[68Dart]

Uninsulated connectors, good crimpers and marine heat shrink. No worries about the wire cracking after the solder. When possibly I just remove, shorten & re-terminal the wire(s). The cleanest approach most times.

 

[Alloy]

Amazon has a decent set of uninsulated butt connectors. These are the ones I have.

ELECFUN 300pcs Non Insulated Butt Connectors Kit 22-10 Gauge Uninsulated Butt Connector 22-16AWG, 16-14AWG, 12-10AWG Electrical Wire Crimp Ferrule Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

ELECFUN 300pcs Non Insulated Butt Connectors Kit 22-10 Gauge Uninsulated Butt Connector 22-16AWG, 16-14AWG, 12-10AWG Electrical Wire Crimp Ferrule Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[55 Tony]

Don't assume I don't know how to solder a wire, been doing that for 40 years now. The ONLY reason I would move the CTS to the left head was I had the sending unit for the temp gauge in the dash in the right head and had the wire pretty much hidden. Other than that it would do me no good, the left header will be just as close to the CTS as the right header is.


A engineer friend of mine shared his opinion of pulling power from the started solenoid.


The starter solenoid is a HORRIBLE place for computer wires. Incandescent light bulbs, sure, they don't give a crap. But it's electrically horrible. The subject goes pretty deep, but yes, absolutely, dumb as it sounds, a separate wire to the same battery post will ABSOLUTELY provide much cleaner power to your new setup. Both in terms of performance when the "kicks" are happening, and in terms of durability of the electronics that are getting fed with those kicks. Many of which would blow your mind if you could watch them on an oscilloscope. The immediate voltages that you would see are huge. Three or five times system voltage, and depending on (everything), they might even be in the wrong polarity. They are (by science that takes years to learn), greatly mitigated by bolting your wires together at the battery post, and NOT anywhere else.

I never said that you couldn't solder. Not even a hint. The only reason I mentioned not knowing how to solder was due to the tech support you received in reference to lengthening the wire as a bad idea. I would have told them that I know how to splice a wire. They are apparently the ones who are assuming that you do not have the skills to lengthen a wire, not me!

Yes, I know all about "noisy" power and why the starter is a bad place to pull power from for any electronic anything. And yes I've looked at it on a scope also. Not for a car, but other electronics 30 or so years ago. That may be why I have never, EVER even thought about using that location for anything besides the starter. I think some people may use that location because their main concern is the engine bay looking "clean" without any wires showing..

 

[55 Tony]

Uninsulated connectors, good crimpers and marine heat shrink. No worries about the wire cracking after the solder. When possibly I just remove, shorten & re-terminal the wire(s). The cleanest approach most times.

As far as no solder due to wire cracking, the marine heat shrink I have been using gets quite stiff, so the soldered area would be held pretty tightly inside of it so it wouldn't be bending at the solder joint.

 

[Alloy]

I've been talking with my engineer friend again he asked if I'm going to use the "dirty power" to turn on the system and I said yes. He said that the bad power could also affect the computer if the incoming signal is dirty.

So another call to holley and I asked him about this and he said I should definitely use a high quality relay from clean power to turn on the system, and isolate it from flyback, especially if I'm using the holley distributor which I am planning on adding later.

So I'm in the process of running another 18awg wire to the battery so supply the turn on power to the system. I didn't want use the same wire that supplies the main power to the system.

This is quickly adding up to a lot more work then I had planned on for this. I hope in the end it will be worth it.

 

[hotrodg726]

Classic Update harness and your wiper motor has three wires going to it?

I've been talking with my engineer friend again he asked if I'm going to use the "dirty power" to turn on the system and I said yes. He said that the bad power could also affect the computer if the incoming signal is dirty.

So another call to holley and I asked him about this and he said I should definitely use a high quality relay from clean power to turn on the system, and isolate it from flyback, especially if I'm using the holley distributor which I am planning on adding later.

So I'm in the process of running another 18awg wire to the battery so supply the turn on power to the system. I didn't want use the same wire that supplies the main power to the system.

This is quickly adding up to a lot more work then I had planned on for this. I hope in the end it will be worth it.

in my experience with installing the dozen or so holley systems I have done I just used the original keyed on power source from the cars fuse box to turn on the ecu and NEVER have seen any issues with it.

 

[Alloy]

I don't doubt you haven't had problems, but until I read ths thread I didn't even realize there was a possibility for a problem, and hollley confirmed there could be and told me what to do to prevent it.. It's much easier (for me) to take a few steps to prevent a potential problem now than try to figure it out later. I guess I'm trying to be proactive and not reactive.

 

[55 Tony]

in my experience with installing the dozen or so holley systems I have done I just used the original keyed on power source from the cars fuse box to turn on the ecu and NEVER have seen any issues with it.

I am not familiar with the system, are you using the key on power to power the unit, or just to turn it on and it has a separate hot wire that provides the actual power? Either way, the keyed on power you use is most certainly better than going to the starter for power.

 

[Rick_L]

it has a separate hot wire that provides the actual power?

The "key on" power is just a trigger. The main power is +12 v constant.

Sure is a big long discussion when Holley says to wire it direct to the battery in their instructions. Every EFI system I've seen a wiring diagram for is this way.

Why not just follow the instrructions?

 

[Alloy]

Why not just follow the instrructions?

Maybe because some us have the battery in the trunk.

 

[Rick_L]

You can run the power and ground to the trunk mount battery and be following the instructions.

 

[hotrodg726]

You can run the power and ground to the trunk mount battery and be following the instructions.

correct for the main power feed. the trigger on wire, does not have to go to the battery per the instructions, just not the wire feeding the coil/coils.

 

[Alloy]

I just finished my sniper install today. Everything checked out perfectly, got the setup with the handheld done. Car fired right up, ran like crap. Popped,spit, then died. I looked under the hood and the intake manifold was covered in fuel. I called holley and they are sending a shipping label and it will be repaired under warranty, but 5-6 weeks for the repair.

I'm considering buying a sniper2 to get ti running sooner. But then I'd have the sniper1 sitting on the shelf and no use for it. I really wanted to drive the car this summer. It's a $1400 decision for me to make. 😕

 

[hotrodg726]

Call Holley and see what the can do on an exchange deal with the old unit

 

[Alloy]

I might try that. I've heard of it being done before. He didn't offer that to me today.

 

[55 Tony]

Or if you bought it from Summit, they will do a swap.

 

[68Dart]

Where was it leaking from? Maybe one of the injectors is not seated.

 

[Alloy]

I bought it directly from holley. And no, they won't do a swap for the sniper 2, I asked this morning. Tried my best but no dice.

Here is a pic of where the gas puddled up. I'm very lucky I didn't burn the car and my shop down.

After talking with Taylor for over an hour I decided to buy a sniper2 setup. He gave me 10% off and is sending me the sniper2, a new sniper1, and a power distribution module for $1406. I still have to send the throttle body and hand held I have now back to them. So I will have two brand new setups in 5 days. Not sure what I'll do with the second setup (sniper1) I may sell it.

I highly recommend if you call holley about the sniper to ask for Taylor. Extremely knowledgeable.

One other thing he did mention on the power supply for the sniper is you need to run a dual post battery and use either the side or top post of ONLY the sniper. Do not run both the power to the sniper off the same post, separate them. For me that's easy, I have a dual post battery.

 

[68Dart]

Very cool. I'd like to try the new one myself but tough as mine hasn't failed....yet.

 

[Alloy]

I wish I could say the same about mine.

As they say, crap happens then you die. I think I've had more than my share of crap in my life.

But the other saying is what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

I guess I'm a pretty strong SOB by now