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hi mike norm here. i did what you said on a rear window install on my 55
but i am getting leaks at the top i can't stop. it is coming in between the seal and the metal lip that the seal attaches to. the lip is in good shape at the top i had to do repairs in the lower left corner. it seems like it maybe leaking around the new molding clips
do i need some type of sealant?
thanks norm
nmungo@tampabay.rr.com
 
Broke is once did not fit the second time 3 times the charm

Thanks Mike for the great instructions in installing the windshield.

Question: What is the best type of front seal and where to get them.
Is the seal for the 150 or 210 thicker.

The seal looks to be too thick and is holding the trim away from the body both front and rear.
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Long sad story to follow:
I installed the front and rear windshields.
Added extra clips to the rear and used 3/8 butyl strip caulk in rear.

The front windshield was about 15 years old. I went in tight but fit. The next day it was cracked all the way down the on the left about 12 inches from the driver side.

The driver side door post is about 1/4 inch pushed in towards the center of the car so the windshield is a little tight on the driver side. I have installed four windshields this way over 30 years and none of them leaked.

I took the car a glass shop. I have used them before. The glass guy has been doing it for 30 years and is familiar with the 57.

He had trouble also. The lower front molding does not like to fit in the curve at the corners. It looks like it got damaged at the clip area before the curve and is holding it away.

The wiper escutcheons will not go on.
The glass guy filled the gaps with RTV and now I can not get the trim to lay flat enough to get the wiper escutcheons on

There is a big gap at the top of the rear windshields molding and the bottom has popped off even though I added four extra clips

The Plan:
It looks like I will have to remove both windshields. All the Interior trim has been installed along with the new interior.

I will order new windshield seals, moldings, wiper escutcheons,
I will use less chalking in the rear. (1/4inch bead.)
I will attach the escutcheons before tightening the molding nuts.
I will add more clips to the rear.
I will do it my self wit the help of my friend bill. (6'3" with long arms)

Well you know what they say three times is the charm.
 
Thanks Mike for the great instructions in installing the windshield.

Question: What is the best type of front seal and where to get them.
Is the seal for the 150 or 210 thicker.

The seal looks to be too thick and is holding the trim away from the body both front and rear.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Long sad story to follow:
I installed the front and rear windshields.
Added extra clips to the rear and used 3/8 butyl strip caulk in rear.

The front windshield was about 15 years old. I went in tight but fit. The next day it was cracked all the way down the on the left about 12 inches from the driver side.

The driver side door post is about 1/4 inch pushed in towards the center of the car so the windshield is a little tight on the driver side. I have installed four windshields this way over 30 years and none of them leaked.

I took the car a glass shop. I have used them before. The glass guy has been doing it for 30 years and is familiar with the 57.

He had trouble also. The lower front molding does not like to fit in the curve at the corners. It looks like it got damaged at the clip area before the curve and is holding it away.

The wiper escutcheons will not go on.
The glass guy filled the gaps with RTV and now I can not get the trim to lay flat enough to get the wiper escutcheons on

There is a big gap at the top of the rear windshields molding and the bottom has popped off even though I added four extra clips

The Plan:
It looks like I will have to remove both windshields. All the Interior trim has been installed along with the new interior.

I will order new windshield seals, moldings, wiper escutcheons,
I will use less chalking in the rear. (1/4inch bead.)
I will attach the escutcheons before tightening the molding nuts.
I will add more clips to the rear.
I will do it my self wit the help of my friend bill. (6'3" with long arms)

Well you know what they say three times is the charm.
Boy, I can relate to your problems, I'm still having to re-install the rear window on the 57 2dr hardtop, this is what I have found to be the main things stopping the moldings setting right (not sure what model yours is but I hope some of this feedback can help).

- The reproduction rear molding clips are hopeless unless they are modified. The top needs 0.040" ground off, the barb needs to be pulled out so it is at 30 deg, then put a needle file through the barb hole and sharpen the barb till it pricks when it's touched. Make sure that when the clips are installed, the barb touches the body reveal. I have been advised to put a smear of grease on the body reveal behind the clips, to stop the molding leg chipping the paint when it's installed.

- My previous seal was new, but old stock and it was hard, so it is now to be replaced by a new T&N seal which is much softer.

- make sure all of the moldings have been prefitted to check the shape is correct.

- the window should be centered and should have an even gap between the seal and the body reveal, the window can be pushed around a bit to get it right.

- The rear pillar outer s/s moldings were not off this car, so the position the rear screw located the molding made the reveal rebate for the lower window moldings, too proud of the body by nearly 1/8", this prevented the lower moldings from seating correctly between the clip and the body. These pillar moldings have now been repositioned further forward, so the reveal is now flush.

Hope this helps my installation, and others if they get the same problems.
It seems that if you get a complete vehicle, and not a collection of parts like I did, most of these problems are avoided.
 
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Does any one know were can I buy a T & N windshield seal for a 1957 2 door hard top? I would appreciate the info. Thanks.


John

I would check with Jalapeno a member here at trifive i believe he can get the T&N seals.
 
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Thanks for the glass removal Info

Thanks for posting the instructions on how to remove the front and rear glass, it was very helpful but with one small inconsistency. The RHS & LHS lower mouldings on my back glass were also held in place (quite stubbornly) by 2 small screws that attached the moulding to the car and could only be seen once the rubber seal was cut away.

Is this the remnants of a creative replacement somewhere in the car's history, a quirk of Canadian built cars, or???

Thanks again.

Garry
 
"The RHS & LHS lower mouldings on my back glass were also held in place (quite stubbornly) by 2 small screws that attached the moulding to the car and could only be seen once the rubber seal was cut away."

thats interesting because my 55 2 door sedan had the same thing, two small screws through the lower part of the moulding....instead of putting them back in i added more clips around that bend. seems to be good. i just thought somebody was rigging the trim up because it popped out..
 
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I recently purchased a 57 4dr sedan with parts. In the trunk were 2 new front and rear window gaskets. Is there a way to tell if they are TN gaskets? I've heard other members say there are problems with the gaskets from other part sources
 
When the rear window stainless was removed and replaced, the center bottom stainless popped up after about a week of driving around. I can push it down with my palm, but it obviously does not hold for long.

Short of removing the entire stainless/window/seal and replacing all of the clips, plus extras, is there any quick fix that would allow me to just sit around and drink Budweiser as opposed to installing the new clips? Gasp!

Thanks!

Image



John
 
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Ok so I've read some and searched some. I recently had a glass company look at my front and rear windows and they said they were in right just didn't have sealant in them. So I paid them 90 dollars and thought I was ok. :stupid:

So in my search for an answer I came across this thread and have a few questions now. One leak is on the back panel in the corners for the rear window. And when you open the trunk you see a little water spot on the wheel wells. So my questions for this window:

Could the window not be in right and I need to remove it and try again? Could it be the sealant or the seal as a whole. How about the rear glass drain seals? IF drain seals can the "drain seals" be put in with the window in? Could the seals be clogged and causing it to back up onto the panel? If not a combination of all this?

I could only think my leak in the trunk is the drain seals, because the hose is wet sometimes. But on the inside on the corner of the back panel Im not sure.

Front window:

I get a wet spot on the floor board in the corner by the post that comes down were the door meets the car. (if that makes sense) There is a wet spot on both sides in the same spot. Which makes me think that its not the front window so I ask yall.

If the front window was in wrong would that be where I should/could be getting a leak? Could it be from the side and vent windows and running down the inside of the door and out there onto the floor?

And what is the "window gutter inner cowl panel drain seals"? Are they for front or back window? And obviously I don't know what they are so how bad do I need them?:eek:


Sorry for the long post but I wanted to try to give yall as much information as possible. Thanks for all the answer and pointers in advance.:beer:
 
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55,56,57 front and back glass on a 210 2 or 4 door the same?
Brad, the 2dr and 4dr sedan will have the same glass in them.
Terry
 
I cant get it

I have the clips on the pinch welds and the seal on the glass. I tried putting it in with the cord in the channel but when it got to the top corners the seal didn't want to slip in. Is there something I'm missing? I started from the middle of the bottom so whats my hangup?
:hmpf:
 
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