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55mike

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Welp... for the past few weeks, I've been installing a new Vintage Air Gen IV system in my 55. I hesitated to do this for several reasons but finally decided it was time to pull the trigger and go for it. Below are a few notes that might bode informational to any of you considering this project.

I bought the unit from Wheels Of Time out of Mississippi. Gary had a good price (about 10% off "retail") The unit was dropped shipped directly from Vintage Air (VA).
* The boxes came within a week.. but the compressor box came the next day
* Everything from VA was neatly packaged except the hardware kit for the compressor bracket was wrong. One quick phone call and they sent the proper kit. I got it within 3 days. Suggest you double check everything on the packing list(s) before starting the job.
* The prep was pretty straight forward, by removing the glove compartment, ash tray, heater control unit, heater box, speaker V .. but the real kicker was removing the defrost duct. This was an absolute pain in the rear... especially on a "done" car like mine. I ended up pulling the speedo cluster and reaching in with a Sawzall to hack that bad boy in 3rd's. Then I reached in through the speaker V to get the other end cut.. I saw no other way to yard it out!
* Since I'm using a cross flow radiator I got the "universal condenser kit." this means the hoses need to be cut/mocked up for a custom fit. The hard lines for this kit run under the radiator. I had to cut the striker plate and vertical support bracket to make room for the condenser.
* I mounted the drier on the inside wheel well near the core support panel
* The condenser wasn't a real bolt on deal for me.. since I don't have a Griffin radiator, I had to fabricate brackets. I ended up pulling the radiator out and flopping it up on my work bench to get the condenser mounted.
* The next fun challenge was the compressor bracket. I had the VA unit powder coated and it wouldn't work with my Billet Specialties alternator bracket... (Homer voice.. DOOOAAAHHTT). $200 bucks later and I got two new brackets that would work together. I also needed to change the water pump cone/pulley to a two groove and the crank pulley as well.
* Next issue was the heater hose that comes out of the intake manifold (pass side) that required a 90 degree fitting. I ended up plugging one of the holes and had to remote mount of the fan off-on switch to the drivers side head.. For belts, I got Gates "green stripe" and it took about 4 trips to the parts store to get that "just right" length to keep the compressor and alternator close enough towards the center to avoid the tall AFR valve covers. The bracket system uses turnbuckles that I had to machine shorter to accomodate the compressor/alternator.
* Installing the evaporator under the dash is simply a two man job. I had a friend pull out on the lower part of the dash while I shoe-horned the thing up and in to place. Getting the two bolts started as no fun either.. but doable.
* Wiring was actually fairly easy.. but since my battery is in the trunk required a bunch more work extending two ground wires and one main 12v wire directly to the battery posts. The trinary switch wiring was not too bad and thanks to trifive.com I actually got a few pointers on the schematic. The directions for the switch were not too good for me.
* The heater control panel is converted to electronic which removes/replaces the cable system. The directions are clear and I spent one evening doing the conversion. Calibration is very easy and straight forward.

OH one lesson learned that was quite painfull.. Don't do like I did and use a cheap razor-knife to cut hoses... I attempted to do this until the blade broke in half causing a full-tilt stabbing of my left thumb.. we're taking blood on the ceiling, hot water heater and even the fender of the car... hummm next time I'll use hose cutters!!

All in all it was a fun project... but certainly a challenge as well. It took me many more hours than the 16 suggested in some of the material I read. I just got it back from the A/C shop where it was evacuated and charged up... and yes, it's COLD..!
 
Is the 55 defrost duct system the same as the 57??

I'm planning on getting Vintage Air or Southern Air in the future (probably a couple years).

I was going to remove the ducts in my car while I have everything torn apart (under dash is pretty much empty minus the ducts). I removed the factory heater also. I was thinking my ducts just unscrew?? Is this correct or will I need a sawzall??
 
Is the 55 defrost duct system the same as the 57??

I was going to remove the ducts in my car while I have everything torn apart (under dash is pretty much empty minus the ducts). I removed the factory heater also. I was thinking my ducts just unscrew?? Is this correct or will I need a sawzall??
I think some 55's had 4 defrost ducts and later ones had 2 ducts like the 57.
Yes, the defrost ducts unscrew from the bottom. ....http://www.trifive.com/garage/57%20Chevy%20Assembly%20Manual/101-2.gif
 
I thought all 55s had the 4 defroster outlets. But mine is an early 55 and there are many things different from later 55 models.

The duct is fastened by screws.

The other thing is that the outlets that are in the same place as on a 56 are not as wide as the 56 ones.

As Old Buzzard pointed out, the defroster outlets supplied by VA for 55-56 models don't fit a 55 very well. I'm not real sure how I'm going to attack that yet. Probably in a simple way.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Good for you mike!! I bet that felt great driving the ole 55 around with the cool air blowing in your face!:tu Driving around in that kinda comfort in such a classic body style.:cool:

I will be doing this to my 56 one day as well working my way there. I feel your pain ive cut my self many times with 009 single edge blades. Been working on my firewall the last week. The wire wheel burns,welder burns, and acid burning in the many cuts from hand sanding. Lots of little edges to stab under your finger nails while sanding. Waiting on the pay off.:sign0020:

Does the behind the dash assembly use the old heater mounting holes in the firewall? Seems like it would.

Mike
The assembly under the dash ("evaporator") mounts where the stock heater box mounts using two stock holes that are in the firewall (one of the holes is under the battery box). This part is certainly a two man job.. getting that unit up and where it belongs takes some work. Once in, then two bolts are pushed in from the firewall to the unit and that was kinda tricky to get lined up. The water/a/c fittings-pipes come out of the hole that was for the stock fan motor.
 
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
Now some pictures...

Mike,
So now that you have it down would it be ok to bring my '55 over. ha ha
Sorry to here about the hand and thanks for the heads-up :confused0006:.
Do you have any pic's?
Later,
Kev
Hi Kev, here are few pictures..
Image


Image


Image


This is the VA glove compartment enclosure that I installed a Retro Sound unit in to. I had to crowd it over to the left as far as possible to clear the VA system.. but it worked.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I thought all 55s had the 4 defroster outlets. But mine is an early 55 and there are many things different from later 55 models.

The duct is fastened by screws.

The other thing is that the outlets that are in the same place as on a 56 are not as wide as the 56 ones.

As Old Buzzard pointed out, the defroster outlets supplied by VA for 55-56 models don't fit a 55 very well. I'm not real sure how I'm going to attack that yet. Probably in a simple way.
Mine had the 4 ducts.. the issue I had was yarding the dang thing out since the car is wired etc... and I have Rain Gear wiper system. So, I hacked it with Mr. Sawzall and "won". The VA defroster outlets supplied in my kit were "ok" in that I got them installed fine and they did clear the Rain Gear system.
 
There is absolutely no question that all this goes better with the interior side of the firewall completely stripped. Divine guidance might be necessary if you already have the a/c installed and want to put a Raingear in, or even work on the stock wiper system.

If so, mock everything up individually, take care of mounting holes and studs, and decide how far up to run any Dynamat type insulation. Then install the insulation, followed by the Raingear, the defroster ducts, and the a/c unit. Then do your wiring.
 
X2..

There is absolutely no question that all this goes better with the interior side of the firewall completely stripped. Divine guidance might be necessary if you already have the a/c installed and want to put a Raingear in, or even work on the stock wiper system.

If so, mock everything up individually, take care of mounting holes and studs, and decide how far up to run any Dynamat type insulation. Then install the insulation, followed by the Raingear, the defroster ducts, and the a/c unit. Then do your wiring.
How I did mine....
My firewall is smoothed, so I made up 2 studs w/ plates on them, and welded them inside the wall. NP hanging the unit. 3rd hanger is at lower lip of dash, so no problem there, either...
I'm still fighting the hoses for the 2 outer outlets.. Haven't decided what to do, yet. [I'll get "motivated" once the Ga summer hits!!]:sign0020:
 
do you lose the function of the floor vents with this install? 1957
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
do you lose the function of the floor vents with this install? 1957
I kept the drivers side vent operational just in case I wanted outside air. I closed off the passenger side vent and removed the cable as per the instructions from VA. This said, there is no reason you couldn't keep the vent, but you would have to move the cable knob over to make room for the corner VA vent..
 
do you lose the function of the floor vents with this install? 1957
Floor vents??? All the original heater comes out and the aftermarket system has provisions for heater vents that come out towards the floor. The original fresh air vents are not affected at all, unless you want them to be. I deleated my fresh air vents cause we don't have fresh air around here. :)

57 fresh air vents are different from a 55.
 
on a 57; the vents that go through the fender into the firewall on the floor.
 
ok, no vents. How does the Ac unit get it's air from the outside of the car? It would seem it is always on MAXAIR in that it gets it's air from the cabin.
 
ok, no vents. How does the Ac unit get it's air from the outside of the car? It would seem it is always on MAXAIR in that it gets it's air from the cabin.
It will be like Maxair, but whats wrong with that? Cooling, cool air is a lot easier than cooling the 110 degree outside air. If you open the fresh air vents, it will get the fresh air from the cabin.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
55Mike, I saw your picture of that earlier in this thread. It wasn't clear to me what I was looking at - even though you had it labeled exactly what it was. Wasn't expecting the glove box to be made of plastic. Great information guys. Thanks a lot!
 
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