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Spark Plug Recommendation

12K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  kbuhagiar  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello Folks,

Let's talk spark plugs. :flag6:

My engine is a Blueprint crate 383, as follows:
10:1 compression
Aluminum cylinder heads w/64cc chambers
2.02" intake/1.60" exhaust
Hydraulic roller cam
.528 Intake .536 Exhaust
221 Intake / 226 Exhaust duration
@.050 - 110 degree lobe separation
Sanderson headers with Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Holley 770CFM carb with Edelbrock Performer manifold
Holley mechanical fuel pump
MSD 6 box with MSD 8361 Pro-Billet vacuum advance distributor
14 degrees initial, 34 degrees total all in at 3500RPM
180 degree thermostat

I just recently re-sealed the engine (new valve cover, oil pan & timing cover gaskets), and while I was at it I installed a 180 degree thermostat (there was none before), and I changed spark plugs to Blueprint's recommendation (Champion 792 gapped at .045"). My old plugs were NGK R5671A-7. (Disclaimer: there was noting wrong with the NGKs, just replaced them for the sake of having new plugs.)

The car is still running great, but I've noticed a couple of changes:

(1) I used to be able to turn on the key (electric choke), pump the gas once, and the car would fire right up and idle. Now it will fire right up, but it dies so I have to keep my foot on it for about 30 seconds. After that she idles on her own. (*No changes were made to choke or carburetion.)
(2) The engine idles at around 1000rpm in park. I've noticed that the idle seems less smooth than before, not rough but more of the 'pum-pa-pum' sound.
(3) The engine definitely appears to idling leaner that before, as the exhaust fumes are much easier on the eyes than before...surprisingly clean.

Otherwise no miss, no hesitation, instant throttle response, still a blast on the road.

My inclination is that the different spark plugs have something to do with this - thoughts? How different are the plugs that were in it vs. what's in it now?

I know that spark plug choice generates a lot of discussion (just like oil filters, lol), and a lot of people can't stand Champions. I put them in because of Blueprint's recommendation, but frankly I hated them too when I was a kid, couldn't get them to run right in any of my cars.

I'm thinking of going back to the NGKs...is the R5671A-7 the correct heat range?

And while we're at it, what is the spark plug of choice for our Forum members, and what would you recommend for my engine?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I just realized that these symptoms could be caused by a vacuum leak...I will check that immediately. Based on my engine specs, what reading should I expect? Should I see 18?
 
#2 ·
It's really doubtful that the spark plugs affected the idle unless the old plugs were fouled.

There will be lots of opinions on spark plug brand, and basically no opinion is wrong there - though we all have our preferences.

What you do need to get right is the thread length and sealing style correct. That's determined by what heads you are using. Then you need to select the correct heat range.
 
#3 ·
I was unfamiliar with either of the plugs you mentioned so I looked them up.

Your NGK R5671A number is incomplete. There is also a dash number (like -7, -8, -9) that follows the A. The dash number is the heat range.

Champion 792 crosses over to NGK 5672A-9. (Not 5671A.) -9 is a rather cold plug in NGK. I never even ran that cold a plug in a strictly drag race engine, we ran -8. I think a -7 or -6 heat range in NGK would be much more appropriate for a performance street engine.

Both plugs are 14mm x 1.25 thread, 3/4" reach, with a gasket seal and a 5/8" hex.
 
#5 ·
I did find that the Champion 792 and the NGK 5671A are non-resistor plugs. Don't know about 5672A or what the real difference is.

You can run a resistor plug with an MSD box. A resistor plug would be better for radio/stereo and also for EFI. But that's a side issue.

Also saw on the Summit listing for the Champion 792 plug is that's what Blueprint Engines recommends for whatever that's worth.

Were the plugs you replaced -7 or -9?
 
#6 · (Edited)
Made me check

My head manufacturer (Brodix} recommends Champion or Autolite ) for street use but the NGK 5671A-8 for race gas. Since I don't trust Champion after blowing the porcelain out of two plugs in one set in the 70's . Race team I worked on always used Autolite in Alcohol engines. Autolites I use are 3924. They are a copper electrode pug available at Wal Mart.
 
#10 ·
***FOLLOW-UP***

No vacuum leaks found.

I was able to resolve the idle issue by adjusting the idle mixture. I am at a steady 13-14 inches at 1000 RPM (which based on my research is normal for an engine of my specifications).

I am still curious about Blueprint's spark plug recommendation. As Rick mentioned earlier, based on the 10:1 compression and non-competition usage, most authorities recommend a heat range or two hotter than the Champion 792. I have sent them a query about it, looking forward to what they have to say. I'll post their response.
 
#11 ·
Here is the response I received today from Blueprint Engines:

We recommend that plug for use because according to Champion, given our specs for the engine they advised this heat range. I do think if mainly what you do is street driving and rarely get above 4,000 rpms then it can be a bit cold for the street use. The Autolite 3924 seems to be a good street plug and is approved for use in our engines if street driving only.
Rick: This seems to confirm your analysis about heat range.

Now I need to look up the specs on the Autolite 3924, and how it compares to the Champion 792.