[Cjbranso]

Working on my ‘57 Belair radio. The radio is original. It worked when I purchased it 3 years ago, but now nothing happens when I turn it on. I know it takes time to warm up, but after a minute, still nothing. I checked the fuse, it’s good. Looked at a diagram of the fuse block I found online and it shows a yellow wire attached to the connector next to the fuse, my yellow wire is not attached there. See photo. Any ideas? Thanks

ot

 

[55wagoncrazy]

Move the yellow wire to the location in my photo. It should work. 3rd from the RH on the lower row.

Mikey

 

[vich57]

Looks like the yellow wire is connected to #10, which is intended for a power antenna, and is expected to be fused from the battery, but the 14 amp fuse is missing.
So the yellow wire will be getting no power from #10.
The radio should be connected to #3, via a 3.5 amp fuse, and is fed from the ignition switch. That fuse is present in your picture.
If the yellow wire is for the radio power, move it to #3.

 

[Cjbranso]

I moved the wire, works now, but the radio hums pretty loudly. Thanks for your help. Any ideas about the humming?

 

[copymutt]

Assuming the hum is there engine not running, Its probably due for a recap. Age weakens capacitors and hum is one sign.

 

[angs1957]

You can add suppressors, check the generator see if there's one fitted.

 

[Tropturq]

If the original radio has never had it's capacitors replaced, they need to be. The older capacitors were made of paper, foil, and wax. They were never intended to last 60 years. When they do go, they explode and cause quite a mess, they could even be the cause of a fire. I highly recommend that you remove your radio and get it serviced,

 

[Dragsix]

Isn't humming also impacted by a bad vibrator tube? I thought that was one symptom but maybe not.

 

[vich57]

A vibrator tube does make a humming noise when it is operating correctly.
Other humming noises may be abnormal.
If you're used to hearing what a good vibrator sounds like, it's not hard to tell the difference.
The vibrator turns 12V DC into a very choppy AC, which is then stepped up via a transformer to the higher voltage required to operate tube circuits.
Older radios often have failing wax capacitors.
I replaced all of my WonderBar's wax capacitors with Sprague 'orange drop' capacitors several decades ago.
Vic

 

[55 Tony]

As for replacing the capacitors, a bad one in the right place can also burn out a transformer. The resistors should also be tested which often includes detaching one lead to measure it correctly.
And yes the vibrator hums (something about that sounds bad). I don't know if they still make them, but they do make solid state replacements that are much more reliable and of course, they don't hum.

 

[55 Tony]

I replaced all of my WonderBar's wax capacitors with Sprague 'orange drop' capacitors several decades ago.
Vic

Way back when, Spraque Orange Drops were better than the rest. Mostly because they very rarely developed leakage (a slight short circuit). Vishay bought Sprague and still makes them(I think?) A few other companys make look alike orange drops with their own name on them. Then there are the scammers selling NOS orange drops that are really crappy caps inside a case to look like a real orange drop. These days you can use some pretty inexpensive caps that are just as good if not better than the old original Sprague's. Just so the values are right, they will give you the same exact sound quality as the old Sprague's and last as long also.

 

[Cjbranso]

My instrument cluster lights, radio light, and clock light won’t come on. I’ve pulled the fuse, it’s ok. I checked the gray wires leading to the back of the light control switch-no loose ones that I can feel. The gray wire is firmly attached to the fuse terminal. I’ve tried wiggling and turning the dimmer back and forth-don’t see any lights. The blinker and high beam instrument lights work. The radio works, but the clock does not. Any ideas about the instrument cluster lights? Thanks

 

[Dragsix]

Are you certain the gang that the grey wire is attached to is hot?

 

[acardon]

What year model? Is there a fuse on the headlight switch?
The dimmer rheostat on the switch could be blown.

 

[Cjbranso]

57 Belair, 2 door sedan.

 

[Cjbranso]

How do I check to see if the gray wire is hot?

 

[Dragsix]

Look at post No. 3. Start at No. 12 fuse and use a basic test light. If no power to No. 12 then no power to the gang where the gray wire is. If no power, then the rheostat is probably shot like Don noted. They can be testy those rheostats.

 

[Cjbranso]

So, last night I checked to see if I have power on the gray wire in the fuse box-I do. Should I replace the headlight switch?

 

[acardon]

So, last night I checked to see if I have power on the gray wire in the fuse box-I do. Should I replace the headlight switch?

No, if the gray wire has power, the light switch is OK. The gray wire goes to the dash lights. Have you checked any of the dash light bulbs?
Do you have an alternator or generator?

 

[55 Tony]

So, last night I checked to see if I have power on the gray wire in the fuse box-I do. Should I replace the headlight switch?

Did you check that with a meter or a test light? For 99.9% of older automotive problems, a test light is better. There are reasons I won't get into. I have digital meters that cost in the hundreds of dollars but they aren't what I use on my car, except for the charging system, and a $5 harbor freight meter will work just as well for that.