slightly more narrow and a little taller from the surface. That will help it clear the paint. Don't go so far as to have the moulding loose or too far off the cowl. It's a 'squeeze a little' and try it proceedure.
 
#9 ·
my 56 glass

does anyone know where i can order the w/shield seal and rear glass seal from,i also need the (i believe its called lower w/shield garnish moulding)that goes on the dash below w/shield,for my 56 sedan,Thanks Greg
 
#10 ·
Greg, look in the "Trifive parts website links" forum" you will want to buy TN seals. They are a little sfter and fit better than any other I have seen.
On the garnish moulding, post a wanted ad in the free clasifieds here and someone will probably be able to help.

Mike
 
#49 ·
55 Winsheild Seal



Hello Mike:
Maybe you can answer my question.....per your comment about 150 original seals....Does no one make the seals for the 150 any more?...And...If not...does the seal that uses the trim seal off ok with out the trim installed?

Thanks for your help:)

Gary(lizard)Latham
 
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#13 ·
Thanks Mike, It looks like I have alot of work to do. I've never owned a 55 until I picked up a 4dr and a 2dr last month, I don't know anyone local that can help me with my questions. the 2dr is a basket case, but it's solid as a rock. It has a hole in the drivers rocker about the size of a silver dollar, but the floors are flawless, this is the only rust spot on the car. I have the original California pink slip and the original black plate. It will make a very nice car when it's done. I'm sure I will have alot of stupid questions for you guys!
 
#14 ·
Sounds like a great project. No question is dumb if you don't know the answer. I seems smart in my eyes to ask rather than spending a lot of time figureing something out. No point in reinventing the wheel.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the Info.

I hope that MikeKY55 gets this message...

Just wanted to say thanks for your post regarding the stainless trim (specificly the front windshield). I have a 55 210 Wagon that I am having some rust repair work done on, was going to save myself some money by removing the trim myself, but my part of the job came to a stop when I couldn't get the trim off...had the feeling I was going to start tweaking metal...so after an hour or so of trying to figure it out I stopped!

Found your post, went back out to the garage, and completed the job in less than 5 mins.

Thanks again Mike!!!

Don't really use these sites very often but now am a loyal fan of TRIFIVE.COM.

Dan Hernandez
 
#18 ·
1956 Chevy Bel Air 2 Door Hardtop

This may sound like a strange question to some but will the chrome strip from a 1956 Bel Air 4 door fit on a 1956 Bel Air 2 Door Hardtop. Are they the same as the window is a little different. Thanks.
 
#39 ·
This may sound like a strange question to some but will the chrome strip from a 1956 Bel Air 4 door fit on a 1956 Bel Air 2 Door Hardtop. Are they the same as the window is a little different. Thanks.

If they are both hardtops they will, the same goes for sedans.
 
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#21 ·
Equaltime50, from what i got out of the post about cutting windshields for chopped tops the other day, Cutting a windshield is VERY difficult. You would probably be better off buying a glass made for it. Auto City Glass in Minn. sells at swap meets and they are around 170.00.
Terry
 
#113 ·
I need to install the lower trim on a car I recently bought. How did you get from photo 4 to photo 6? What holds it in place? There has to be something more than the windshield wiper bezel.
 
#23 ·
glass

Great timming Mike just bought a new windshield and just getting ready to install. Thanks for the great info.
 
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