Thanks for the info.... I am looking into putting one in one of my 57s. That would be the one for my daughter. Safety first, and for me, mine is going to be 98.99% stock (or as close I can afford to get it there!)

BUDDii

 

I know many are hesitant to put a Ford rear in their car, but you can pick these up for under $300 and they come with disc brakes (in most applications). I think all you have to do is swap out the perches. If I remember correctly, Josh did one of these swaps. PM him for details or he can chime in here.

Along with being $300ish and having disc brakes, they are alsmost always posi rear ends and have a 3.73 ratio. There's some serious bang-for-the-buck there.

I brought up the same subject in another thread here:
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403

The link in the quote below takes you to a S-10 forum, this guy did the swap and lists his costs associated with havin the axles redrilled, etc. Good info.

I don't know how you guys feel about other brand rear ends....

Have you considered a 8.8 ford out of a 95 up Explorer?

It's a very popular budget rear end for all kinds of swaps. They typically sell for $350, and have 31 spline axles and disc brakes with e-brake provisions. The best part is they are 59 3/4 inches wide, and almost always have 3.73 gearing with limited slip (traction lok). It's supposed to be a strong rear end too.

The only downside would be getting the axles and rotors re-drilled for a chevy bolt pattern.

There's all sorts of info out there for all kinds of swaps, here is one guys story that upgraded his S-10:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2561028#post2561028

 

Here's some additional information pertaining to the 8.8 swap that I learned while doing the swap into my '57.

Drum brakes come on the '91-'94 models. Disks are standard on '95-2000 models (Explorers went to IRS in 2001).

The "weak link" of the 8.8 is the connection between the cast center section and the axle tubes. Subjected to enough power, the tubes will spin in the housing. The fix is simple, though. Just weld the tubes to the center section.

The pinion offset (2.25" to the right) is just enough to cause issues in a tri-five if you try to install the 8.8 as is. It will hit the driveshaft tunnel on the passenger's side way before the suspension bottoms out. Of course, you could modify the tunnel in your car to make it wider and get around the clearance problem. According to the formulas published by the u-joint companies, the offset also puts the u-joint at its limits.

The popular "budget" way to shorten the 8.8 is to cut 3 inches out of the driver's side axle tube and weld it back together. This allows you to use a second passenger side axle which can be had cheaply enough from a salvage yard. I'm pretty sure that that's what Josh did in his car. You end up with a rear that's about 56.5" wide and a pinion offset of about 0.75" to the passenger's side. There is a catch to this in a tri-five, though. The 8.8 tubes neck down just before they go through the axle flange. And when you shorten the rear, the spring pads need to be right on top of the area where the tube necks down. This is not an issue with pocketed or inboard springs, though since the spring pads will need to be monted inboard of the area where the tube diameter changes.

For my swap, I cut the driver's side axle tube 7" inboard of the flange and cut the passenger's side tube 4" inboard of the flange (the exact locations of the cuts do not matter, but the end removed from the passenger's side must be cut 3" shorter than the end cut off the driver's side). Then I swapped sides with the cut ends, sleeved and welded them back together. Now, the axles can be "flipped" to the opposite side from where they started. What you end up with is a rear that is 59.5" wide and a pinion that is offset by 0.75" to the driver's side. With this method, there are no clearance issues, the spring pads can be welded on to fit stock location springs, and most any backspacing that can be used on a stock rear can still be used. You also don't have to buy a spare passenger side axle.

All 3 methods of fitment noted above will work in a tri-five. Each method just presents its own set of problems to overcome. Depending on the other components and modifications being planned, each has its own merits as well. The 8.8 is definitely a strong rear that will stand up to a lot of abuse and is truly a "budget" upgrade. I have in the neighborhood of $500 in my swap including the original purchase price and all new brake components.

 

Ford 8.8 Swap-Difference in Cuts



I followed your advice and did this swap. What I found was that the 3" difference in the tube cuts didn't work out exactly right. I did cut 3" more out of the long tube but ended up with my passenger side axle (after swapping sides to be 11/32" closer than the driver side. Result: I had to grind a little bit of metal off the back of the passenger side studs to eliminate interference with the E-brake, and the driver side outside brake pad was a tight fit. But, it will work. My advice to others would be to carefully measure the difference in your axle lengths and cut that difference out of the axle tubes.

Hope this helps future builders. This really is a neat way to go if you want disc brakes, positraction, and a 3.73 axle ratio.
Rodman29

 

I put one in my 55 also. I left the offset alone and so far I have not noticed any problems. I did have to relocate the muffler on the passenger side. Yes the u-joint has hit the bottom of the floor but not to bad. I think if it hits it a few more times it I'll never have to worry about it again..

I left the drum brakes alone as they work good enough for me.

 

I am guilty of doing this upgrade and it is as simple as stated above. I had already moved my leaf springs under the rails so I chose to narrow the rear. One thing not mentioned is the 8.8's come with a sway bar that can be reused as well as the emergency brakes. I have not figured the emergency brakes out yet. The emergency brake is set up to run down the driver side frame rail on a 8.8 where as the 57 original emergency brake cable is centered under the drive shaft. Some on here have done this if the would post some pics and instructions I would appreciate it. Also the 8.8 uses a flange adapter instead of a u-joint to attach the driveshaft to the rear end. Depending on what tranny you are using will determine your drive shaft length but under some instances the original explorer drive shaft can be used, I think with a TKO tranny. I am running a 200-4R and have not measured mine yet. Another bit of info. the 8.8s also can be bought with a 4.10 ratio. If needed, I will try to help out.
Josh

 

I have not figured the emergency brakes out yet. The emergency brake is set up to run down the driver side frame rail on a 8.8 where as the 57 original emergency brake cable is centered under the drive shaft. Some on here have done this if the would post some pics and instructions I would appreciate it.

Josh,

I'll take a shot at this one. I'm still got to order a new '57 e-brake cable because my old one looks so ratty, but this is what I'm going to do. It should be a pretty clean install and cost about $40 in parts

You'll need a '57 e-brake cable, an e-brake clevis kit for the ford rear, and a cable stop (button). Here's a link to the clevis kit: http://store.summitracing.com/partd...part=LOK-EC-81FC&N=700+4294922533+4294838972+400015+4294812372+115&autoview=sku

In the picture of the clevis, you can see the square slot for the e-brake lever that sticks out of the backing plate, but what you can't see is that there is also a hole for the e-brake cable to pass through.

Take an original '57 e-brake cable assembly (or a reproduction one) and cut the little button off one end of the cable so that you can remove the cable from the sleeve, springs, and such (make sure to keep up with the order for all the pieces) You can discard the original clevis on each end of the cable that fits the stock brake set up. Once you have the cable out, slide it through the explorer clevis, back through all the original pieces and, lastly, put the explorer clevis on the end. Then you just need to swage the new button on the end of the cable to keep it all together. Around here, both Home Depot and Lowes sell the cable buttons for about a dollar and have a swaging tool that you can use to crimp them on. I'm sure some larger cities actually have companies that deal in cable rigging that would do that type of work.

The cable should install just like the stock setup, but it will now have the correct ends for the explorer brakes. The only other mod will be to drill the hole out a little larger in the explorer backing plate, since the '57 cable sleeve is bigger in diameter.

I should be getting to mine within the next month or so. I'll take some pictures, but does the above at least give you some idea? Also, it's off topic for this post, but have you done anything with your hydroboost unit yet?

 

Thanks dayj1. I do have one question. My rear came with the Explorer emergency brake cables all the way to about 1inch past were they come together. Has anyone used the original 57 cable and combined it with the Explorer cable?

As for the hydroboost, I have set it up against the firewall a couple of times but that is about it. The one I bought looks huge. I heard they are all basically the same but mine came from a Chevy box van (Frito Lay delivery truck). The mc looks twice the size it needs to be. I need to build the mounting plate for it to see if it will work once i get the dimensions of it. I have the hose layout diagram. Everything seems simple but I will post up when I install it.
Josh

 

Thanks dayj1. I do have one question. My rear came with the Explorer emergency brake cables all the way to about 1inch past were they come together. Has anyone used the original 57 cable and combined it with the Explorer cable?

I saw a post where someone did that a while back. They cut the original '57 cable to get the black cable sleeves off. Then they took the explorer cables and put them through the '57 sleeves and used small u-clamps to join the 2 explorer cables together. That essentially made a single cable out of the 2 explorer cables like an original '57 setup. It still took some drilling of the backing plates for the '57 sleeves to fit. Does that make sense?

 

anybody in the houston area i got a 8.8 with discs and internal parking brakes 3.73posi. i'll sell for $200. one of these days i'll put it in the classifieds. maybe today.

 

So if I was able to get an 8.8 out of a wrecked '96 explorer for $125 would it be worth it? I am very much thinking of doing it this way. Could I just use any run of the mill power brake booster?

And does it matter if its a 4x4 or 4x2?

 

I think it would be very worth it. You can use any power brake booster. If you are using a disc/drum prop. valve, that will need changed to a disc/disc but everything else can stay the same. As far as 4x4 vs. 4x2, I think the rears are all the same. Remember that not all 8.8 are posi. The way you tell is look at the tag held on by one of the covers bolts, usually the upper right from center bolt. On the tag will tell its gear ratio and if it is a posi. If a posi and a 3.73 ratio then it will say 3L73. If a 4.10 posi then it will say 4L10. It not a posi then it will have no "L". Another little bit of info, you can swap the "z" spring inside the rear with one from a F150 8.8 rear to get a better bite on the clutches. The "z" spring is stiffer in the F150.
Josh

 

Installed 8.8

I have installed the 8.8 rearend. I did cut the one side down three inches and put an axle from the passanger side of another rear end on the driver side to center up the pinion. I think this is important to keep the right angles on the drive shaft. This is very easy to do, any one needing help please message me. also I have a lead on a couple of 8.8's for around $250 if any one is looking for one.

 

I have installed the 8.8 rearend. I did cut the one side down three inches and put an axle from the passanger side of another rear end on the driver side to center up the pinion. I think this is important to keep the right angles on the drive shaft. This is very easy to do, any one needing help please message me. also I have a lead on a couple of 8.8's for around $250 if any one is looking for one.

So you got it done..good job. I also gave $250 for my 8.8. Not bad for what you get. You are going to have to drive that car down to my house and help me:tu.
Josh

 

Do you have to get ford bolt pattern rear wheels for this or will a 5-lug chevy pattern squeeze on??

 

If you don't have the axles drilled then you will have to run ford wheels in the back. Some don't mind doing this because they run different tire sizes in the front than in the back. I had my axles redrilled by Moser for $60 for the pair and I also had them install 1/2" studs. I redrill my own rotors with a drill press and a homemade jig.
Josh

 

The 8.8 is a strong rear end, have friends that are f@#d guys and the have ran 9.30s on stock 8.8 mu@#ang rear ends. I plan to build a 55 and have cosidered running an 8.8 myself

 

Hey guys here's something else to consider. Being a F-O-R-D guy myself, the trucks used a 31 spline posi trac loc diff carrier. Its a very cheap upgrade if doing the 8.8 swap and you want to upgrade to 31 spline axles from the stock 28 spline. Then you could order your axles in the chevy bolt pattern in any length you need and have a stronger axle without having to buck up for a high dollar 31 spline carrier. Pick and Pulls are loaded with them and can be had for next to nothing.

 

In the very first post in this thread it states that the Explorer 8.8 has 31 spline axles. This post has me thinking that some may have had 28 spline axles. Is there any reliable way to tell without tearing into it?

Thanks for reviving this one!

 

For the wheels, if you get the dual bolt pattern wheels like I have on my Cragars, you can run them on both I think. IIRC, the 8.8 has a 5x4.5 bolt pattern, right? Or does it have a 5x5 pattern?

 

You are correct the 8.8 is a 5x4.5. The stock are 5x4.75 right?

 

Ours is 5x4.75 on the stock Chevy.

 

How To: e-brake cable for 8.8

Here's the procedure that I used to hook up the e-brake cable after swapping out the stock tri-five rear end for a Ford 8.8. It's not really rocket science, but a simple way to modify a stock '57 cable and get back your parking brake. I chose the method outlined below, because it keeps a "stock" appearance to the cable assembly and should perform without issues.

I suppose it makes the most sense to start with the differences between the ends of the Explorer cable and the Chevy cable. First, the Explorer cable has a cast end with a slot to fit over the e-brake lever while the Chevy cable terminates into a smooth button. Both cable sleeves have push-lock fittings to attach to the brake backing plate, but the stock Chevy cable attaches to a sheet metal backing plate that is considerably thinner than the cast bracket on the 8.8 rear. The last minor difference is that the spring on the Explorer cable is shorter than the Chevy spring. In the next two pics, the Explorer cable is on the left and the Chevy cable is on the right.

Step 1: You'll need an original style e-brake cable. The only parts needed are the sleeves from the original cable assembly. So, if your sleeves are usable, you'll be good to go. My original was in bad shape, so I opted to buy a new one at Advance Auto Parts (part # C91901 for $36.99). It wasn't a stocked part, but my local Advance was able to get it overnight at no additional charge.

Step 2: You'll need 12 feet of 1/8" steel cable, two 1/8" stainless thimbles, and two 1/8" aluminum cable ferrules. I got mine at Lowes (31 cents a foot for the cable, about 80 cents each for the thimbles, and a pack of 2 ferrules for around a dollar). Total cost with tax was under $6. Here's a pic of the thimble next to one of the clips that hold the e-brake cable to the frame bracket. They come in several sizes and you'll want the small one so it doesn't slip off the e-brake lever.

Step 3: Using your new 1/8" cable, thimble, and ferrule, make a loop on one end of your cable and swage the ferrule in place. I have a swaging tool, but, if you don't, the person that cuts the cable for you at Lowes can do it in store for free. The 12 feet of cable will leave you with about 2 feet of extra length. So leave a "tail" hanging through the ferrule as it will make it much easier to pull the cable tight around the ferrule. Just use a cut-off wheel to trim the tail even with the ferrule after it is swaged.

Step 4: Take the springs from the Chevy cable assembly and, using wire cutters, cut them off to 2 1/2 inches long.

Step 5: Cut the button off one end of the Chevy cable and pull it out of the sleeves and springs. Roll it up and hang it on the wall for another project! It's about 3 inches too short to be used for our purposes.

Step 6: Using a cut-off wheel, shorten the 3 prongs on each Chevy cable sleeve end. This will allow the cable sleeve to snap into place in the thicker bracket on the 8.8 rear.

Step 7: Thread your new cable through one shortened spring, both cable sleeves, and the second shortened spring. Both cable sleeves are the same, but it does matter which direction that you turn them. Make sure the ends with the the prongs is facing toward the outher ends of the cable. Here's a pic of the cable end showing the swaged thimble and ferrule, shortened spring, and shortened prongs on the cable sleeve.

Step 8: Now would be a good time to hook everything up under your car to determine the final cable length. In my case, the final cable length was 117" from the outer end of one loop to the other. Just note that you should only mark the cable at this point (don't cut it yet).

Step 9: Using the mark from step 7 you'll be able to position the second thimble and ferrule. Swage it in place or head back to Lowes to get it done there. Again, the extra cable length will give you the leverage to pull the cable tight around the thimble. Trim off the excess with a cut-off wheel after the swaging is done.

Step 10: Install the cable just like you would the stock cable, but now you have ends that will fit tightly over the e-brake levers of the Explorer brakes.

So there you have it. Ten steps to get your parking brake back after an 8.8 swap for around $40 (or only $6 if you already have a good e-brake cable assembly).

 

Thank you for posting that!

 

I'm thinking on going with the 8.8 swap! I'm wondering if the 0.75" offset will hit the X frame on 56 convertible. Any input on this?

 

I don't believe it would. I've never measure a vert x-frame but I would guess there is more than enough room.

I still have not built my emergency brake cable....I'm a slacker:sign0020:
Josh

 

Thanks for that information. I'm going to the scrap yard tomorrow and pulling 3 thadt I bought for $100 each.

 

The above dirrections are for disc brake cars. If you get an older drum brake rear end it will be even easier.

 

lokar makes the e brake cable kit for the 8.8. i installed one last week and there is enough cable to mount it anywhere you want. i centered it but you can mount it on the frame rail if you want. if your using a hand brake then you may need a lever system in order to get more pull on the calipers. according to art morrison you can't get enough leverage with a hand brake without a lever added. i have a picture of his if your interested.

 

I would like to see it. I had thought about adding a foot operated e-brake or rig up an electric motor to operate the e-brake and mount it to the frame but the electric motor would have to be able to pull quite hard.
Josh

 

Dennis
I have been reading this post as I am going to use the 8.8 in my 56.
I would like to see the pictures of the lever system for the e-brake
set up.
thanks
Rich

 

i didn't use one on mine because i'm using a foot operated e brake but if you go to morrisons site and look at the pictures of arts 55 build it should show you the lever. it's also in their build manual. if you can't find it please let me know and i'll copy the manual and get it to you.

 

Dennis, what are you using for that foot pedal ?

 

1986 to 1995 mustanges had 28 spline axles. I think the ranges had them as well. I'm not sure how to tell by just looking at them. The 31 spline axles were in the suv/truck/van line of vehicles. The one usually used in trifives is the 95-2001 Explorer rear.
Josh

 

Thank you