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55 Tony

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🐔County, TN. 55 Bel Air Sport Coupe
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14,697 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Dang winter gas! Had a nice 70° day yesterday and went out for a cruise. Sure enough my vapor lock symptoms returned. I'll have to re-install the custom shrouds I made to divert the hot radiator air from hitting the fuel pump and other associated fuel system parts. Took the shrouds off while working on something over the winter, I'll have to work on some that look half decent.
 
have you tried a return type fuel system. this keeps the fuel moving by returning some back to the tank continuously. the constant flow keeps the lines cooler and also keeps fuel pressure more consistent. it works best with an electric fuel pump, but also works with a good mechanical pump.
 
Try wood clothes pins on fuel line after fuel pump.
Heard of this too. Wood dissipates the heat . Don't really know if it works. Some of my older friends used to do this. MIke
 
I prefer the Summit brand clothes pins - they are the very best. Won't tear up your Bangladesh shirt on the clothes line either.

You also need to buy them in matched sets.

Also, wood conducts heat best when it's on fire. Again the Summit brand is the best tinder.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I forgot again to check the notify box. Sorry I don't believe the wooden clothes pins. They wouldn't dissipate heat, they would heat up to the temp of the ambient air and make the fuel hotter. Maybe that Guy at Spectre would OK that since according to him vapor lock is good and normal.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
have you tried a return type fuel system. this keeps the fuel moving by returning some back to the tank continuously. the constant flow keeps the lines cooler and also keeps fuel pressure more consistent. it works best with an electric fuel pump, but also works with a good mechanical pump.
That sounds promising! Would I need a new fuel tank FI style, or how could I safely run a return line into the tank?
 
That sounds promising! Would I need a new fuel tank FI style, or how could I safely run a return line into the tank?
no new tank needed just plumb the return into the filler neck. -6(3/8) line from pump to holley regulator, use one outlet to the carb -6 line and the other with a 1/4" to return to the tank. holley has a return style regulator for carbs it works well. holley part number 12-803BP, this does work best with an electric pump but I have used it with mechanical as well.
 
Interesting. Most winter gas blends my way put in ethanol which has a higher octane rating that straight gas...which would lead to less knock and vaporlock regardless of temp. 70 isn't very warm.

Have you tried putting a container of "Heat" into the tank? It's basically alcohol that absorbs the water that may have built up in the tank over the winter due to heating and cooling cycles that produce condensation in the tank (i.e water). Very common in colder areas of the country in the Spring.
 
Laugh yes on me . That is whay some of my older friends did on the metal gas line coming to the carb. I used to see it on cars we bought and worked on as well. So someone used to do it. WalMart sells clothes Pins too. Mike
 
I forgot again to check the notify box. Sorry I don't believe the wooden clothes pins. They wouldn't dissipate heat, they would heat up to the temp of the ambient air and make the fuel hotter. Maybe that Guy at Spectre would OK that since according to him vapor lock is good and normal.
You probably don't believe drinking beer through a straw will make you drunk faster either! ;)
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Interesting. Most winter gas blends my way put in ethanol which has a higher octane rating that straight gas...which would lead to less knock and vaporlock regardless of temp. 70 isn't very warm.

Have you tried putting a container of "Heat" into the tank? It's basically alcohol that absorbs the water that may have built up in the tank over the winter due to heating and cooling cycles that produce condensation in the tank (i.e water). Very common in colder areas of the country in the Spring.
As far as ethanol raising octane, yes it does but in turn the gasoline contains less of the other additives that raise octane. So if you are buying 87 octane with 10% ethanol, it's still 87 octane.

No never tried a water absorber in the tank, the ethanol does too much of that already. Using E-10 gasoline has eliminated the need for Heet or other brands of moisture remover/absorber. Also my car doesn't get stored over the winter, if the roads are dry, snow and salt free I drive it. The heater kicks @$$ and the engine runs great in colder weather. I doubt it sat in the garage for a whole 2 weeks without going out for a drive.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Laugh yes on me . That is whay some of my older friends did on the metal gas line coming to the carb. I used to see it on cars we bought and worked on as well. So someone used to do it. WalMart sells clothes Pins too. Mike
I heard that the spring type clothes pins don't work, you need the old type that is 1 piece of wood.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Intereting read on Gas Line fuel vapor lock. http://forums.aaca.org/f120/vapor-lock-157015.html . I took my shirt out and used the spare clothes pins to hang it out to dry . Mike
Yep, sounds like a few people had a problem with vapor lock after forgetting to replace the heat shields. I did mention that I too had to replace the heat shields I took out over the winter.

There is only one thing I believe in that I can't explain and we are not allowed to talk about that here. OK, there is more than 1 thing, but clothespins for vapor lock ain't one of them.
 
I thought about fabricating aluminum clothe pins. They are much better heat sinks, and they won't catch fire.
I want to replace the balls of aluminum foil I have wrapped around my fuel line. I am tired of all the uninformed motor heads asking "what is that".
Aluminum clothe pins will look much more professional, especially if I polish them. :sign0020:

Oh; I almost forgot. If you use the old school wooden clothes pins, soak them overnight in water. After installation and a few miles, you can actually see the heat dissipate. :sign0020:

I'm also tossing the idea around of a straight run of bamboo line. Like along the frame rail. Someone said I could risk ice forming on the interior wall. IDK, Ill have to work on the math for that.:confused0006:

Don
 
Ha Ha ha Have some fun.To restate a thing or two The clothes pin if it did seem to work kind of would tell you or indicate that you needed to bend or reroute your fuel line. Somehow over the years it may have got to close to the exhaust maniflod / engine or somehow was getting hotter than usual. Just trying to help. It was not meant to be a PERMANENT solution or fix. I was talking with some guys this morning at coffee and one said his Dad would put aluminimum foil on the line close to the carb. Dont know but Mike and Frank cooked something on a manifold on the Antique Emporium show on tv. Maybe I could motor on down the road and cook a Hot Dog or two on the aluminum foil .LOL I saw that one coming . Well at least I am smiling still. Maybe one of you can try Limberger cheese . Mike
 
Do you have a phenolic spacer between your manifold and carb. That could very well be your problem, boiling the crappy gas in the carb.

Maybe cattle magnets around the steel fuel lines would align the gas molecules and also provide an additional heat sink to get rid of the heat.:sign0020: Those were the hot setup during the oil embargo back in the 70's.:gba::bowtier:
 
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