[edzolz]

Does anybody know how much to shorten the stock column in a 57 when installing the 500 box and keeping the original shifter in column for automatic? I'm installing one for a customer and he wants to keep the stock column look. Using the CPP kit with a rag joint and modified column/shaft with double "D". I have been told 3 and 3/8 inch is the amount but I don't want to cut until that is verified.

 

[edzolz]

Thanks for the links. With this info I will be able to finish the job correctly. Thanks again Jalapeño.

 

[edzolz]

I shouldn't be contradicting the power steering guru....However, modifying the column with the shift lever going through the firewall as shown with the CPP instructions (quoted) does not require a kit and is no longer the best way to do it, IMHO .

I believe Steve meant to refer you to this $79.99 kit from CCI http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-s...ersion-kit-for-column-shift-605-670-or-delphi-power-steering-box-1955-1957.html which much better, keeping the shift lever outside the firewall.

Does this setup use a spring to put pressure on the shift tube to keep it from slipping out of gear, or is the transmission tight enough to stay in whatever gear the shifter is moved to?? This looks to be the best way I've seen yet. Can't get my head around the bottom of the tube and shift tube to keep them centered or how the shaft is kept centerd inside ot both tubes. A sketch would help if possible.

TIA. Ed

 

[edzolz]

..I believe I used an extra bushing and spring to keep the steering shaft centered; but it wasn't really necessary.

So your saying the steering shaft does not need a lower bushing to keep it centered in the assembly. I'm using a rag joint that takes a double D shaft opposite the splined end that fits the steering box.

 

[edzolz]

The one (and only) bushing that comes with the kit centers the shift tube within the mast jacket (column)...It is shown to the far right in the pic below.

The extra bushing (and light weight spring) that I put in was to keep the steering shaft centered within the shift tube.....I will have to take a pic of my set-up and post tomorrow.

I have this figured out now. The bushing in that kit centers the shift tube inside the mast jacket. There is no bushing in the kit that centers the steering shaft inside of the shift tube. I will turn a bushing to center the steering shaft and allow it to turn inside of the shift tube. This bushing will be secured to the shift tube so it can't move out of location. This is the last thing I need to do so I can return this car to it's owner.

 

[edzolz]

It might not be necessary but since this is for a customer I will feel better. I will take pics as I go and post them.

Ed

 

[edzolz]

I picked up my bushing at Ace Hardware....Just curious....How do you plan on securing it to the shift tube?

I don't know how thin the bushing will be, but plan on drilling small holes in the tube and tapping the bushing with probably three screws to hold it in. I have some 66 Nylon bar stock or maybe make the bushing from Delrin for self lubrication

 

[edzolz]

There is no need for any bushing inside the shift tube. The steering shaft is not going anywhere once it is secured to the rag joint. There needs to be movement to allow for body/chassis flex and for when the rubber body mounts settle. If there is no room for movement the steering shaft will bind on the shift tube.

This my first tri five to build in a long time (40 or so years). My experience is with later 60's muscle type cars. All of the later steering setups have a lower bearing to align the steering shaft to the mast jacket. I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, but what do you base your comment on? I've never had a problem with the lower bearing binding the steering shaft.

 

[edzolz]

If a bearing/bushing was needed there GM would have put one there.

My point exactly, GM did put one there in the later columns that do not have the solid shaft coming from the steering box itself. I can see no need for one with the shaft that is integral with the box.

 

[edzolz]

Ed, for a bushing as you describe to work well, the column, shift tube and steering shaft must be precisely concentric with each other, which is next to impossible to achieve. All three will shift and move and jiggle and flex, none of which you can OR NEED to minimize.

What I suggest is to try it without the bushing (just like tens of thousands have already been done without problems) and see if you think it merits a bushing.

In retrospect, What all of you say is there is/will be no need to support the lower end of the steering shaft because it might cause binding or other problems. Too late, I made my bushing, installed it securely, and assembled the column back like planned. Guess what, there is no binding, nothing out of concentricity, and the car steers like a new one. Maybe I should take the bushing out to make it steer more like an old car with power steering added.

 

[edzolz]

I guess it is just my nature to over engineer a project. I am a 70 year old retired design/manufacturing engineer just doing these things as a hobby and to help out friends that can't do for themselves. I have gotten lots of excellent information from this site regarding this build and have nothing but respect for the members. If anyone needs information regarding mid 60's Oldsmobile Cutlass or 442's please call on me. That is where my expertise is.
Thanks again.