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Discussion starter · #101 ·
I drew a crude drawing to try and show the threading and how it will work. Folks familiar with sewing will already know all about this, I suppose. But I had to figure it out. The black line in this image represents both vinyl flaps.
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When it's sewn in this manner and the thread pulled tight the end result will look like this,



Now the portion of this vinyl covering the bracket will need to be sewn a bit different because, unless you're He-Man, pushing that needle through the bracket isn't happening. These images show how I ran the thread for one side of the bracket. The black line represents one of the vinyl flaps.
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I ran the thread on both sides of the left and right side of the bracket then returned to the previous method once I was past the bracket. The first sewing process I described used at each end is enough to make everything look right. One detail I either failed to note or wasn't mentioned in the referenced TriFive thread is to cut the vinyl and glue the rubber 'button' such that the entire portion of the 'button' that is round will be covered by the vinyl. I hope this along with the referenced TriFive thread are helpful to others who may come along in the future.
 
Discussion starter · #102 ·
Dad came over Saturday and we pulled the Daryl's hood from its storage location in my trailer. Something didn't look right when I dropped the rear trailer door, though. One of the assembled doors for my next project, '53 Chevy 3100, that had previously been leaned against the trailer wall opposite Daryl's hood was no laying on the floor. It had sat there for years, but I guess a recent storm rocked the trailer enough to knock the door over. So, I picked it up and returned it to its resting place with a bit more lean than before.

While cleaning the hood I was taking note of the dents and what it might take to fix them when the time comes for paint. This is when I noticed something not right with the center of the hood. With some additional help from my wife we bolted the hood onto Daryl, first time this car has had a hood on it since starting this project. It lines up horribly, though. I can't imagine what it's going to take for this to line up properly and I'm not looking forward to lining things up when there's shiny new paint on the fenders. A bit of forceful coercion will get the hood to close for now despite the pesky passenger fender.

Sitting inside the car admiring the hood in place revealed a more clear story of what happened when that door fell in the trailer. It appears as though the door made contact with the hood and did quite a number to it. Not sure how this will get fixed yet. It looks dented from the rear brace to the front brace.

 
Discussion starter · #103 ·
Daryl finally received insurance yesterday and today a vintage 1956 license plate was registered for it. Still needs to visit an alignment shop, install a manual choke cable, and work on the tune. Last time I drove it the engine had some run-on for a few seconds. The hood doesn't line up very well and I'm thinking the radiator support may need to be loosened and moved over to what extent possible. Having largely sat out of site and out of mind as of late now that the car is legal to drive it should be easier for me to focus on the little issues it has. Looking forward to cruising it on down to Bowling Green in August.
 
Dad came over Saturday and we pulled the Daryl's hood from its storage location in my trailer. Something didn't look right when I dropped the rear trailer door, though. One of the assembled doors for my next project, '53 Chevy 3100, that had previously been leaned against the trailer wall opposite Daryl's hood was no laying on the floor. It had sat there for years, but I guess a recent storm rocked the trailer enough to knock the door over. So, I picked it up and returned it to its resting place with a bit more lean than before.

While cleaning the hood I was taking note of the dents and what it might take to fix them when the time comes for paint. This is when I noticed something not right with the center of the hood. With some additional help from my wife we bolted the hood onto Daryl, first time this car has had a hood on it since starting this project. It lines up horribly, though. I can't imagine what it's going to take for this to line up properly and I'm not looking forward to lining things up when there's shiny new paint on the fenders. A bit of forceful coercion will get the hood to close for now despite the pesky passenger fender.

Sitting inside the car admiring the hood in place revealed a more clear story of what happened when that door fell in the trailer. It appears as though the door made contact with the hood and did quite a number to it. Not sure how this will get fixed yet. It looks dented from the rear brace to the front brace.

View attachment 443715
That is a serious wooop from the door. Looks like it hit the hood tight on the center crease. You can see where the hood skin was compressed
quite a bit, so much so that the rear underneath brace left an impression when it decided to not move as much. This is going to take some
significant amount of persuasion to get it back to normal. That door weight and the fall made a definite impact.

Mikey
 
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Discussion starter · #106 ·
That is a serious wooop from the door. Looks like it hit the hood tight on the center crease. You can see where the hood skin was compressed
quite a bit, so much so that the rear underneath brace left an impression when it decided to not move as much. This is going to take some
significant amount of persuasion to get it back to normal. That door weight and the fall made a definite impact.

Mikey
This is definitely not what I wanted to hear. The hood was perfect aside from a couple dings. Well, I'm not planning paint until the end of this year so we'll roll on as is for now and deal with this at that time.
 
Discussion starter · #108 ·
I've got about 165 miles on Daryl now. Been to a couple cars and coffees and just using it as a car in fair weather.

Only one time, though, had I filled the fuel tank past half and a small fuel leak occurred. I suspected the fuel sender screws were not secure. So, last night after work I went out to the shop and tightened those screws then headed for the filling station. Ten gallons and down the road I went, headed to meet some friends at a local tavern for burgers. I get about two miles down the road and the thing bucked like a bull out of the chute, died, and left me to push it off the road. Fortunately, it rolls super easy and it wasn't long before I was able to round a corner, hop in, and ride it down the hill right into a library parking lot. Before I was able to get out a good samaritan pulled up and stuck around while I ran through some trouble shooting in my mind.

The next five hours was that feller giving me a ride home to grab my pickup so I could head over to the next town where the trailer I was borrowing from a buddy was located. My buddy met me at the car to help load it, take it home, and unload it. He was at the tavern enjoying a burger while I went out to grab his trailer. Checked for spark at the plug after getting it pushed into my workshop and there wasn't any. Not certain yet, but thinking the HEI module failed. I'm returning a trailer this afternoon...buddy didn't want to mess with it last night. Then taking my oldest daughter and her family out for dinner to celebrate her birthday.

So, Daryl will wait...
 
Discussion starter · #111 ·
My guess? Electrical.
That's where my mind is on this issue right now. I'll start at the BATT wire to the HEI and go from there. Planning to do that after work today. Usually, it's the ignition module in the HEI that goes bad. I think I have one hanging in garage still in its packaging that I'll use. If not, a quick trip to O'Reilly's should net me one.
 
Discussion starter · #112 ·
Went out yesterday to get Daryl running again. Checked voltage at the BATT wire to the HEI and found 12V. Removed cap and disassembled it. The coil tested good at 0 ohms. I checked every wire for continuity and even checked that the housing was well grounded. Everything pointed to the ignition module in the HEI. I had one of those hanging in my garage so I grabbed it and went to install it when I noticed the 'little' wire was not in the plug that the ignition module plugs into. This had me thinking that the wire had come loose so I reassembled everything and the car did not start. Next, was to swap out that ignition module and WHOOOM!!!...back to life.

One thing I noticed, though, was that the coil was warm. I had the key on for a couple minutes to test the BATT wire and by the time I had the cap on the workbench and the coil removed it was warm. Hmmm, I don't think the coil should be warm to the touch from being energized for such short a time. Then I remembered that ignition modules do not typically go bad unless the coil is overloaded or otherwise malfunctioning. The coil was a cheap, no-name unit so I ordered a new MSD unit today. Also ordered an ignition module to pack away for spare parts on my drive to BG.
 
Discussion starter · #113 ·
My timing isn't quite right now. I messed with it when initially diagnosing the problem Wednesday night. I put my timing light on there then realized I have no timing tab. I previously had set the timing so the 12° mark was 'about' where a timing tab pointer would be. Logged 166 miles that way. For now, the timing is set with a bit more advance. I hopped in to drop it in gear and give it a rev and the tire spun from the little rev. Oooohhhh baby, the torques is with us! I'm fearful if I have too much fun that stock built rear end will let go. Going to have to upgrade that one day.

I ordered a NOS timing tab for a 7-inch BBC balancer today.
 
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