I've started my hotrods once a month all winter, for many years. What you don't want to do it just start them up, run a few minutes, and turn them off. Run them long enough for the engine temperature to come up before shutting them down.
I've read or heard people say it's not a great idea, but never had any issues with my cars. I think it's worse to sit there static with valves open, than to start occasionally.

 

This:




Moving parts sitting for long periods of time not moving are not good for them. Seals and gaskets will dry and harden, moisture can condensate into fluids and can end up causing a lot of unnecessary problems.

As was also mentioned, if you can safely (think large, solid blocks, not jackstands), raise and block the rear tires off the floor, putting it into gear and letting everything turn over at idle speed does the same for the rear end and the seals and fluid in it.

Between this routine and probably a battery tender, you will be miles ahead come spring.

 

and to go with the above let it run at full temp for at least 10 minutes to get rid of any internal condensation.

 

I've always raised mine up and blocked it securely with wheels off. Then I run a couple of lug nuts down on the rear hubs with some washers to keep the drums tight. I run the engine every week for about 15 minutes or until the rear exhaust pipes get fairly hot at about 1200 RPM, in Drive range. I've never had any issues with any seals leaking. I do use the brake each time I run it just to keep the cylinders moving a bit. I might be a little anal though??
Glenn

 

If you have the right set up in a well equipped workshop/garage space and can work through the cold then do the repairs over winter, hopefully you will be done by spring where you can test the repairs.

 

I live in Wisconsin where it is always bitterly cold in the winter.My 56 Nomad has Coker Firestone tires. I store my car from late October until April in a cement floor storage building. I always put a large tarp under the car to prevent moisture from wicking up through the floor. I do not put the car on jack stands or anything else. I have never had an issue or problem with flat spots on the bias ply tires, or any other problem with storing it this way. I also do not use a battery tender, but remove the battery from the car and store the battery on the wood workbench in my basement.While the battery is in storage, I will charge it at a 10 amp rate every few months. My battery is a reproduction unit that has a sealed AGM type cell. Now as for the Powerglide, It will certainly leak transmission fluid from the torque converter leaking down while it is being stored. I use one of the oil catch pans commonly available at auto parts stores to catch the transmission fluid. By spring I usually need to add about two quarts to top off the Powerglide.

Steve

 

ay. I also do not use a battery tender, but remove the battery from the car and store the battery on the wood workbench in my basement.While the battery is in storage, I will charge it at a 10 amp rate every few months. My battery is a reproduction unit that has a sealed AGM type cell.

Steve

A cold battery will outlive a warm battery hands down.
Either way a battery maintainer or like you do is a very good thing to do.

According to this site, keeping it warm in the basement shortens it's life by about 10 months.

Why Hot Temperatures Reduce the Lifespan of Batteries

Hot temperatures reduce the lifespan of batteries

www.midtronics.com

Many thousands of other sites agree. Don't you have electric in the garage or an extension cord for the occasional charge top off? Or is there another reason you bring it into the house?

 

Definitely start it monthly and let it run. The same applies to older electronics like arcade games (if you have any).

 

Tony I have done it this way for years. If the battery life is really degraded, then I will buy a new one. Anyone who can afford to pour money into these cars, can afford to buy a new battery when necessary!

Steve

 

OK, I guess that's simply the way you want to do it and I'm not going to change your mind. I was just trying to help.

 

I have had as many as five vehicles (Harley included) and starting them throughout our MN winters has never been in the cards for me. I put a battery maintainer on them year round. They sit from Oct./Nov. to April. It seems weather you start them or not, all old engines have an oil leak somewhere. It just seems like a lot of work for nothing gained.

 

You must never have seen an engine that has varnished from sitting. I only needed to see that once

 

Sitting for years? I can understand. But months? I rebuilt engines in both my Camaro and 55 back in 1980. 40 years later with valve covers off, I see the same surfaces as clean as when they were built. I also don't run ethanol fuels. That will definately gum things up. Not to mention the powdery residue left sitting in the carb.

 

It's my understanding that the buildup is gradual, and occurs over time. The longer they sit for intervals, the more the varnish adds to the earlier layer(s).

When I got my 327 that I had bought to rebuild regardless, when I pulled the pan, the crank and pistons would not even turn because of all of the varnish that had built up on them. It's like they were glued in place! I'd never seen anything like it before that, but it definitely happens.

 

If you have no beginning history of why that varnish built up, it's hard to relate to others it's just from not starting regularly. It could be from long oil changes or cheap oils used, etc.

 

You are absolutely correct!