victor jr. USA made holley is Chinese as a general ruel of thumb, super victor is more for 427+ cu in engines spinning over 7500 rpm

 

victor jr. USA made holley is Chinese

Now that you mention it, I remember my son's Holley intake was made in China. Rather surprised me. In fact, I don't think it even says "Holley" on it. Also explains why the Holley costs so much less.

as a general ruel of thumb, super victor is more for 427+ cu in engines spinning over 7500 rpm

Is that "rule of thumb" based on old school SBC/BBC with carbs, or specifically for these LS intakes?

 

I haven't talked to too many people who were happy with the mid rise Holley vs the Super Victor.The Super Victor has a larger plenum and makes about 15-20hp or so more on top than the Vic Jr. Personally I'd use the Vic Jr on the street for drivability and a Super Vic if race only. The Super Vic is taller so watch your hood. It's probably ok on a stock front clip car but if your car has been clipped and lowered (the engine effectively moves up) than it can be tight. I'm building almost the same exact setup as you. A 408 with a Vic Jr. very similar cam with an 80E as well. I'm looking forward to driving it.Good luck!

 

Good scoop. I shouldn't have trouble with hood clearance even with the Super Vic, since I don't with the Hi-Ram; and it is stock front clip.

I don't want to over-shoot with the intake again, which was my hesitancy with the Victors and their higher advertised powerband. But, down the road I'm thinking bigger headers (currently 1-3/4" primaries, I think it really wants 1-7/8" primaries at least), and a Bullet cam (I should have done that in the first place, as the engine shop got a recommendation from them as well when I was first putting the package together).

Appreciate the input. If I pull the trigger on this, the Victor Jr. may be the way to go.

And, I think you'll like the combo. I certainly like it a lot better than my old carb'd 396/TH400 combo - easier to drive on the street, and a full second faster on the track.

 

The victor jr would be good for your setup, then clean up the ports some. It should pick you low end back up and still have enough for the top.





That's not a bad price on the elbow either.

 

The Hi-Ram dyno'd at 20 HP more than the LS3, but in the process lost some low end (60' times dropped of slightly, but ETs were slightly better).

Not sure what brought this to mind, but I recalled last night that under-hood vs. outside-the-engine compartment air inlet can make a difference in 60' times. I did back-to-back comparison runs in days gone by with open element vs. fresh air supply (6 runs total, changing between types each run), and the 60' effect was real.

I had the air filter routed in front of the radiator support panel with the LS3 intake, but didn't have enough room for that with the Hi Ram to still maintain the proper straight length for the MAF (I tried moving it back outside the panel one day at the track, it really messed things up - had to move it back inside). I do have the filter currently sitting next to the fender air vent opening (no heater installed), but that doesn't have much effect until the car gets moving. If there is a 10 mph headwind, the car will typically pick up vs. a 10 mph tailwind.

So, maybe what I really need to do is figure out a way to get the air cleaner out of the engine compartment and still maintain the MAF run (or, perhaps get off my duff and figure out how to do an SD tune...).

 

So, maybe what I really need to do is figure out a way to get the air cleaner out of the engine compartment and still maintain the MAF run (or, perhaps get off my duff and figure out how to do an SD tune...).

Since your on the track just go SD. Run tube or dual tubes to the fresh air.
There is lots of info on the HPT forum just have to read and read and read more.

 

If you throwback to SBC, the Vic Jr. is definitely a smaller manifold with a lower rpm power band than a Super Victor. Or as said engine size plays a role here too. On the other side of the coin, elevation does too.

I'd go so far as to say the low rpm gain with a Jr. would be obliterated by the loss in top end power. Certainly would be true with a SBC.

The cold air intake may be your entire power loss. Not that hard to put a MAF in the plumbing if you do CAI.

What rpm do you leave the starting line?

 

The cold air intake may be your entire power loss. Not that hard to put a MAF in the plumbing if you do CAI.

I'm out of real estate with the Hi-Ram. Amazing what the change in TB location does to your plumbing routing. I may end up putting it into the fenderwell and eliminate the vent/heater ducting inside the fender.

I've also wondered about putting a small fan in front of the radiator support panel (have two 4" holes in it already) to blow cool air toward the filter until the car gets moving.

What rpm do you leave the starting line?

I stall to 3200 (footbrake, no 2-step) and it flashes to 4500 at the hit.

 

How about a photo of your TB installation? Maybe someone will have an idea on CAI and MAF with it.

 

Best pic I have available at the moment. Might be able to get more later.



Since I took this pic I installed a sheet metal "shield" at the fender lip to divert water that may come in the gap between the fender and hood (we had a lot of rain at the track last year - learned a hard lesson about damp air filters).

 

Just turn it 90* and cut hole in rad support?

 

That worked with the LS3 intake (hole still there from that routing), but to get it to fit with the Hi-Ram shortens the straight run before the MAF and messes it up.

LS3 routing:

 

If you have no issues with that rubber connector like it is right in front of the sensor, I doubt you will reducing the straight section itself. Based on what is pictured. Try it I doubt you will even notice.

Might have to adjust the tune somewhat. Make some passe and data log and adjust as needed.

 

Well, like I said, I did try it. LS3 cartridge MAF is finicky about the leading straight section. Makes more sense to move the air filter under the fender, or tune to SD.

Although, the Victor manifold and TB intake elbow would probably move it back about to where the LS3 TB was in space.

 

I attached your picture with the elbow circled. Is this a connector if so if you flipped it and tigged the pipe as one with MAF bung in it then it should be better. I think the rubber tube connector leaving a gap in the tube inside causing turbulence might be the issue you are seeing with the shorter section.



If you just driving to and from track then SD tune it. But I am not sure how the alt and temp changes effect you were you are I am sure density alt can get high quick. But nothing that can't be allowed for in the tune. Again just going to take alot of homework for SD.

 

I attached your picture with the elbow circled. Is this a connector if so if you flipped it and tigged the pipe as one with MAF bung in it then it should be better. I think the rubber tube connector leaving a gap in the tube inside causing turbulence might be the issue you are seeing with the shorter section.

Yes, that's a connector to the MAF tube. The inlet pipe butts up to it, though. The better way would be a constant tube with just the MAF mount tacked on. I may do that (have a MIG welder now).

If you just driving to and from track then SD tune it. But I am not sure how the alt and temp changes effect you were you are I am sure density alt can get high quick. But nothing that can't be allowed for in the tune. Again just going to take alot of homework for SD.

DA swings quite a bit during any race day here. But, WOT is SD, anyway, so that isn't the issue. When I did flip the filter around, it affected the launch because it's still MAF while I stall up. After it cleaned up, it was back to "normal", but that put a big hurt on 60' and ET.

An SD tune is probably the way to go, but like you said, a lot of homework. And not sure I want to pay someone to do it. And I'm really sure I don't have the time to learn it myself right now. Also, my HPT is the narrow-band entry-level system; if I think about doing that kind of stuff, I'm going to have to upgrade to wide-band.

 

Yeah you would need a wide band. Just takes time. I would read through it on HPT forums were some good walk throughs on it IIR.

But point on SD was having it dialed in for driving on the street idle part throttle etc with changes in DA.