I've heard of these elsewhere and thought I'd try one. Also called "quick take up" master cylinder. Pressing on the pedal first moves the 36mm bore (1.4+") to take up any slack and get the shoes and pads snug, then moves the smaller 24mm bore (0.94+").
First wow what a pain to bench bleed, it took an hour (but I learned a trick later that went faster). Installed it and bled the system. I just tried it in the driveway. The pedal feel is nothing short of weird. It's slow, it feels like whatever little ports the fluid goes through are very small. But it does easily lock up the brakes. It also goes to the floor but the brakes lock up before you get that far.
I know the master cylinder is bled properly since I tried the pedal with the plugs screwed into the ports. It was SOLID. Maybe it moved 1/8" like the bleeding instructions tell you, but it didn't even feel like that much.
So after the bleeding was done the pedal is spongy but it locks up the brakes. I'm going to take it on the road and see how it feels in real life scenarios.
Anyone else try one of these or similar?
I did not use my "Pop's Pressure Bleeder" because the top, besides being plastic, is much wider and my bleeder is too narrow. I do have very good results with my other method ( a hose and check valve on the bleeder)
Comments/suggestions?
Oh, my old one is a 1" bore and it works well but is a little hard to press. And yes I realize the new master is made for power brakes but there is no possible way for the rod to "fall out" unless the brake pedal falls off its pivot.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DHB-M390320
First wow what a pain to bench bleed, it took an hour (but I learned a trick later that went faster). Installed it and bled the system. I just tried it in the driveway. The pedal feel is nothing short of weird. It's slow, it feels like whatever little ports the fluid goes through are very small. But it does easily lock up the brakes. It also goes to the floor but the brakes lock up before you get that far.
I know the master cylinder is bled properly since I tried the pedal with the plugs screwed into the ports. It was SOLID. Maybe it moved 1/8" like the bleeding instructions tell you, but it didn't even feel like that much.
So after the bleeding was done the pedal is spongy but it locks up the brakes. I'm going to take it on the road and see how it feels in real life scenarios.
Anyone else try one of these or similar?
I did not use my "Pop's Pressure Bleeder" because the top, besides being plastic, is much wider and my bleeder is too narrow. I do have very good results with my other method ( a hose and check valve on the bleeder)
Comments/suggestions?
Oh, my old one is a 1" bore and it works well but is a little hard to press. And yes I realize the new master is made for power brakes but there is no possible way for the rod to "fall out" unless the brake pedal falls off its pivot.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DHB-M390320
