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235 Power Glide to 283 200 or 700

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13K views 25 replies 15 participants last post by  Chevyragtop57  
#1 · (Edited)
235 Power Glide to 283

I hate to admit it, but after all these years of working on the car and getting it close to drivable again, I give up on the 235. I cracked the head last summer and got water in the oil.

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So, I replace it, replace the bearings, did not turn the crank AGAIN even though I should have, and it runs, but not well. I had plans to beef up the motor and put in a new intake and exhaust with headers and an over drive tranny, but I can spend the same amount of money and have a different motor.
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So I bought a 283 this week. It's from 4/16/67. Came with powerpack heads(same year as block) and ramhorn exhaust one is a 57 and the other is a little later. Crank is a 3849847 and has been turned and ready to go. Now I just need a cam and lifters, and a carb. Don't know what I want with those yet, but I want a daily driver so nothing too crazy.

So when it's done the motor will look like an original powerpack and I'll put in a new overdrive tranny.
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#4 · (Edited)
If you mean the 235, I did replace the head. I had a spare parts car that I just got rid of. The motor runs, but needs the crank turned and valves set. I'm sure that's why there is a miss.

I could spend a few days and get it running fine, but I've never been happy with the stock configuration. Long term for me to put in a new tranny and make it a daily driver, I need to get an adapter plate (about $250), new intake for a four barrel carb (because the two barrel adapter wont fit under my hood like a 55 and 56),and fenton headers (because of the new intake). So after all that I might as well spend the same amount for a motor that will give me more HP and cost about the same in the long run.

This is a decision that took me almost a year to make and I'll miss the blue flame, but I want to drive the car and I'll be able to get a small block up and running faster and with more parts available when something breaks.
 
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#7 ·
You will love the overdrive.
I would never go back to a 3 speed.
We just got back from a big rod run over here, only about a 2 hour drive from home.
We cruised with a bunch of rods on the freeway for a while but I ended up passing them because they were traveling at about 90 kph when the speed limit was 110 kph. You could hear their cars revving while we just cruised past.
And our 55 has 4:11 diff gears. (we were also towing our camper)
Cheers John
 
#8 ·
Altough using a 700R is good, the 200R has just a little better gear ratio spread. I like the 3.06 first gear for the 700R but it has a .70 overdive.

The 200R(CBOP case is best found in cadillacs) has a 2.84 first gear and a.64 overdive gear and the 200r is about the same length as the 350 so little or no cutting of the drive shaft. I know most think the 700R is stronger but the 200R can be made just as strong if not stronger. I have both and I like the 200R best.


Joe:anim_25:
 
#9 ·
I'm heavily leaning to the 2004r as well for the better overdrive ratio and the fit. Just need to make sure I'm not getting one of the early ones.

thanx for all the feedback
 
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#10 ·
Hi, I was talking to an American Cousin and he uses a TH200 in his Nova. When you say "not the early ones" What is the best year model and source of these? I'm thinking this is the way to go on my 56. It currently runs a 283 and Powerglide (CI) and I have a nice 305 to go into it. I do have a TH350 but am thinking of going to an overdrive.
 
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#11 ·
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#12 · (Edited)
thanks to the good advice in this tread, I dropped my heads off at a machine shop for inspection.
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64533
Thumper said:
You would be advised to fit the springs the cam manufacturer recommends.
While you are at it, get the valve guides checked for wear and get them machined for positive seal valve stem seals, you will then need ensure that there is enough clearance between the spring retainer and seal top for the valve to fully open.
Click to expand...
all the guides and half the valves were out of spec. The shop will put in positive seals, and harden the seats for unleaded gas (no need to worry about additives now). It's going to set me back about $750 to get all the work done, but it will be better then slapping stuff together and hoping for the best (like it used to do). Also found out I need the 1.7 springs.
 
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#13 · (Edited)
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#14 ·
Noticed you are sporting an Edelbrock carb, I found that if you do not run a fuel regulator, it will flood regularly. the carb is only designed to run like 8 to 10psi verses like 15psi stock chevy pump. May be worth your time to research the exact spects. I run reg. with no issues, compared to others with no reg. and flood issues. :bowtier:
 
#15 ·
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#17 · (Edited)
I had her driving for almost a year and then in October of 2013 she stated to smoke.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4oPz4zZe8Q

So it's under warranty and it's probably the rings.
Motor is pulled and back at the shop 12/2013
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While she was all torn apart I figured I may as well have the motor stroked and spend even more money :)

So I'm in the process of a frame on restoration and motor work.
March 2014
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2/2015
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Dec 2014
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John from Meridian Auto called from out of the blue. He said he was making progress on the motor. The heads are ported and and the block as been bored. I think he said the head still needs the valves. He mainly wanted to know how soon I want the motor done. He said they are actually busy and need to know how soon I want the motor. I can't remember what I said, but probably in a couple of months? I have a meeting with him Friday to see how things are progressing.


I meet with John and there is a lot of good progress on my motor.
The intake has been ported.
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and the holes for the Tri-Five valve coves.
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This actually looks better then what I expected. They outside was cut out and refilled to make a good section of surface area to bond the new material to. This is gona get spendy.

For now it's back on the shelf.
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I also found out that I should get the correct oil fill tube now. It's pressed in and it's not something I really want to try myself with an aluminum intake.

Feb 2015
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Roller bearing conversion done
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#22 ·
Mikes56 said:
Looking good! Really slick what your doing with the engine build!:tu

I have that EPS intake on my 355 and like it!

Mike
Click to expand...
I've lost my mind is what I'm doing. :)

So 4" stroke journal is going to be turned down to fit in my small journal block. Block has been bored to 4" (it's not a 57 block so it's fine). The intake and 2.5" ramhorns have been ported to breath as good as possible. There is a roller cam kit going in. The cam will be a street cam that's not too crazy. The intake I'm going to powder coat Chevy orange and the heads have been modified to fit Tri-Five valve covers. I'm going to do as much as I can to make it look stock. I'm even going to shave off the side motor mounts. The radiator has stock tanks on it, but a newer core, and I have a 57 air cleaner to top it all off.

So when it's done it will look close to a 283 as I can, but have some decent upgrades.
 
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#20 ·
you can also find them in the big buick,olds,pontiac,chevy 4doors from 82 to85 get the kickdown cable and bracket from carb. I used this on original Rochester carb in my 57 with 355 gears behind stock 283 with stock size 14 inch tires good for 19-20mpg at 70-75 mph
 
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#23 ·
Liking good man....amazing how some engine work turns into a frame on :) sorry to hear about the rings not seating....looks like the reworked engine will be a little ..funner:) I'm running a 383 with the 700r4 and a holley and ended up having to use a spring on the tv cable so u could get enough slack in the cable.....the shop that built it couldn't even adjust it right had to find a good performance trans shop to help dial it in
 
#26 ·
Good job looks great , Mike.
 
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