[Aug0202]

Just wanted to pick everyone’s brain a bit.
For the record I am mechanically inclined and have always turned my own wrenches. I recently suffered a back injury so I am a little limited on mobility. Anyway I am looking to do a frame swap on my ‘57 Bel air so I contacted a local speed shop and he quoted me about 30k. Which would get a frame blasted powder coated and replaced, engine freshened up, rear end freshened up and install of new suspension and various steering components. In theory the car should be very mechanically sound.
So my question is does this seem like it’s a fair price? It’s difficult to justify this expense when I feel like I am capable but not physically able.

 

[Postman57]

It’s a lot of money, but a lot of hours, too. I think the value would be determined by what having your driveline and suspension components “freshened up” entails.

 

[Aug0202]

It’s a lot of money, but a lot of hours, too. I think the value would be determined by what having your driveline and suspension components “freshened up” entails.

Based off of discussion my understanding is New freeze plugs, gaskets, seals, rings, bearings. Valve job Etc…Pistons, crank, gears, cam all would remain if good. which I already know will morph to greater then 30 as soon as it’s opened up. I mean we all know as soon as it’s taken apart it’s usually bad and needs replaced. I asked for a written estimate and still haven’t received it so I am not 100% yet. Also of note he is not logging labor hours and the 30k is considered scope of work.

 

[hutchenc]

I don't think any of us can say it's a good or bad value unless you say what frame you're looking to put under your car. Also, what drivetrain does it currently have? Does your motor need to be freshened up? If a full frame swap is in order, the rear suspension usually involves some fabrication...could be heavy fabrication depending on the chosen frame. A stock tri-five Chevy rear end...eh, what really can be done other than the third member gasket, hub gaskets, and wheel bearings? And if you're keeping the rear end, what upgrades from a frame swap would justify keeping a stock rear end?

Long story short, we need more details.

I can tell you that I did a front frame swap (to a C4 front end) a few years back while having some serious knee problems so I empathize with the limited mobility piece...it's tough to do that kind of work when you can't easily get up/down/under these cars easily. It took me about 3 years to complete it and just on the front end, there were a fair number of complications that were not foreseen. I would anticipate the same on a full frame swap regardless of what frame you put under it. That's hotrodding for ya.

 

[angs1957]

One benefit is that it will be done ready for you to keep going with other items you may have on your list, now the cost is another problem, you would save a whole lot if you could do most of the work yourself.

 

[TEC Tactical]

I am currently doing a frame swap on my 55. I am upgrading my control arms, steering, exhaust, leaf relocation, shock mounts, and installing a new 5.3 LT(LS) and transmission. At 52 I figured it was easier to do all that in the open vs working under the car. With the frame, I am into it for about $4k minus the engine and transmission. I will sandblast and paint the frame myself.

 

[Aug0202]

I don't think any of us can say it's a good or bad value unless you say what frame you're looking to put under your car. Also, what drivetrain does it currently have? Does your motor need to be freshened up? If a full frame swap is in order, the rear suspension usually involves some fabrication...could be heavy fabrication depending on the chosen frame. A stock tri-five Chevy rear end...eh, what really can be done other than the third member gasket, hub gaskets, and wheel bearings? And if you're keeping the rear end, what upgrades from a frame swap would justify keeping a stock rear end?

Long story short, we need more details.

I can tell you that I did a front frame swap (to a C4 front end) a few years back while having some serious knee problems so I empathize with the limited mobility piece...it's tough to do that kind of work when you can't easily get up/down/under these cars easily. It took me about 3 years to complete it and just on the front end, there were a fair number of complications that were not foreseen. I would anticipate the same on a full frame swap regardless of what frame you put under it. That's hotrodding for ya.

motor is a 350, runs and sounds good. Starts easy and has good torque. It does leak in a few spots so it wouldn’t hurt to change out all the gaskets and plugs actually I have one freeze plug leaking so I am sure more will follow eventually.
For the frame we have an original ‘57 frame we will toss back underneath it. What fabrication is needed on the rear end?

 

[amarano1]

I just purchased a frame, wilwood brakes, powder-coated, stainless lines, etc from Scotts Hot Rods for $21k. That leaves the difference for the drive train

 

[68Dart]

I would try to get an Art Morrison style frame with suspension and rear axle. Will be way ahead and add a ton of value to the car over a stock frame. Then a Blueprint small block.

 

[BamaNomad]

The term 'freshen up' means many different things to many people. I'd want a more detailed specification of their plans for the 'freshen up'...

 

[tjsdelivery]

Taking it off the frame also jeopardizes the paint. Not sure how good that is. But, if you desire all the things you mentioned, maybe it is more beneficial to buy one out there done. Many nice cars out there that have have much work done to them like you want. You know where you're at in the end with no surprises. Sell yours to fund the purchase. Many guys end up with more in the car than they can sell it for. You could very well be one of them.

 

[57 210 Wagon]

In general, any work done by others as labor costs is expensive. Also, always with classic car hobbies, the more work you can do yourself helps reduce cost and adds to the pride of "doing it yourself." Unless you have burning reasons, such as numbers matching, for keeping/using a stock frame, a complete aftermarket replacement may be a less costly route regarding frame swap and/or work. Check it out. Lastly, the most forgotten part of undertaking restoration projects is to plan.

Here are a few suggestions: (1) break apart and separate your plan into phases, (2) remove the motor and do the freeze plug, spark plugs, and gasket repairs yourself.

Good luck!

 

[Postman57]

Get the Breakdown on parts and labor; depending on this, an after market frame might be a better deal then upgrading an old one. Same goes the the drivetrain; you might be money ahead going with a new long block than re- doing your existing one (and then you have something to sell).
In any case, more data is needed before anyone can say what seems a fair deal.

 

[hutchenc]

motor is a 350, runs and sounds good. Starts easy and has good torque. It does leak in a few spots so it wouldn’t hurt to change out all the gaskets and plugs actually I have one freeze plug leaking so I am sure more will follow eventually.
For the frame we have an original ‘57 frame we will toss back underneath it. What fabrication is needed on the rear end?

I see...I thought you were saying that you were swapping out the frame for an aftermarket one. If you're just swapping to a a different stock frame then there would not be any fabrication necessary.

In my mind, that seems like an awful lot of money for a stock frame swap. Is there something wrong with the one on it now?

In terms of the suspension, steering, and rear end, you don't need to take the body off the frame to do any of that. Unless there's something wrong with the frame you have, or you really just want a powder-coated frame, this seems like highway robbery to me. You could purchase all new suspension, steering, brakes, body mounts, and various gaskets for the rear end for less than $5K easily.

 

[JBs1956150]

For that much money, buy an after market frame like AME or Roadster Shop. You can even go to Woodys and get a complete stock frame with a complete coilover suspension and rear-end for like 14k. And it'll be powder coated. That's about 16k for motor and other things. Just my opinion.

 

[hutchenc]

For that much money, buy an after market frame like AME or Roadster Shop. You can even go to Woodys and get a complete stock frame with a complete coilover suspension and rear-end for like 14k. And it'll be powder coated. That's about 16k for motor and other things. Just my opinion.

Yeah, the more I think about that, the more I think the resto shop is charging an outrageous price.

OP, see here: Woody's Hot Rodz Chassis with 4-Bar and Shock Wave (Air)

You can get a completely new frame, powder coated and everything with all upgraded Ridetech components for half of what that shop is quoting you. They have stock style options too for about $10K with all new stuff.

 

[tjsdelivery]

You can buy that stuff, but that's not labor to do the swap, like the quote is from his shop guy. I agree with not swapping a stock frame. Just have the guy to the suspension/brake upgrades on your stock frame. Way cheaper than the labor of unhooking everything to pull a body and bolt it onto another. Waste of money if you ask me.

 

[Aug0202]

You can buy that stuff, but that's not labor to do the swap, like the quote is from his shop guy. I agree with not swapping a stock frame. Just have the guy to the suspension/brake upgrades on your stock frame. Way cheaper than the labor of unhooking everything to pull a body and bolt it onto another. Waste of money if you ask me.

Frame is in bad shape unfortunately it needs to be done

 

[Aug0202]

Get the Breakdown on parts and labor; depending on this, an after market frame might be a better deal then upgrading an old one. Same goes the the drivetrain; you might be money ahead going with a new long block than re- doing your existing one (and then you have something to sell).
In any case, more data is needed before anyone can say what seems a fair deal.

I am definitely considering a long block. It’s hard to articulate more data with out seeing it first hand. I will say this is a nice cruiser not a show car but looks great from 5 feet. Up close you can see some imperfections in the paint The body is straight with no cancer just a little surface rust in a few spots but nothing major. The frame is done and needs to be replaced. Passenger leaf spring mount broke loose and needs to be fixed and there is a couple of cancer spots. Honestly, it makes more sense to just change the frame. All of the engine/drivetrain work I can do myself pretty easily but I have three on going project cars and a recent back injury so it would be nice to take my time on one while another is being finished up. It’s just the cost is a hard pill to swallow.

 

[Aug0202]

Yeah, the more I think about that, the more I think the resto shop is charging an outrageous price.

OP, see here: Woody's Hot Rodz Chassis with 4-Bar and Shock Wave (Air)

You can get a completely new frame, powder coated and everything with all upgraded Ridetech components for half of what that shop is quoting you. They have stock style options too for about $10K with all new stuff.

Thanks for the link seriously something to consider!!!