A few quick questions re the control arms bushings and crossshaft, first are the cross shafts the same left to right, just orientation, I am pretty sure the uppers are and lowers I know they need to oriented with the longer end to front but otherwise are the same, i.e will right work on left and left work on right. also is it best to get the crossshaft turning in the old bushing before trying to remove, I have this lower arm soaking in PB Blaster but it has yet to move. I have built spacers and tools out of inch and a half black pipe look very similar to tools recommended in an earlier thread as well as what is referenced in the repair manual. There seem to be as many suggestions to remove as there are ideas from the wife when I ask, do you need anything done? I would prefer to stay away from heating and cutting if possible. Recommendations, especially on getting the shaft to move in the bushing before I attempt to press out.
control arm bushings removal
boybowser
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I think the problem you see, with the flange of the outer sleeve not seating against the surface of the control arm, is caused by the bushing not being assembled as intended (by the bushing mfr, not you). The inner sleeve should bottom out on the shoulder on the shaft about the same time as the flange on the outer sleeve bottoms out on the control arm.
I think you could still press the outer sleeve on further - unless it's such a loose fit in the control arm that it won't stay (which you may have alluded to in your description).
Perhaps someone who has done a lot more of these than I could comment about negative consequences of going ahead and running like that - I think you could. I.e., put it together the way it is, and tighten the end bolts as you normally would.
I think you could still press the outer sleeve on further - unless it's such a loose fit in the control arm that it won't stay (which you may have alluded to in your description).
Perhaps someone who has done a lot more of these than I could comment about negative consequences of going ahead and running like that - I think you could. I.e., put it together the way it is, and tighten the end bolts as you normally would.
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That is why I asked about moog vs delco, I normally use moog parts but these delco bushings were a bit cheaper making me wonder if may have changed something so they no longer fit as original, Imay just go ahead and purchase a set of Moog bushings, again I have three control arms demonstrating this phenomena so I am beginning to suspect the bushings but would like to know if anyone out there has more experience with this scenario.
I'm not too far off the 2nd I 40 Newport exit heading toward Cosby. As far as a decent metal guy, I wish I could say I'm good, and I wish I could say I'm decent, but in all reality I'm half a$sed. I did do some pretty major (to me) sheet metal work to my car recently and it did turn out nice in the end, but I really would not like to weld on someone else's car. There are too many burn through's, then fixing them and things like that. I did do really good as far as not warping things, that's all I can say good about my welding. A grinder is my friend.
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I am at exit 417 92 n to jeff city right at mcdonalds and about 5 minutes around the corner. yeah that's my welding techniques as well debating weather to replace the tailpan right now, its not to bad but the bumper is off so if I am going to replace this is probably the time, need to get together sometime and exchange notes, always something with these cars.
Hey tell me, in the middle of town, did they build a new bridge over the lake or just rebuild the old one? I hardly get through there but did the other month.
I'm better for diagnosing no starts, hard starts, transmission and engine swaps, or smaller mechanical stuff like brakes and things. The bodywork I did recently I still haven't had time to finish but I'm certain it will look good in the end, I just spend 5x more hours on it than someone who is semi good at it.
If you have a mig I can certainly give what help I can give with the tailpan. I just wouldn't want to jump in there and take over on someone elses car. You do know that there are a bunch of pieces that go under there right. Mine is in need of about 7 or so parts, it's real sad. I have a mig but for some reason it works better with flux core wire than with gas.
I'm better for diagnosing no starts, hard starts, transmission and engine swaps, or smaller mechanical stuff like brakes and things. The bodywork I did recently I still haven't had time to finish but I'm certain it will look good in the end, I just spend 5x more hours on it than someone who is semi good at it.
If you have a mig I can certainly give what help I can give with the tailpan. I just wouldn't want to jump in there and take over on someone elses car. You do know that there are a bunch of pieces that go under there right. Mine is in need of about 7 or so parts, it's real sad. I have a mig but for some reason it works better with flux core wire than with gas.
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1,418 Posts
As for the bridge I think they basically built a new one. I have an eastwood MIG that works pretty well with gas, Yea I am aware of a brace under it that should probably also be replaced, working on front end and metal right now so it will be a while before I get back to the tail end, got some wiring issues back there as well. let me know next time you in area I am usually around. will send a PM with my contact info.
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