Could very well be too much oil pressure. What does the gauge show? The relief valve could be stuck.

 

I never would have tried to re-use the "O ring. If it puckered the first time it may have again because of stretch.
:gba:
bowtie-trifive

 

where is the pressure relief valve?

thanks, E

 

In the oil pump. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm0661.html

 

What type of filter do you have? Canister, Spin on or a spin on with an adapter. Some of the spin on adapters leave a lot to be desired and I have seen more than one that had this problem. I have also seen this problem with the canisters if there is more than one "O" ring up in the groove between the block and bypass assembly.

 

The last time it happened, I'm pretty sure I heard a pop...like the gasket being forced out...and sure enough, that's what happened. If a new filter doesn't do the trick, then my only option is to remove the oil pump and clean/replace the valve or the whole oil pump?

 

Bruce, I have a spin on type oil filter, directly to the block. The 283 is from the early sixties. I've never experienced this before. I'd sure hate to have to drop the pan and tear things apart at this point...nearly got her on the road.

thanks, Erik

 

Erik, The early 60's 283 did not have a spin on filter. They used a canister up until & including 67. Can you post up a picture of the oil filter area of the block with no filter in place? It might help to diagnose this. Also, Do you happen to remember what your oil pressure gauge read when you started it?

 

 

Erik, As mentioned by others that is an early block with an adapter for the spin on filter. All adapters do not take a Chevy spin on filter. Some take a Ford style and others take a Mopar style filter. I have also seen different brand filters that have problems with the threaded center part of the filter bottoming on the adapter before they are tight enough to hold the gasket in place. Do you have any records that show a filter number that was on there before you had this problem? I would not condemn the pump until I had a gauge to see the running pressure on a cold start. My bet is this is nothing more than a filter issue. If you can't figure out what filter belongs on that adapter just get a new one and use the filter it recommends. You could always go back to a canister filter if you had to.

 

Read the pressure before you pull the oil pump. A temporary mechanical gauge is not expensive if you don't have one.
Is that a bad spot on the edge near the bottom in that picture?
That's a spin on adapter that is bolted to the canister houseing.

 

Did the original have a filter that fit inside of a canister...? The spot near the bottom is an oil drip.

I'm wondering how I got the correct oil filter when I asked the parts guy for this one. Perhaps all SBC screw on oil filters are fairly similar? Could the adapter be at fault? I'll need to hook up a temporary mechanical gauge in order to check the pressure...still running original idiot light.
Erik

 

Not all the adapters take a Chevy filter. Some take a Ford filter.

 

Leak

Fill the filter about half way with oil then dip your finger ib bthe oil and puts some on the oring so it slides across that machined surface.
Some of those afyer market might have a rough surface.

 

The spin-on adapters are connected to the original by-pass valve. If the filter clogs you should still have oil pressure in the block.

 

That adapter looks very familiar. I think I've used it in the past. I wish I remembered whether it took a Ford filter or not, but I'm thinking it does.

The main difference between a Chevy spin on filter (like a PF35) and the Ford one is the location of the gasket. The Chevy one is closer to the diameter of the filter can.

If I remember correctly, you need to use the gasket for the canister (the square o-ring) with the adapter.

One question, which o-ring or gasket is blowing out? The original canister o-ring or the one on the filter can?

 

There are two styles of spin on oil filter adapters for 1956-67 Chevrolet V8 engines.

The one you have is used with the stock canister style bypass valve under it, has 13/16-16 thread, and uses a Chevrolet type spin on filter. This design relies on an O-ring to seal the adapter to the block and a felt washer to seal the adapter to the bypass valve. If the felt washer fails unfiltered oil will bypass the filter. Even worse pieces of the felt washer can come off and travel directly to the engine bearings. I don't trust and never use this style of adapter. Did you install the bypass, O-ring, and felt washer when you put it together? Here are the instructions: trd-1059-1069.pdf

The second design is the one I prefer. It has ¾-16 thread and uses a Ford style spin on filter. Ford style filters have a built in bypass valve so there is no need to use the old canister bypass valve. To install this adapter you simply remove the old bypass valve, bolt the adapter directly to the block, and spin on a new filter. There is no felt washer to worry about and it uses the most common oil filter on the market. The adapter pictured is a Trans-Dapt 1024. Summit has them. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1024/ I have this style adapter on the 265 in my '56 and the 327 in my Camaro. They work great and don't leak a drop.

 

Hey thanks for the input. It's now the next day and I had a chance to read your posts. To answer Rick's question: the canister o-ring is blowing out...and it's square in cross section. I'm not sure about the felt gasket, or which adapter this is. I assumed it was Chevy. I like the recommendation to start fresh with a known adapter, like the Ford suggested by Steve. Simple cheap first step...that and checking the oil pressure. Tonight after work I'll jump on the oil pressure thing to veryify where I'm at.

thanks again, great to have the experienced help. Sometimes it seems as if I'm working in a vacuum. I'm a woodworker by trade and all my friends and contacts are too....and they think I'm half nuts to be tackling a project like this. Great to have your qualified help. Thanks, Erik.

 

Hey Mendo, I just bought that same Adapter for my 265 from Advance. If you go to Advance Web Site, and the search box, type in Mr. Gasket Adapter Oil Filter or Mr. Gasket Adapter #1270, it will come up. The back of my package says it fits Small Block Chevrolet V8 1957-67 and Big Block Chevy V8 1965-67. The Web Site says to use spin on filter: Oil Filter Conversion Kit; Incl. Rubber O-Ring; Must Use w/Original By-pass Valve; Filter Not Included; Use A Wix 51069; Fram PH-13; AC PF-25 Or Equivalent. I read on another forum that Fram PH-13 has been discontinued, and that PH-5 replaces it. They also said that AC PF-25 has been discontinued also, and AC PF-454 replaces it. So far I have found these filters that are supposed to work from researching the WEB. (FRAM PH30) (PH-5) (XG-30) (TG-30) (WIX 51069) (NAPA GOLD1069). I can not confirm any of this information, because I just looked for the Fram PH-13 at the stores, but I was not able to find one. Then I found where supposedly, it was discontinued. When I get a chance, I am going to take my Adapter to the Parts Store and check all the filters, until I find one that works, checking the ones that I have listed first. Hope this helps some. Good Luck!

 

:anim_25: Hope you get the problem worked out :shakehands:


:gba:

 

The AC Delco PF1218 replaces the PF35, which is just a longer version of the PF25. It's widely available and what I'd recommend.

 

If the square section o-ring is blowing you might not have the original Chevy oil filter adapter in there. It has to be in there. it provides the inner support for the o-ring.

My 65 327 in my 57 Chevy truck has one of those. I built the engine in 85, converted the filter about 1990. last summer the square section o-ring started leaking after only, what, 20 - 21 years? They just don't make stuff like they used to........

It's kind of a PITA to assemble, the original adapter, the o-ring and the spin-on adapter have to go up at the same time. I used two pieces of 5/16" coarse all thread to make a couple alignment/install guides. pushed the whole assembly up there, pulled one stud, installed the bolt then the other.