... Or do I have to drill an access hole through the barrel face to find the release detent?

 

As an aside ... is the locking ring supposed to fit over the lock cylinder?

If so, mine doesn't. Or didn't. And that may have been the start to this whole mess, because I was just wanting to fit plastic bezel underneath the licking ring. My mate Steve says the bezels should fit right over the top of the lock cylinder – and that maybe the repro stuff I has in not quite right.

Still doesn't excuse the fact that I messed up the install.

Seems like I have to carefully get rid of what I have and buy/install new.

Grrrr.

 

John,
Sorry cannot help with advice regarding the barrel, but if any consolation, saw your car the other day when getting trimmed, and it is stunning. I think I remember you thinking about single or different color roof. The one color looks great.

Hopefully after a nights sleep the barrel just comes right out.

 

By lock ring do you mean the threaded retainer that fastens the switch to the dash? If so, it will not go over the barrel.

That's why if you lose the keys it takes surgery to get the lock out. Ask me how I know.... Old monaros are the same, and my '56 came with no keys.

 

Thanks, Matt.

Yes, I mean the threaded retainer.

Looks like I need to cut it off. Oh well. I'll call RW in the morning and see if he has replacements parts.

And thanks for the props on the car. Glad it's a solid colour too! Most people told me don't do it ...

 

One other thought... If the barrel is going to be sacrificed, if memory sereves me correctly you can break the chrome piece (that the key enters into) off the front of it by gripping with suitable multi grips. Then I think the lock ring will screw right off allowing you to remove the switch assembly. At least then you can get it to the bench to do surgery to remove the remainder of the barrel.

I'm not quite 100% certain (was a while ago) but think this was the procedure I did on my '56.

 

John, let me answer the question using the American terms for the parts.

The ignition switch is the big assembly where the wires connect.

The lock cylinder is what you put the key in.

The ignition switch is held in place by a lock nut. On a '57, there's a chrome trim ring that covers the lock nut.

You assemble all this in the following order:
1. Push the ignition switch through the dash and secure with the lock nut.
2. Press the trim ring onto the lock nut.
3. Put the key in the lock cylinder.
4. Hold the lock cylinder such that the jagged edge of the key points straight downward. Turn the lock cylinder almost 1/4 turn counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) and slide it into the ignition switch. Turn clockwise until it snaps into place.

Reverse the procedure to disassemble.

(Of course, you start disassembly by putting the key in the cylinder and turning to the lock position. Then, use a pin or paper clip through the hole in the lock cylinder to depress the locking button that holds the cylinder in the switch. Then continue turning the key anti-clockwise until the cylinder pops loose.)

Now, it should be impossible to install the lock cylinder with the jagged edge of the key pointing upwards, due to the male/female connection between the lock cylinder and the switch. If you somehow managed to do that, you've got a real mess. You will likely have to destroy the cylinder and/or switch to disassemble them.

Also, if you try to remove the lock nut before removing the lock cylinder, you will damage the lock nut and the visible portion of the lock cylinder. But, if you have gotten the cylinder in upside down, that may be your best choice.

 

Thanks Stovee!

Yep, all of that sounds right.

Mine is a 56 styled ignition switch, but I assume the turn directions you gave would be the same.

I thought I have out the cylinder in the right way, and I turned it a bit to try and get it seated. It is all the way in, but the two small holes are on the left side now. Not good.

Is there any point in trying to drill a hole through the key housing to try and find the detent? If so, I gather that would be at about 2 o'clock in the assembly?

 

Okay, so you have a RHD with the '56 dash. The RHD uses the same parts as on a '56 LHD. Everything exactly works the same, except there is no chrome trim ring. (you may or may not have the black and white plastic and chrome bezel instead)

I would try patiently working with the cylinder to see if I could get it loose. If all else fails, you could drill the hole you mentioned, or simply break the whole shiny portion off the the lock cylinder with pliers or a big screwdriver.

Good luck!

 

Let me just get this straight:

To start the cylinder removal, you start with the key in and resting vertical at '12 o'clock'. Then depress the plunger and turn the cylinder anti-clockwise and remove. The GM books said turn clockwise to remove, but I am reading in other threads that this is incorrect. It is definitely anti-clockwise to remove?

I had been reading the manual but ended up not doing the removal – the mechanic on site did. So I probably did the install the opposite way to what I had read, which would have been incorrect.

 

Not exactly.

Insert the key (jagged edge down) and move it to the "lock" position. THEN, depress the plunger and simultaneously twist the key anti-clockwise. Done correctly, it's one smooth, simultaneous movement.

If you do this correctly when you have friends watching you and wondering how to get the ignition switch out of the car, it will astonish them. I know this from experience.

On later Chevys with an accessory position, you first move the key to the accessory position, and do the same thing. In either case - the key has been turned anti-clockwise as far as it will go before you attempt to depress the plunger. (The hole won't line up with the plunger otherwise.)

Try depressing the plunger once or twice before removing the cylinder. If you've made proper contact with the plunger, you will feel a very distinct spring action as you press on it with a pin or paper clip. Once that's established, you can press and turn.

I can tell you from experience - you MUST twist the key anti-clockwise after depressing the plunger to remove the lock cylinder. I have done this exact operation on a '55, '56, '57, and '62 Chevys. I also just checked an original 1957 RHD parts catalog to confirm the ignition switch and cylinder are the same as LHD.

My personal preference is to use a heavy wire paper clip to depress the plunger - one just small enough in diameter to fit the hole. (The smaller ones will work, but bend too easily.) A tiny drill bit would work as well (blunt end inserted in the hole).

http://www.amazon.com/ACCO-Economy-...580/dp/B00006IBK8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1380809005&sr=8-2&keywords=paper+clips

 

That's right. But because the hole in the black plastic part of the bezel was too small, the lock nut would not screw down as far as it needed to – so that's why it was left off during trial fit. Fits properly now – perfectly snug.

 

Sounds good.

Do re-read my earlier posts in this thread, as I've added additional information.

Good luck!

 

One final thought - by any chance, did you install the ignition switch itself in the dash upside-down? I don't think it will go into the dash but one way, but your description does make me wonder.

Regardless - insert the key, and make sure it turns. Then, turn it fully anti-clockwise as far as it will go, and see if you can find the plunger (by its spring action) when probing through the tiny hole in the lock cylinder.

 

Thanks, Ted. That's all very well explained and clear. I have it visualised in my mind and its completely 'Zen'. (Guess what was first to mind when I woke this morning?!)

Yes, the switch itself is the correct way around – was trial fitted ok.

Yes, we set up a fine drill bit reversed into a handle.

I'll take another look at it when I get to the workshop in about 60 minutes and report back.

Also, I PMed Pistoncan re drilling out the cylinder and I have a good handle on doing that.

This whole 180 degrees bit reminds me of a scene from the movie Something About Mary where the Ben Still character gets caught jerking off before a date with the Cameron Diaz character and quickly zips up his pants – but too quick, so that it gets caught and his nuts end up jammed on the wrong side (outside) of his closed zipper. Only I was not jerking off ... ... Honest! [The close-up shot was excruciating to watch!]

 

Will this help?

 

If you cannot get the cylinder out by jiggling around with the key inserted, take a large screwdriver and insert it into the chrome slot ( cylinder) and give it a turn sideways and the chrome bezel should pop off allowing you to dis-assemble the switch and remove it from the dash. It's easier and safer to work on the bench at trying to get the cylinder out of the switch.
Just for your info. the correct chrome bezel only has one hole to access the spring pin release, two holes are aftermarket / newer items.
The little half moon indent on the switch must have gotten clocked wrong to allow the cylinder to go in where it did with the holes on the wrong side.

 

I woke at 4:30am with a vision in my mind of drilling out the switch cylinder.

When I got to the workshop at 6:00am all was quiet, but the lock was still stuck. I suggested to the mechanic we start drilling – but he was all for the locksmith.

Mr Locksmith came mid-morning and pushed and poked for about 20 minutes. No luck. He could find his way to the release spring. So we started sizing up where to drill. Just then the lock decided to give way and came out – it must have paid attention to the threat of the drill!

Turns out it had gone in the right way after all and had just become fouled – maybe as you say, Steve.

Anyway, makes me feel better all 'round.

Car should be ready for the road by the end of the day. Maiden voyage!

Thanks to everyone for the help on this, including Gary for his PM.

Cheers

 

I just saw your thread and I see you got the
lock cylinder out okay.Glad to hear.

The reason I'm posting is that I can tell you first hand that
there's a mistake in the '55-'56 Shop Manual for the removal
of the lock cylinder.The steps are correct,except where they
tell you to turn the lock cylinder "clockwise" with the plunger
depressed in the unlock/off position to remove it;it should've
read "counter-clockwise".I own a '55 and a '56,and have removed
and installed them on both.I've never dealt with a '57,but I looked
up the removal in my '57 Shop Manual and found that it says to
depress the plunger in the "lock" position for removal.
As you already know the key must be inserted for removal in any case.

 

Car should be ready for the road by the end of the day. Maiden voyage!

One step closer :congrats:

 

Where did you take her on her maiden voyage? Don't do anything naughty on the road around here. People might think its me. Lol. It's amazing how many people recognise your car. We'll have them confused now.

 

Maiden voyage coming up this weekend. Ran the motor for 20 minutes this arvo and it started leaking out the main, or there abouts. Figure it is the rope seal that has dried and probably has a bit of a flat spot from sitting for a number of years. But the running in time saw the leakage from the water pump dry up. Running is again in the morning, then probably Sunday out. Have the rego and plates on it, ready to go.

 

First it was the water pump that was leaking. Then when it ran to temp the water almost stopped but the oil started coming out the back. We figured that was just the rope seal needing to swell, and we were right – there 's nothing coming from there now. And at the same time, we noticed a bit of oil coming down to the same place from the rear of one of the valve covers – so no big deal there. But the water pump ended up not completely righting itself, so a new one being fitted today. So no drive yesterday!

And, fwiw, can a rope seal be removed from the car without taking the engine out? I know the new 2-piece seals can be put in with the engine still in place, but can the whole change-out process from old style to new be done in situ?

 

:congrats::congrats::congrats: