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Help Building an Engine Rebuild Checklist: 1955 265 V8

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1955 265 engine checklist engine rebuild
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Discussion starter · #22 ·
vich57 said:
You can use a cylinder bore gauge, or any micrometer or gauge that can measure internal widths of 3.5 to 4 inches.
Easiest would be a dial indicator. Amazon has one for $46. Cheaper ones might only be accurate to .01" -- which isn't good enough, IMHO.
If you have any detectable ridge where the rings stopped their travel at the top of the cylinders, and if you're not boring the cylinders, you'll need a ridge cutter.
Here's one for $63: Lisle LIS36500 2-11/16" to 5-5/16" Cylinder Ridge Reamer
It can add up quickly. My father-in-law used to smuggle plumbing parts from West to East Germany, to help out a friend's family.
Even parts that were available there were very pricey.
Click to expand...
So if I get both of these tools, I likely won't have to take it to a machine shop due to the cylinders?
 
#23 ·
colbygardner said:
So if I get both of these tools, I likely won't have to take it to a machine shop due to the cylinders?
Click to expand...
No - it simply means you can get the pistons out through the top of the block and measure the wear (and overbore, if not standard). If it's worn sufficiently, you'll need to have it bored to the next size.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
stoveboltgeek said:
No - it simply means you can get the pistons out through the top of the block and measure the wear (and overbore, if not standard). If it's worn sufficiently, you'll need to have it bored to the next size.
Click to expand...
Ahh, so the dial indicator is to measure for proper cylinder size and the ridge reamer simply helps you get the pistons out of there is a lip and they are stuck? Sorry for all of the questions, it's how I learn best.
 
#25 ·
colbygardner said:
So if I get both of these tools, I likely won't have to take it to a machine shop due to the cylinders?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure. If there's much of a ridge, you may need a ridge cutter before you can get the pistons out.
If you have the cylinder gauge, you may be able to rotate the crankshaft to get each piston at its lowest point, to get a good idea of how much wear each cylinder has.
You may need to get the pistons out to get good measurements. At least get the heads off, so you can see how bad things are before buying tools you won't use.
If there's not too much wear (taper & ridge or out of round), you may be able to hone the cylinders yourself so the new rings will seat properly during the break-in period.
Internet sources say that .002" to .005" taper might be OK to hone and re-use the pistons. Out of round limits might be even less.
I'm sure there are many budget conscious engine builders that have gotten by with more than what's recommended.
A cylinder hone/deglazer is another tool you may need... I prefer the ones with three stones that use adjustable spring pressure. $20 to $200

Watch for pinched ring grooves if you're reusing pistons that may have been overheated. Use an old ring broken in half to clean out the grooves and check for clearance.
Use a few inches of rubber gas line on each rod bolt when removing the pistons to avoid dinging the crankshaft rod journals and cylinder walls.
When reassembling crank bearing caps and rod caps, use plastigauge to verify the bearing clearance. At least that's not expensive. <$10

Genuine Plastigauge - How It Works

Plastigauge how it works for measuring the clearance of a wide variety of bearings and cylinder heads.
www.plastigaugeusa.com
 
#28 ·
I don't have the experience or knowledge of the others who are helping here, but I've assembled engines from the short block phase of the build
I would suggest-if you have not already- find an engine stand, borrow or buy one
locate a copy of "How to rebuild your small block chevy" ( Link to amazon below)
I think everyone would agree- cleanliness is next to godliness- prepare a place where you can organize all the parts, and keep everything very clean.
I'm following this thread, as I find it interesting. Good luck on your rebuild!!!


(How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Chevy: Vizard, David: 0075478010295: Amazon.com: Books)
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Rick_L said:
Same goes for the main bearing caps.

OP needs to get a couple of books on rebuilding engines and learn what's done and what to check.
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Yes sir. Is there one that you highly recommend? I haven't done a full rebuild by myself. I had only done them with my grandpa in the past and I was 10-15 years old (that's how I got into mechanics). I have only partially rebuild engines by myself.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Rick_L said:
If I was thinking of rebuilding a 265 in Cuba, I'd be worrying about where to get good machine work done. Boring, honing, valve guides and seats, etc.

Back to the list, not all the items you list are typically needed. They would only be required if missing or are damaged.
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I just heard back from a friend of mine and since I am an honorary member of the A lo Cubano car club, that gets me access to a few machine shops in Havana. I knew that he just had his V8 rebuilt, so I figured I would ask him, and it turned out! This is exciting because that means I won't have to risk anything. Hopefully we can get it all disassembled soon and take it to them!
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
colbygardner said:
Good day, gents!

I am getting ready to rebuild my 1955 265 V8 and I want to build a checklist of all parts necessary for the rebuild. Can you experts help me confirm all that I need so that I am not missing anything when I travel with the goods overseas?

This is what I have so far for all things needed to rebuild the 1955 265 V8:
  • Freeze Plugs
  • Head Bolts
  • Intake Gasket Set
  • Exhaust Gaskets
  • Head Gaskets
  • Pistons
  • Rings
  • Rods
  • Rod Bearings
  • Push Rods
  • Cam Bearings
  • Main Bearings
  • Valve Springs
  • Valve Guides
  • Rocker Arms
  • Oil Pump
  • RTV Sealants (I have black, blue, and red)
  • Rear Main Seal (what part number for the rubber/non-rope style?)
  • Timing Cover Gasket Set
  • Water Pump Gaskets
  • Camshaft Seal
  • Harmonic Balancer Sleeve
  • Pilot Bearing
  • Oil Pressure Switch
  • Electronic Temperature Gauge (I have a 1956 intake)
  • Lubricants (what kind?)
  • Blue Loctite
  • Red Loctite
  • Oil Pan Gasket (1955 has One-Year-Only Gasket): OS5197C-3 (correct?)
  • Torque Specs
  • Torque Wrench
Feel free to add anything that is missing or add anything that has been useful for you in the past when rebuilding in your garage.

And if you know of any of the 1955 part numbers (like the rubber rear main seal), feel free to comment them below.
Click to expand...
I'm preparing to order some things today with a few other parts (new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, starter, etc) and I am wondering if y'all can help me on which items I can go ahead and order today (before disassembly of the engine)?
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Tropturq said:
The 1955 and 1956 blocks used a pulsed oiling system and require some special parts for an engine rebuild. The oiling system was changed in 1957 to a full time oiling system. Some 1957 and later parts are not compatible with 1955 and 1956 265 blocks. Many vendors falsely (unknowingly) advertise parts being for 1955-1957 and later blocks as being the same, they are not. It is hard these days to assemble all of the correct 1955 and 1956 specific parts needed for an engine rebuild. These include the notched camshaft, special low flow lifters, rear of block cam cover freeze plug, and the rear-most cam bearing, and probably some more parts that I can't remember. There are several old threads on this site explaining the differences. If you are going to undertake this project, you will need to thoroughly educate yourself on the idiosyncrasies of the 1955 and 1956 265 engines, or you will have a disaster.

It is very easy to modify the blocks of 1955 and 1956 Chevrolets so that they have full time oiling systems like the 1957 and later small blocks. This requires some minimal machine work to mill a slot between the two oiling holes in the rear-most camshaft journal on the block. If this is done, then 1957 and later parts will all work for the engine rebuild, except for the rear of the block camshaft freeze plug, which is special and less thick on stock 1955 and 1956 small blocks. This is the route that I recommend you take if you are serious about a rebuild.

If it is at all feasible, and I know the car is located in Cuba, a GM Goodwrench long block engine would be a much easier and cheaper solution to your problem.

Steve
Click to expand...
Steve, can you help me determine which set of freeze plugs I need for my block?

AutoZone has two (I use them because I have a commercial account with them) that they say fit.

Which one is the one I will need? 557-001 or 567-001

Thank you!
 
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