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Discussion starter · #147 ·
Body work continues. But we can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Outside is just about ready for final primer. So, work has turned to the dash and garnish trim. The car continues to show the sins of previous owners. The garnish trim is rusted under the paint. But the dash is in primer. It will painted black with a matte clear.

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#148 ·
Just my OP. That is what happens when wet sanding is done and the metal has not been sealed. I see it all the time........the oxidation
is to uniform to be anything else but it being left outside after being stripped.

I ONLY WET SAND TO REMOVE ORANGE PEEL FROM COLOR COATS.

Mikey
 
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Discussion starter · #149 ·
55wagoncrazy said:
Just my OP. That is what happens when wet sanding is done and the metal has not been sealed. I see it all the time........the oxidation
is to uniform to be anything else but it being left outside after being stripped.

I ONLY WET SAND TO REMOVE ORANGE PEEL FROM COLOR COATS.

Mikey
Click to expand...
Like I said, this car is giving up the sins of previous owners. These pieces will be sandblasted and sealed. My paint guys says they looked like they had been painted by rattle can.
 
#150 ·
I knew a shop that didn't use primer on a lot of parts that GM just painted........He didn't understand they did so to save money, and the materials
they used had things in them that are now known to be hazardous to us......like high lead content and asbestos........I couldn't change his mind....and
his cars lasted a few years and then started showing the sins of his workmanship. I had to redo a lot of his work for his unhappy customers.

Mikey
 
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Discussion starter · #151 ·
Finding more issues on a larger scale. When block sanding the right rear quarter panel, they found some lifting of the paint. They ended up removing old filler with a putty knife. Years ago, filler was used over surface rust. Both quarter panels are now down to bare metal. There was a lot of filler. Now instead of filling dents, they are fixing the dents.

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Discussion starter · #153 ·
Before I got this car, the fuel door had been eliminated and moved to the taillight. Patching the fuel door metal could have been better. They left the door structure intact and welded a piece over the hole. There was no attempt to curve the metal to match. They just covered it up with 1/4 inch of filler. Now the old patch is gone, the structure behind is gone and a new patch has been installed. My body guy's approach is interesting.

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#156 ·
Last thing I would have done is glue that patch it Will show later. No doubts about it. Seen it before
 
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#158 ·
I've see many panels that had repairs where the patch was only spot welded in a few places and then body filler was applied. The
area where the 2 panels were joined expands and contracts differently and the repair shows up. I would not trust a glue to be better
long term.

Then again a lot of new cars are bonded together with glues........I have no experience on how long term that lasts.

I'm old school.

Mikey
 
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#159 ·
What they don't tell you about the glues for the metal on metal panels is that with heat you can peal them apart. Thus the problem of when the repairs are done and body has been painted that any seem/gap that was filled with this glue will release gasses when heated by the sun, and then blister to show right where it was glued.
 
Discussion starter · #160 ·
FUZZY said:
What they don't tell you about the glues for the metal on metal panels is that with heat you can peal them apart. Thus the problem of when the repairs are done and body has been painted that any seem/gap that was filled with this glue will release gasses when heated by the sun, and then blister to show right where it was glued.
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In my case, the glue is applied to the back side of the panel. The panel was also screwed into place and the heads ground off. I acknowledge the concern. But I'm going to have to go with my body guy.
 
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