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No other then, you get what you pay for. There are so many questions on the forum about fuel senders that if I were to do it again I would spend the most I could to hopefully get a good one.

You also have to get the proper fuel line outlet size for your car and correct ohm reading as well. I just looked in the Danchuk catalog and they have stock as well as after market fuel gauge senders.

Mine is 8-10 years old and it is very inconsistent(+ or - 4 gallons) so I just keep track in a book of when I buy gas. I don't remember where mine came from but I bought the tank from Autocityclassics and I might have bought the sender there also and I did change the float to a Ford brass float because at that time the float that came with the sender was known to be of questionable quality.

I am sure others with a more recent history will chime in.:bowtier:

PS don't forget to order the cork composite gasket if its not included and clutch head screws with copper crush washers or you will get leaks.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks,

Went down there today and they answered my question..... the lower cost unit is made off shore and the thinking is that it should work just fine.... The other unit (more costly) is a US made part.... both are 0-30 ohm...

I opted to pay the extra... I'm no longer convinced that US made is better but I'm hoping I have a better shot at success.....

Yes.... two cork gaskets (in case the first one leaks) and a set of new screws with the copper washers.........

I did notice small bumps in between the screw holes on the tank so the mating surface of the tank is not flat.... I'll be sanding those down for a flat surface... anyone else ever notice that on their tank?

I will also be adding a ground wire from one of the screws to the frame....
 
I don't know what to say about the bumps since my neighbor mechanic did my install. I'd wait for someone else to weigh in on them.:bowtier:
 
Thanks,

Went down there today and they answered my question..... the lower cost unit is made off shore and the thinking is that it should work just fine.... The other unit (more costly) is a US made part.... both are 0-30 ohm...

I will also be adding a ground wire from one of the screws to the frame....
Do you happen to have a multi meter to check the resistance? They normally run about 40 ohms but of course danchuk says they have never run into that before... every day they say that!

If you run a ground to the frame it isn't any good unless you ground the frame to the battery. Or run your ground from the unit to the body, if wired properly that is grounded and the frame gets grounded hit or miss over the bumps.
 
The bumps are there to line up the sending unit correctly. Personally, I wouldn't grind them off. I bought the Danchuck, cork gasket, etc, and put a f**d float on it. Leaked a little, then I went back and tightened just a little more, no leaks, works accurately.
 
One of the biggest problem with the better and best units is where they solder the tube to the mounting plate. Sometimes they leak from the start. Other times all it takes is a little pressure on it and the solder cracks loose. On the third one I just took time to add a little more solder to it before installing it.

Too much gasket will squish out and leak anyway. The problem comes when you tighten the screws too much and it distorts the gasket, rubber or cork.

While you have it off, run a tap into the holes. It might save you a lot of frustration later. You might get them all in if you are lucky. Most times there will be one or two you would swear are cross threaded.

I didn't realize the bumps were there to line things up. I always figured they were there to help hold the gasket from getting displaced a little when tightening.
 
I always coat the cork gasket with a little Permatex #2 gasket sealer as well, assures no leaks.
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
Success!

New sending unit installed with new cork gasket, new screws/copper washers....

Also installed a ground wire from the corner of the tank to one of the tank body holding straps that are welded to the body....

Full tank of gas and no leaks and gauge is working.......

Oddly enough the new sender was making contact at the fuel fitting and was resting against the tank strap once installed.... I had to do some body work to the strap to get them separated......

Glad to check this issue of the "Annoying" list.....

Thanks for all the helpful tips...
 
Success!

New sending unit installed with new cork gasket, new screws/copper washers....

Also installed a ground wire from the corner of the tank to one of the tank body holding straps that are welded to the body....

Full tank of gas and no leaks and gauge is working.......

Oddly enough the new sender was making contact at the fuel fitting and was resting against the tank strap once installed.... I had to do some body work to the strap to get them separated......

Glad to check this issue of the "Annoying" list.....

Thanks for all the helpful tips...
Sorry I have not been on the site in a while ....I went with the "best" as well and the install was a PITA but is now done and the gauge is working as it should.

The next time I do a sender (when I install a bigger motor 400+ cu in) I will install a new sender and run AN line up.
 
I think he is talking about running braided steel line from the tank to the engine with AN fittings.
The one thing that was not mentions is the crappy floats all new sending units come with. Ford has a float that seems to be bulletproof and fits the chevy sending unit. it is Ford part # COAZ-9202-B.
 
I think he is talking about running braided steel line from the tank to the engine with AN fittings.
The one thing that was not mentions is the crappy floats all new sending units come with. Ford has a float that seems to be bulletproof and fits the chevy sending unit. it is Ford part # COAZ-9202-B.
Agree 100%---milton:)
 
I think he is talking about running braided steel line from the tank to the engine with AN fittings.
The one thing that was not mentions is the crappy floats all new sending units come with. Ford has a float that seems to be bulletproof and fits the chevy sending unit. it is Ford part # COAZ-9202-B.
Do you have to go to a ford dealer to get that float? I would imagine any aftermarket ones could be just as bad as the ones that rot out now?
 
They wouldn't shoot you if you go to a Ford dealer:sign0020: Maybe Rockauto but I bought mine at a dealer I worked at. I didn't sell Fords but just provided the financing and paperwork.

For some reason the package had 2 floats in it so I sold the extra to someone on CT forum.:bowtier:
 
They wouldn't shoot you if you go to a Ford dealer:sign0020: Maybe Rockauto but I bought mine at a dealer I worked at. I didn't sell Fords but just provided the financing and paperwork.

For some reason the package had 2 floats in it so I sold the extra to someone on CT forum.:bowtier:
The plastic float I believe is from a jeep approx. 1955 to 1980
 
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