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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Sounds like you had a good time! I'd be curious to see how it does if you just put it in drive and go.
Trust me, I will try that next time. Unfortunately, that next time will be next spring. That was the last test n tune night for the year here.

And yes, all in all, I had a good time. I'll admit I was a bit nervous leading up to the first pass. I was thinking of a thousand things that could go wrong, LOL But after I got that first pass under my belt, I felt much more comfortable on the second pass. Hey, nothing broke, the car hooked and drove straight with no issues other than the shift light, and we drove it home. I'll call that a win. I'll work on whittling down the ET next year. I spoke with lots of people there that came up to me and complimented me on the car, which was nice. Good people out here in northeast Tennessee.
 
Just curious did you stall it up much on the starting line. I think you could get another tenth out of the 60 foot. the HP numbers you have from the dyno should be good for about an 11.90-12.00. dam respectable for a street car.
 
Just to clarify, my ECU is from Chevrolet Performance, and was made for my crate engine. My 4L80e is is controlled by a U.S. Shift Quick 4 TCM.

During the build, I had originally installed a Sniper in-tank fuel pump. It lasted less than 4 months before it died, so I tend to agree with you on your Sniper quality comment. I've since learned that I can wire in a light and run its ground wire to the WARN output terminal on my Dakota Digital control box, and configure it to activate that ground at a certain rpm.
My bad, I thought you had a dominator ecu. The quick shift is a great unit I would think it could cover the WOT shift point for you. sounds like you had fun which is most important and the car is solid
 
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Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
Just curious did you stall it up much on the starting line. I think you could get another tenth out of the 60 foot. the HP numbers you have from the dyno should be good for about an 11.90-12.00. dam respectable for a street car.
No, I just stomped the gas pedal. I will try that next time, though. I want an 11.999 timeslip!!!
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
I think I may have found the down track repeating blinking issue with my Sniper shift light. It has a feature called Launch RPM. When setting up the shift light, I skipped over that feature in the menu because I didn't need it. Well, it comes with that feature enabled, and it is defaulted at 3,000 rpm. I should have disabled it, which I have now done.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Better than a 1.80 60’ on radials I would call pretty darn good. Mid 12s as you drove it to the strip better yet.
The trap speed seems a bit low for the power, but the car seems to be working well and obviously flat books. Nicely done!
I'm hoping the low trap MPH was because I went through the traps in 4th gear, which is overdrive. In other words, I wasn't screaming the engine to anywhere near its peak power.
 
That be for the best that it’s trapping low; I know Bristol is pretty lax when it’s not an NHRA event, but I’d guess going 120 or so (which seems plausible given your hp) would get the wrong kind of attention pretty quick!
 
that would account for a couple mph but nothing dramatic. car should be 114-116 mph.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
that would account for a couple mph but nothing dramatic. car should be 114-116 mph.
So, where did the rest of my HP go? :ROFLMAO: I'm not going to worry about it. I'll withhold judgement until I can make several perfectly shifted, clean passes on a nice cool day.

Just for the hell of it, I'm going to check the line pressure in my 4L80e.
 
Stall it up and launch it. It all starts with the first 60feet. Also shifting it closer to on time will help
 
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Made a couple of first ever passes down a dragstrip with my '57 Chevy. I aired down my Nitto drag radials to 22 lbs. With no linelock, I was able to let out some smoke from the Nittos. On the first pass, I came off the line with almost full throttle. Boy, those Nitto's hooked! My shifting was terrible, because my Holley Sniper shift light was flashing like crazy all down the track. I had it set to turn on at 6,300 rpm. I didn't know when to shift because the shift light was flashing almost constantly. I shifted into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and accidentally popped it into neutral before pulling it back into 4th before running through the traps. ET was a 12.54. The top end MPH clock was obviously messed up.

Here's the thing about my Holley Sniper shift light. It plugs directly into my OBD II port. Problem is, my Dakota Digital gauges are already plugged in there. I purchased an OBD II splitter cable, but I found out that it can't operate two seperate things. So, what I did at the track was unplug my DD gauges, and plug in the shift light. But now I don't have a tach, so I had to trust only the shift light. Honestly, with the way that thing was working, I would have been better off without the shift light.

The second pass wasn't any better. I didn't know what was going on with the shift light, but I kept it plugged in. I short shifted 2nd and 3rd gears, even shifting into 4th to try and stay out of the damned shift light, to no avail. ET on that run was a 12.66 @ 106 mph.

I'm going back to my tuner and have him look at what the line pressures are on my trans, just to make sure they are where they need to be at WOT. And, I have to do something else with the shift light, probably buy another style that wires in.

For whatever reason, my wife didn't get a video of the first pass. Here is a video of the second pass. Sorry she didn't capture my burnout. :confused:
Sounds like you had a good time! I'd be curious to see how it does if you just put it in drive and go.
Made a couple of first ever passes down a dragstrip with my '57 Chevy. I aired down my Nitto drag radials to 22 lbs. With no linelock, I was able to let out some smoke from the Nittos. On the first pass, I came off the line with almost full throttle. Boy, those Nitto's hooked! My shifting was terrible, because my Holley Sniper shift light was flashing like crazy all down the track. I had it set to turn on at 6,300 rpm. I didn't know when to shift because the shift light was flashing almost constantly. I shifted into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and accidentally popped it into neutral before pulling it back into 4th before running through the traps. ET was a 12.54. The top end MPH clock was obviously messed up.

Here's the thing about my Holley Sniper shift light. It plugs directly into my OBD II port. Problem is, my Dakota Digital gauges are already plugged in there. I purchased an OBD II splitter cable, but I found out that it can't operate two seperate things. So, what I did at the track was unplug my DD gauges, and plug in the shift light. But now I don't have a tach, so I had to trust only the shift light. Honestly, with the way that thing was working, I would have been better off without the shift light.

The second pass wasn't any better. I didn't know what was going on with the shift light, but I kept it plugged in. I short shifted 2nd and 3rd gears, even shifting into 4th to try and stay out of the damned shift light, to no avail. ET on that run was a 12.66 @ 106 mph.

I'm going back to my tuner and have him look at what the line pressures are on my trans, just to make sure they are where they need to be at WOT. And, I have to do something else with the shift light, probably buy another style that wires in.

For whatever reason, my wife didn't get a video of the first pass. Here is a video of the second pass. Sorry she didn't capture my burnout. :confused:
 
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