Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

GBP

· Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have pictures of the RainGear motor installed under the dash. I'm concerned that it will crowd the area under the dash. Frankly I won't need wipers as it won't be a daily driver, (only for weekend drives) but concerned that the roadside vehicle inspections will be implemented again and don't want to get cited for non-op wipers. Any feedback on Pro's or Con's with the Raingear system is most appreciated.
thanks guys.
 
55 pic..

Here's a shot on my 55. The position you see, is what the unit was in when I got it. You can clock the assy to different locations...


Image


Another angle...

Image
 
Here's a shot of mine from below. This is taken from about the floor level, so it really isn't this visible, but gives you an idea where it sits. As Buzz mentioned, the motor can be clocked but I didn't have room for doing it. Normally you wouldn't have any of the stuff left of my wiper motor:

Image
 
It really doesn`t take up all that much room under there. And the rods are tucked up close under the dash/cowl area so they aren`t in the way either.
Terry
 
Sorry for asking a stupid question but the point of this modification is to? clean up the firewall ?
If you are going for a 100 point stock restored car.. this system is not for you. However...

I would say, yes to clean up the firewall.. Especially in light of the clearance issues associated with pulling the distributor with a big block car or HEI. In my case, I also use an original 55 Olds/Caddy air cleaner housing (I converted to a paper filter). The original wiper motor would not allow me the clearance to do this. I've noticed as well, with modern LS motors, the entire engine sits rather low to the firewall... a stock wiper motor hanging off of a nice slick painted firewall could indicate poor planning and is (IMO) ugly.


Also this system upgrades all the other components. The old cable/transmission system is replaced solid bars that run up and tight along the backside of the defrost ducts. These rods coupled with a smooth modern wiper motor keep the wiper arms in perfect sync, and speed. I also like the upgraded switch system. I retained the original knob/bezel so the dash area looks stock but the switch I have uses an adjustable delay feature. It's very rare that I drive my car in the rain, but if "caught" in the wet-stuff this system really does a nice job.:tu
 
"the point of this modification is to? clean up the firewall ?"

Yes, but the original wipers were usually run by a vacuum motor, and that leaves a lot to be desired. Also the cable linkage wiper drive leaves a lot be desired. To rebuild everything with stock components and add a stock type electric motor is going to run you about the same $$$ as a Raingear setup, and it's functionally better.
 
I just exchanged my failing "original" wiper motor with a rebuilt from Jim's Chevrolet for $125 exchange. Knowing that I am not going to drive much in the rain and not having the big bucks for the Raingear setup I'm going to be fine with it.

Maybe I'll install it today.

Don
 
Nuff said!

Today we took my buddys stock 55 BelAir to the Pumpkin Run in NJ and the rain started about 10 miles out. The vacuum wipers left much to be desired and we even had to do a u turn to retrieve one blade that took flight on an upstroke. I now see the light. Someone either ordered or refited my 57 wagon with electric. Thanks Dave
 
Does anyone have pictures of the RainGear motor installed under the dash. I'm concerned that it will crowd the area under the dash. Frankly I won't need wipers as it won't be a daily driver, (only for weekend drives) but concerned that the roadside vehicle inspections will be implemented again and don't want to get cited for non-op wipers. Any feedback on Pro's or Con's with the Raingear system is most appreciated.
thanks guys.
I installed the Raingear wiper system 2 speed with delay in my 56 2 dr Belair HT. It works great. Having said that, there are some bits of advice.

You will have to remove the left hand dash brace--no prob. The unit fits into the space nicely. At first, it seemed too low; but it does not interfere with the clutch or your foot movements. Follow the instructions carefully about getting the pivots timed the correct way or you may scrape paint off the hood. Just leave the arms off and put a piece of tape to mark. Don't drop the nuts and spacers into the cowl drain--they will be gone forever, unless you cut the side of the cowl open.

Since I installed Vintage Air, Gen IV electronic AC, it gets crowded near the fuse terminal. I also installed The Vintage Air billet alum eyeball vents through the dash. With all that under the dash, I moved the fuse block about 1 inch with an alum bar for accessibility. The AC vent hoses take up a lot of space under the dash. They were too close to the operating rod between the two wiper pivots and had to be tied out of the way.

After installation, I had trouble turning the knob clockwise into the delay position. Didn't want to break it. Called the company and they said that the detents are very tight when new and for me to tighten the knob reasonably tight and go for it. I did and had no problem after that.


Oh yeah, you can use the original knobs or repros. The kit comes with a cover plate to cover the original wiper motor hole. I made my own cover in the form of a stainless steel Bowtie. Chuck :driver:
 
Thanks for the info Chuck. I intend on installing both Raingear wipers with delay and Vintage Air in my 55. This information may save me from some grief when I get around to the install.
 
Thanks for the info Chuck. I intend on installing both Raingear wipers with delay and Vintage Air in my 55. This information may save me from some grief when I get around to the install.
Hi mate,

A bit more info:

I installed a double layer of Dynamat on the interior side of the firewall, tunnel, hump and toe boards. I would recommend you not do this. Along with the firewall pad, it is too thick. This thickness moves the VA evaporator too far toward the dash and to the right (pass side) and requires the shifting of the old blower motor hole to the right. The unit is hard enough to get under the dash without having to shift the hole. I would use either the original (repro) fire wall pad OR one layer of Dynamat (or your favorite brand)--not both.

Caution with the expansion valve on top to the unit as you put the unit in--it is very close. If possible have an aide assist you.

The smaller (about 1/2 size) plastic glove box that comes with the unit is a challenge to install. I installed the bottom half and left the top out. Some guys cut the top in half and install it in two pieces--not difficult.

The glove box door stop lever will interfere with the vent hose going to the passenger dash vent. You can Zip tie to the other hoses to make room. I added a repro radio (AM, FM, I-pod, etc.) which crowds it a bit more.

The area around the fuse block will get crowded, especially if you install through-dash, eye-vents. That is why I shifted the fuse block 1."

The Raingear operating rod must be clear of all wires and hoses. I did this with peel-and-stick adhesive pads (1" X 1") with zip tie slots--works great.

Be sure to test the unit before installing. Make sure the pipe fittings coming from the evaporator unit are tight--do not over tighten. Use plenty of Freon lube on the O-rings. I used a piece of closed-cell hard foam between the 4 pipes to keep them from moving and loosening.

Patience, patience and more patience is the key. It goes better with a few Fosters. The COLD air is worth the bit of effort. If you need an more info, be glad to help. Chuck :driver:
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts