Anyone flux weld 140a suspension brackets on a assembled Chevy rear end? I know tig is best but wanna know if flux is just as good. The idea of welding is good penetration and heat, and we're talking about 1/8 steel. Any real life experience over opinion.
Welding on axle
Omarsvette
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You talking stick or cored wire?
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7018 stick would lay a great weld , but the 1" welding at a time and restart at the same spot will be difficult but not impossible..... need to allow cool for warpage reasoning behind 1" weld at a time.
My experience with flux core wire is that the slag is a pita to get clean without a wire wheel and even then it doesn't turn out like mig with gas. Plus getting wire wheel into tight quarters will use up all obscenities you have available.
My experience with flux core wire is that the slag is a pita to get clean without a wire wheel and even then it doesn't turn out like mig with gas. Plus getting wire wheel into tight quarters will use up all obscenities you have available.
flux core wire feed welding is for fence and farm work it has no place on a car chassis or anywhere else for that matter. also with a 110v welder you probably do not have the power to make proper penetration.
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Flux cored Lincoln 140, according to Lincoln it's capable of more than 1/8 welding with flux core.
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I like a Lincoln. They seem to be more friendly during initial spark to weld. Having said that, my question is what exact piece will you be joining to the housing. Structural? Or, will it just be a non-stressed item i.e. brake line tabs or other similar items.
I can't vouch for the "Farm" notion but if you weld similar test parts and cut them apart to determine penetration at the weld root and find it doing the job then I really see no real issue. BUT, make certain by testing your skills and test welds. Functionally, if all is equal you should be good to go (that's a comparison check).
Slag, sucks regardless of any mechanically shielded welding process to include submerged arc as used in crankshaft repair. Proper methodology/process will create good welds regardless of type. Weld within the capabilities of the equipment and oneself and life is good.
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I think a 140 amp 120v. has enough amperage to do the job, but I'd still hate to do it with flux core. I fought mine for a couple years getting crappy welds, and finally gave it to my son in law (sorry) and bought my Millermatic 140. Mig solid core with gas is so much easier to get nice welds with! And I can't turn the amperage all the way up with my 140 on an axle tube or chance burning through the tube! So it's plenty for that type of thin material.
I'm with 1971BB427 on this.
The 140A welder should have enough power if it's mig. Which will be a far better weld and not so much of a mess. No BBs or spitting and popping.
Of course an old tombstone stick welder would do it, but it has a lot more power.
You can convert a flux core welder to gas, but by the time you buy the bottle it will be more than you paid for the cheap welder.
The comment about welding one inch, waiting, then welding another inch is not really going to help. It doesn't matter how fast you apply the heat - shrinkage and warpage will be the same if you have the same penetration on the weld. The best way is to weld it out and measure camber and toe in (the warpage). Then apply heat to the side opposite the weld to straighten. It's also why you shouldn't cut old pieces from an axle housing with a torch, better to do it with something that doesn't make as much heat, like a cutoff wheel, saw, or a combination of the two.
The 140A welder should have enough power if it's mig. Which will be a far better weld and not so much of a mess. No BBs or spitting and popping.
Of course an old tombstone stick welder would do it, but it has a lot more power.
You can convert a flux core welder to gas, but by the time you buy the bottle it will be more than you paid for the cheap welder.
The comment about welding one inch, waiting, then welding another inch is not really going to help. It doesn't matter how fast you apply the heat - shrinkage and warpage will be the same if you have the same penetration on the weld. The best way is to weld it out and measure camber and toe in (the warpage). Then apply heat to the side opposite the weld to straighten. It's also why you shouldn't cut old pieces from an axle housing with a torch, better to do it with something that doesn't make as much heat, like a cutoff wheel, saw, or a combination of the two.
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I will be welding ladder bar brackets to the axle tubes. Tube on Chevy rear ends are mild steel right? My experience is mainly with flux core welding, don't know why but it's easier for me. I have played with gas on sheet metal, but I go back to what I know best.
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I have done it with a miller 120V not flux core, but gas and .015 wire.
.030 wire will not work well because you will not be able to get enough heat. Either way the results can be substandard...
I had better results when I preheated the housing and the brackets just before weld. Have someone else do it if all you have is flux core wire.
Don
.030 wire will not work well because you will not be able to get enough heat. Either way the results can be substandard...
I had better results when I preheated the housing and the brackets just before weld. Have someone else do it if all you have is flux core wire.
Don
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Flux Core
I've welded on Shock Brackets on the Steel Tub Axle from Speedway Motors. The Shock Mounts were 1/4 and I used Flux Core inside (no Wind), and had decent looking welds with great penetration. I have also welded on Replacement body Panels (new rear Quarters) using Flux Core (Is all I had. Yes I had to get rid of some slag...but it worked good for me. I think it would do the job. IMHO of course.
Yes Mig would be better..But if its all you have..it will work!
I've welded on Shock Brackets on the Steel Tub Axle from Speedway Motors. The Shock Mounts were 1/4 and I used Flux Core inside (no Wind), and had decent looking welds with great penetration. I have also welded on Replacement body Panels (new rear Quarters) using Flux Core (Is all I had. Yes I had to get rid of some slag...but it worked good for me. I think it would do the job. IMHO of course.
Yes Mig would be better..But if its all you have..it will work!
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Never use flux core on body panels!!!
Unfortunately I found this out the hard way years ago, as it cost me my paint job! I welded in a patch panel using a cheap flux core welder I had then. All went well, and got a good solid repair. I ground it smooth an filled the repair before sending the car off for a complete paint job. A couple years later the repair began to bubble all along my weld for the patch panel! Took it back to the paint shop and he said the flux core was causing a reaction and would have to be cut out.
Once they finished removing the patch panel, welding in a new panel and blending in the paint, I had a $700 bill to pay for my stupid mistake.
Unfortunately I found this out the hard way years ago, as it cost me my paint job! I welded in a patch panel using a cheap flux core welder I had then. All went well, and got a good solid repair. I ground it smooth an filled the repair before sending the car off for a complete paint job. A couple years later the repair began to bubble all along my weld for the patch panel! Took it back to the paint shop and he said the flux core was causing a reaction and would have to be cut out.
Once they finished removing the patch panel, welding in a new panel and blending in the paint, I had a $700 bill to pay for my stupid mistake.
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I have been building cars for 30 years and a 140a welder is good up to 1/4 inch steel no matter if it is frame work or body work. Just make sure you get good penetration and you are good to go.
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I'm in the process of building a narrowed 8.8. I'm doing the axle swap which is popular on these axles so I only need to shorten the drivers side. The 8.8's are 1/4. I have an old marquette 155a / 230v with gas that works well. Some say you need a 250a for 1/4 axle. I'm comfortable with the job my 155 does on 1/4. I plan to champers the ends for good penetration and considering sleeve 3" each side with plug welds. I'd be interested in input from others regarding necessity of 250a on an axle and also using a sleeve.
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Thanks fellas, I over think things and need confirmation or a "no that's wrong"
Also I mount my bars by positioning the lower bar parallel to the floor and I run no preload.
Also I mount my bars by positioning the lower bar parallel to the floor and I run no preload.
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The 8.8" ford axle is nowhere near 1/4" thick! They are well known for their thin axle tubes and easy to burn through! I've used them often, and when welding most bracketry on an 8.8" axle housing I have to be very careful to concentrate heat towards the brackets and not as much on the tube!
If I was guessing, I'd say the tubes are maybe 1/8" thick.
I've seen data suggesting they are 1/4" tubes, but uncertain where that came from, as having cut them, I've sure not seen it on any 4x4 Explorer or Ranger axles.
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If those tubes are 1/8", then I'm in good shape because I know my 155a is more than adequate for that job. I haven't cut them yet so I can't confirm. I'm just going off of information I've read and pictures.
I have cut Dana, 10/12 Bolt, 8 3/4 Mopar and even 9 inch junk and cannot believe any rear axle tube is less than 1/4. A tube of .125 is ridiculous and even Ford would not do that.
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Most if not all at closer to 3/16" (.1875). I have some old 9" sections (I'm a hoarder) that measure closer to .190 but it's been a while since I measured them. The last Dana 60 I did, 3" OD and 3/16" wall.
Never in my years of cutting and shortening any housing to include Olds, Poncho, Chevy (10 & 12) and most Ford housings have I ever seen an 1/8" WALL.
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