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Since you need

The high pressure pump I would certainly get a tank with an internal pump. I don't think there is an external pump built that would be reliable at that fuel pressure because of heat. The fuel in the tank cools the pump,
 
Walbro and Aeromotive have products for you.

Thing is, I'd question your choice of an inline pump. Far better to go in tank.

There is a new product from Holley which is a "mat" which goes in the bottom of the tank. Should help with fuel starvation problems with inline pumps. But its expense is similar to a tank with a pump in it.
 
You will need a corvette filter regulator as well. http://www.amazon.com/Wix-33737-Com...1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1421205703&sr=1-1&keywords=corvette+filter+regulator

Most pumps sold are typically 80-100psi and the reg. puts out around 58psi to the rail.

Most inline pumps work just fine. All be it noisy. Fuel starvation as long as your not beating on it under 1/4 of a tank it will be ok.

But as suggested ideally intake is best. You can get tanks with pumps ready to go.

Walbro 255.

I use Airtex 8248 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DN7VME?tag=viglink20856-20 on my personal swaps. It works pretty good but is load to most. Is affordable I care a spare with me as well. But worry to much.

Bosch 044
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Univers...=sr_1_sc_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1421205578&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=Bousch+044
 
I used an in line MSD pump and high pressure filter for my 57 truck. An in tank unit would be better I agree, but it was prohibitively expensive at the time. I may go to one later but so far mine works great. It's noisy, but it's really only noticed at startup. There is a slight hum while the truck is at idle. But my exhaust is very quiet. You can hardly hear the truck running. I plumbed the high pressure feed thru the drain at the bottom of tank to lessen the fuel starvation problem. The return line goes to the factory sender line. It all works great for my LT1 daily driver truck and was a fraction of the cost of a walbro in tank setup. Good luck whichever way you go. Jason
 
I've been running a wellbro 255 inline for 8 years and 57k miles 110 mile daily commute in Texas 106 degree heat with a stock fuel tank. It's been to 14100 feet and across the good ole USA 3 times. So sorry I don't buy into you need an internal pump. Now with that said I do carry a spare pump because people have said they want last because of heat but to date its still in the box and has never been opened. FI tanks are nice but not necessary IMO. Granted you will probably have a cleaner installation with the FI tanks if your going for show but not needed if just for go. There are probably even better inline pumps than the 255. Just my personal experience but its your $$$$ do as you wish.
Rocky
 
And the Achilles heel of fuel pump installation schemes is external mounting. Put it in the tank and the reliablilty goes up.

That and don't ever run the pump without fuel in it. (Which is part of the external pump problem.)
 
I will say yes its more reliable that way intank, but. Oems have issues with it too as people run their tanks till the light come on which is bad as it only have a couple gal to cool it then. And one reason gm we t to returnless fuel rails was to stop hot gas from engine bay making it back to the tank and heating the gas up making the issue with pump failure worse.
 
The owner of a local independent garage changes Chevrolet/GMC truck in tank pumps weekly. He tells the customer they can't run the fuel level below a half tank and expect the fuel pump to last. Pain to replace one yourself because the tank must come out. He's stated that the replacement would be far easier and less expensive if GM had put an access hole above the pump/gauge sender in the rear floor. Truly a bad design when the pump must be submersed in fuel to cool.
 
Really its below a quarter a tank or less. But what i see is people running then at 1/4 or less all the time and just adding 5-10 worth and never have a full tank as they can't afford it so fuel gets hot so does pump and it runs like that all the time amd fails. On mine i would fill it up as need and never ever just add a few gallons. Mine worked fine for years like that.

Also clogged filter will kill the pump it is anrestriction that cause backpressure which cause heat too.

But most people that fill up normally have no issues.

As far replacing the pumps on late model stuff usually you can remove the bed or tilt it up enough to remove the pump. On the suvs inwould cut an access hole in back and make a cover. Then tell owner what I was doing and tell the. It was quicker and cheaper on them as i didnt have to charge labor for pullin the tank.
 
The owner of a local independent garage changes Chevrolet/GMC truck in tank pumps weekly. He tells the customer they can't run the fuel level below a half tank and expect the fuel pump to last. Pain to replace one yourself because the tank must come out. He's stated that the replacement would be far easier and less expensive if GM had put an access hole above the pump/gauge sender in the rear floor. Truly a bad design when the pump must be submersed in fuel to cool.
And yet, it's how every modern day car is designed. I'm service manager at a large wholesale auto auction - we close 350 repair orders a week, on all makes. We see it all. Some vehicles are better than others when it comes to in-tank fuel pump reliability - GM isn't one of them. Ironically, a lot of the imports actually do have access panels - either under the back seat or in the trunk. But their pumps rarely fail...
 
I would like to run a in tank fuel pump but nobody makes an in tank for the 57 Nomad not even tanks inc
Contact Rick's Stainless Tanks.
They will custom make you one.
 
Another way to do an in tank pump on a Nomad or other wagon is to get rid of the spare tire well which may be useless (because it won't hold the tire size you're using) or it's rusted - replace it with flat sheet metal and then use a passenger car style tank.

And to those that think GM in tank pumps are not reliable - don't kid yourself - the in line pump is going to be less reliable because of the same problems, they can only be worse. The very worst of in tank pump failures is if you run out of fuel and keep trying to start the engine with a dry pump. Just don't do that and you don't need to worry about 1/2 tank or 1/4 tank. If you want to have that mentality, your inline pump installation will need a 3/4 tank level or even higher. It's all relative.
 
The owner of a local independent garage changes Chevrolet/GMC truck in tank pumps weekly. He tells the customer they can't run the fuel level below a half tank and expect the fuel pump to last. Pain to replace one yourself because the tank must come out. He's stated that the replacement would be far easier and less expensive if GM had put an access hole above the pump/gauge sender in the rear floor. Truly a bad design when the pump must be submersed in fuel to cool.
I put a trap door in the floor of my trunk it's big enough to pull the pump assy.
without dropping the tank to change the filter on the bottom of the assembly.
You can see the trap door in the arrival pictures when it got to Fuzzy's.
 
I put a trap door in the floor of my trunk it's big enough to pull the pump assy.
without dropping the tank to change the filter on the bottom of the assembly.
You can see the trap door in the arrival pictures when it got to Fuzzy's.
I did that as well with my Tanks Inc. tank.

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My interior guy built up the padding so you can't see the hump from the access hole cover:

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