Good morning will a gal of clear coat be enough to cover my 57 4dr at a 4:1 and how many coats will it cover? also what tip is best to use for the clear coat and base coat with small metalic . thanks for all the help
clear coat base coat advice
cheifyoda
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That should be enough. That would be five quarts. 3 coats and you should have some left.
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Are you gonna wet sand and buff after the clear? If you are going to wet sand, I'd spray on more coats of clear because you will probably sand off a least 2-3 coats of clear. If you put on 7-8 coats, sand/buff off 2-4 coats that leaves 3-4 coats which is what you want. I put 2-3 coats on my car, wet sanded and went through the clear. If you gonna spray and drive it, 2-3 is good.
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I have some different thoughts on this.
If you are not painting in a professional type of spray-booth, the more coats of clear you put on, the more chance you have of sealing in dust. And, if the color you are painting is a light one with no metallics, they can stand out like a sore thumb. Some dust is transparent but some has color to it.
So, to put the minimum amount of coats on, it's important to lay it down as flat as possible with minimal orange peel. Then you don't have to sand as much off. The key to laying it down flat is with a high quality spray gun that is adjusted properly.
I have an Iwata LPH-400 gun with a 1.4 tip that will do just that. I believe that with this gun, I can lay it down flat enough to where I would only sand about 1 coat off if I were to color sand it. So, in that case, I would shoot just 4 coats.
Here's a few pictures. The top I just recently did and put 3 coats of clear on it. I am not going to color sand the whole top. I'm just going to barely sand the dust nibs and run the polisher over it.
My dash, I'm not touching at all. I'm leaving it just as you see which is as shot.
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I do have to admit, I hate color sanding and buffing.
If you are not painting in a professional type of spray-booth, the more coats of clear you put on, the more chance you have of sealing in dust. And, if the color you are painting is a light one with no metallics, they can stand out like a sore thumb. Some dust is transparent but some has color to it.
So, to put the minimum amount of coats on, it's important to lay it down as flat as possible with minimal orange peel. Then you don't have to sand as much off. The key to laying it down flat is with a high quality spray gun that is adjusted properly.
I have an Iwata LPH-400 gun with a 1.4 tip that will do just that. I believe that with this gun, I can lay it down flat enough to where I would only sand about 1 coat off if I were to color sand it. So, in that case, I would shoot just 4 coats.
Here's a few pictures. The top I just recently did and put 3 coats of clear on it. I am not going to color sand the whole top. I'm just going to barely sand the dust nibs and run the polisher over it.
My dash, I'm not touching at all. I'm leaving it just as you see which is as shot.
I do have to admit, I hate color sanding and buffing.
"If you are not painting in a professional type of spray-booth, the more coats of clear you put on, the more chance you have of sealing in dust."
You just have to "walk the line" on this - do what you need to do. You could also experiment with a production or "speed" clear, but it doesn't flow out like other clears do. So you could get a situation where you have no dust but it doesn't spray flat.
I think most guys are going to be needing to color sand to have the best final product.
You just have to "walk the line" on this - do what you need to do. You could also experiment with a production or "speed" clear, but it doesn't flow out like other clears do. So you could get a situation where you have no dust but it doesn't spray flat.
I think most guys are going to be needing to color sand to have the best final product.
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No argument there.
For the ultimate job, you need to color sand and buff.
I do believe though, the ultimate job for bc/cc is also going to require a pro type booth.
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The dust is some thing to consider it could cause problems. Some clears are yellower i guess you could say then others. I havent noticed any problems in what im doing. Other then the dirt nibs that seem to get in there no matter how much prep you do.
Doing the 3 coats sand and shoot 3 more seems to add some depth and shine. That you dont get from just one stage. Ive shot single stage like this by accident. And the second stage added gloss imo. Some say no but from what ive seen it does. And it had nothing to do with how smooth it layed out.
Doing the 3 coats sand and shoot 3 more seems to add some depth and shine. That you dont get from just one stage. Ive shot single stage like this by accident. And the second stage added gloss imo. Some say no but from what ive seen it does. And it had nothing to do with how smooth it layed out.
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Well You guy's are giving me a lesson on shooting paint. Thank you for the detailed descriptions on cots and wet sanding. My question is, If you do not have a pro spray Boothe, what prep work to garage do you need to consider before the shoot???? :blowtiedb: 
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One question.. If the color says (can't remember for sure) 1 part color, 1 part activator, (or is it 4 to 1) anyways the question, do you add anything like laquare thinner with it? Someone told me that helps for a chemical bond.
You should mix according to the paint mfr's p-sheet. For instance, one product I use calls for 4:2:1 where the mix is paint:reducer:hardener. The reducer is the product called for, not lacquer thinner.
Don't use lacquer thinner except with lacquer products.
Don't use lacquer thinner except with lacquer products.
Its the way to go,dust free and awesome job,will pay off if u ever sell yer car,ups value huge.
Most shops get pretty anal when u ask to rent.Believe me garage jobs ,look like backyard if u have an eye for quality.
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Oh you would be shocked at how good some backyard paint jobs are and at how crappy some booth jobs are believe me.
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Haha..Im with you brother! Some of the best jobs ive ever seen. where done in home garages. :tu Done out of passion for the auto. The booth is just another tool to make it easier and safer for the painter.
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Yeah I completely agree that a paint booth is the best environment hands down, but to say you can't have a nice paint job without one is just not true. At home I can relax and take my time, I'm not in a rush, can fix issues. When I have rented booths I felt rushed and I did not do the job as nice as I could have. I prefer to be at home.
If you can paint you can paint and thats all to it. I would park my home jobs next to any street driven booth painted car and feel mine is just as nice and in some cases better. That's not to brag its just the truth. Its not because I'm talented or anything like that either. Its simply because its my car and I care more then some guy who is just doing it to make a buck. I put in the extra time to get it right that's all.
Most of the problems with paint jobs I seen has nothing to do with the application of the paint anyway. The problem was not spending the time in the prep work, spraying paint is the easiest part. The body work is where your time should be spent. People get too excited to spray color before they should have, but I understand color is nice.lol
This is a back yard paint job and my pics don't do it justice (my camera sucks). Look at the reflection of the trees in that paint. No I did not paint it, but I know the guy that did. In person this car looks like black glass.lol
More backyard/ garage paint jobs
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