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Transmission crossmember.....

8.4K views 30 replies 14 participants last post by  Speedi D  
Agree that's a strange cross member. If it happens to be bolted to the frame and not welded, you may be able to flip it upside down. You could also buy a nice pre manufactured one and go from there. Usually they are made with the mounting to the frame at about where yours is, but they curve down in the middle so the tranny sits lower yet the exhaust can stay that high. Then you will have to match the angle of the rear to the trans angle if it doesn't fall into place with the reworked cross member. Have to watch the distributor to make sure it doesn't hit the firewall when it's tilted back.
Initial



final (pictured upside down)

 
I don't need a cross member - what it the point on the link? Too many negatives with that product for me.

I made a point with the images. I don't have a drop in the center. My header collectors are between the frame rails, not below. Therefore collectors and pipes are higher than the crossmember. I can remove the crossmember without fooling with the exhaust. I can pull the trans get to the clutch without fooling with the exhaust.

Note how simple it is to change eng/trans angle - but I do not need to do that either. It is correct from the initial set up long ago. I made the new crossmember that bolted right in because I gave the original one to someone. :)
 
You sound angry yet left a smiley face. I think posting the link is something we do quite often in this forum, it's so the OP can see what kind of cross member he can purchase. Not everyone is good at fabrication or has the ability to fabricate one at all. What was the point of your quoting my post and highlighting some in red? I'm glad yours works for you and I'm glad mine works for me (mine is similar to the one in the link). I bought my cross member about 15-20 years before I bought a welder. o_O
Not angry. In your post #36 you posted quoting me, not OP. So the link is directed to me. A general reply would be to OP and I would probably not even posted pictures of my crossmember,

You asked "What was the point of your quoting my post and highlighting some in red?" I highlighted the text in red to indicate specifically what my pictures were in reference to. I used little text because a picture is worth many words. My posted pictures show that you don't need all of those jogs to permit a high exhaust, the crossmember can be below the exhaust. :)
 
Ugh, I had those headers at first. Hanging low, had to watch every bump and dip in the road. They were made pretty bad. Besides going under the trans mounts, they left almost 4" of space between the frame and the collector on the one side and almost 3" on the other. I was welding them up all the time. Don't know why I didn't weld a skid plate on them? Rookie for sure.
Yup nothing to argue about. I had 3/16 skid plates on my Hookers. I bought them used. They were a problem at stock height. That's when I went on to my second set of headers where the rear mounts were cut out and replaced with my second cross member (in photo), replacing the 1st one from a Camaro. This was to lower the front. Later I Narrowed the rear and went with some lowering springs, 1" lowering block, and 30" diameter tires. Front tires are skinnys on 15x4 aluminum slots and the tires are shorter. Even though nothing skids up front I will return to stock height. Even with the lowering at the rear, it still sits a bit high relative to the front so the only option is to raise the front back up to lessen the rake.
 
I had some issues on my 55 with full length headers and 2.5 exhaust, nothing a pipe bender at Muffler shop could not handle, Small price to pay for using a free quality part.
No price to pay for either of the two under-the-exhaust crossmembers I made. The design has many benefits. I have the tools, the stock, and time, as well as I like to make things. I only made the second one because the first one was part of a package of parts that I put together to trade a guy for a set on NOS '55 fenders. :)