BMW bring money with.

 

at some point you will have to decide what you really want to do. having a nice streetrod and a drift car is usually out of the budget by a lot. doing the drift thing is stupid expensive I have friends that do it and spend 10x what I spend drag racing. they dont own any real estate or have anything worth anything because the drift thing sucks up ALL their cash, and the cars could only sell for 10 cent on the dollar. IMHO just not worth it.
Focus on the 55 and it will just go up in value. that BMW will never be worth more than you paid for it, ever. although if everything works it is a nice driver.

 

It's not about the money. Enjoy life while your young enough to enjoy it. I was into cars and boats at the same time in my younger days. I had time to enjoy both and don't regret a minute of spending the money instead of investing it. Boats are a huge money pit and fast depreciation.

 

Drifting is about experience. It's hard to explain if you don't really get it, especially if you didn't grow up with the games, movies, animes and culture that inspired it. Anyway, at my core I'm a car enthusiast, not just a Tri-Five enthusiast, and I have lots of stuff I'm going to try and lots of other cars I want to own. The '55 is my dream classic car, and right now all I want to do is drive and enjoy it because the longer I work on it trying to make it perfect the less fun it is.

 

Okay, anyway...

I planned to first dump all the posi additive I picked up for the rear end in, and then fill the rest of the way with gear oil. Is that right or is it supposed to be 50/50?

 

the small bottle of additive then 2 qts. of gear oil.

 

If you are using the mopar stuff, one bottle, then fill the diff.

 

My enclosed trailer came with some Slowpar lube I used it in my Dana 60 in my 75 Camaro drag car. Why would you seek it out, I only used it because it was free.

 

Primarily because it works in these early posi units. The other additives probably work too, but I hate messing with success. So I have stuck with the Mopar additive and not one single issue over many years. Clutches work, no chatter.

I use Penn Grade 1 (the former Brad Penn) brake in oil, 10w30 oil and gl3 gear oil for the Muncie for the same reasons. I have never had a failure with any of my motors or transmissions that I use the stuff in so I stick with what works.

 

Well it’s all back together and so far I’m happy! Rpms have dropped considerably just like the math said and as long as the car is at speed, the temp gauge holds steady at 180.

I have a few bugs yet to work out even though i think the car is ready for a trip albeit taken slowly. When idling at a light for more than two minutes in Drive, the idle and oil pressure slowly creep down and when i step on the gas to go, it bogs and stutters. It also bogs sometimes when I goose it when it’s nice and hot. Looking at it, I noticed my fuel line is basically touching the lower radiator hose, and I’m going to add some heat shield and try to bend it away.

Other than that, the car seems good. I’m going to try driving it to Santa Fe again tomorrow in the heat of the day, where this whole ordeal started.

 

Well Done!

 

Does your engine have a EGR valve if so try plugging vacuum line see if it makes any difference in the bogging down double check your timing & make sure the vacuum advance is working.If that all checks out then the carburetor may need a OH but sounds like you are on the right track.

 

I actually don’t know what an EGR valve is or I’m not familiar with the acronym. The carb was just rebuilt so it doesn’t seem like that would be the issue.

It doesn’t feel like a timing issue, it’s more of a sudden complete cut of power and then it comes back.

 

It has no egr. If it still has points, unplug vacuum advance, plug hose and see if it changes.

 

It also doesn't have points Large cap HEI & his may certainly not have a EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculating valve) a emission device but many 305 engines from that era did & the reason I mentioned it as simply one possibility.

 

Just as a wrap-up, i took the car to Santa Fe today and back, about 60 miles round trip and maybe 2 hours. I did 65 @ 2800-2900 rpm there, sat in stop and go traffic, and did 75 @ 3100 rpm (ish, I don’t remember exactly) on the way back. Never saw 200. I hit 190 idling in traffic and that’s the hottest it got all day. Forgot to mention I installed a shroud from Vintage Air and i think it really helped idling temps a lot.

It still bucks and cuts power occasionally if I’ve been idling at a light and suddenly step on it, so i think it’s a fuel problem but honestly, i trust it enough. I’m going to wrap the fuel line in some sort of heat shield, and call it good.

On Friday I’m driving it 9 hours to Kansas, then on Wednesday of next week, 10 hours to Bowling Green. ✌

 

Heck yeah, see you there.
I would suggest you pick up an ignition module for the HEI carry some water and tools and oil you know basic stuff. where abouts in Kansas are you stopping?? Please post your route? Good luck and safe travels.
Espanola, NM to Bowling Green, KY - Google Maps

 

Heck yeah, see you there.
I would suggest you pick up an ignition module for the HEI carry some water and tools and oil you know basic stuff. where abouts in Kansas are you stopping?? Please post your route? Good luck and safe travels.
Espanola, NM to Bowling Green, KY - Google Maps

Thank you and will do. I also need to pick up a spare tire.

So Friday the 1st I'm taking the '55 from here to McPherson which is a pretty familiar drive at this point. I have to unpack into my new apartment and leave the '55 there and go back with my parents in our van so I can drive my E36 there on Monday.

Wednesday the 6th I'm going from McPherson to Bowling Green. I'm bringing a tent and staying with the wagon at the Beech Bend campground. Planning to bring my old VHS camcorder to film the drag racing and excited to meet you all as well!

From McPherson on the 6th I'm pretty much gonna start from 56 east towards Emporia then go south for a bit till I hit 54 then across KS state line into MO for a bit, south on 5 some, then east on 60 to Charleston, and from there 69 east towards Central City and 165 south to Bowling Green. I can post more details of my route but I wasn't sure if anyone is going to be on my route at the same time as I am. I'll probably start super early in the morning so I can get to the campground before it gets too late.

 

sounds like you have it thought out well. Have a safe trip and keep us posted as you go. do a mileage check (miles divided by gallons put in) every gas stop it will help tell you how you are doing.
If all goes well with our scrap heap, we are heading to Chicago Sunday after the show. we can caravan with you to Louisville we do breakfast at the cracker barrel before heading out.

 

sounds like you have it thought out well. Have a safe trip and keep us posted as you go. do a mileage check (miles divided by gallons put in) every gas stop it will help tell you how you are doing.
If all goes well with our scrap heap, we are heading to Chicago Sunday after the show. we can caravan with you to Louisville we do breakfast at the cracker barrel before heading out.

That would be awesome but I’m planning to drive back Saturday, but it’s sorta up in the air

 

McPherson, KS to Bowling Green, KY - Google Maps
I just plugged in McPherson Kansas onto google maps and this is what it gave me. 35 is decent hwy.

 

Here is another one if you want to avoid the Interstates and travel on secondary highways that usually have a posted 65 miles per hour speed limit. Looks like it only adds a couple of extra hours to your trip.

McPherson to Bowling Green

www.google.com

 

Fuel line now wrapped with reflective fiberglass heat shield and you can also see the Vintage Air shroud. Topped off with oil and ready to go to Kansas tomorrow.

 

Hopefully your sorted have a safe trip