Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

Redrocker65

· Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
OK, so now I am ready to put everything back together. I opened my engine gasket set that my son got and the intake manifold gaskets are Felpro, but they are blue and have a ridge around all the openings. I am wondering if permatex is needed to intall these or are they ready to go as is? It has been a while and the last time I did this was with a 79 Z28 and I put Permatex around the ports and on the ends of both the block and the manifold itself. I am thinking of erring on the side of caution and doing that, but wondering if the gasket already has sealer on it. Thanks in advance
 
OK, so now I am ready to put everything back together. I opened my engine gasket set that my son got and the intake manifold gaskets are Felpro, but they are blue and have a ridge around all the openings. I am wondering if permatex is needed to intall these or are they ready to go as is? It has been a while and the last time I did this was with a 79 Z28 and I put Permatex around the ports and on the ends of both the block and the manifold itself. I am thinking of erring on the side of caution and doing that, but wondering if the gasket already has sealer on it. Thanks in advance
I always use sealer around the water ports only and I use black silicone instead of the rubber ends
 
Right from the source, FelPro:
Using RTV on the gaskets with Fel-Pro's propreitary rubber or silicone sealing beads causes multiple issues:

  • The sealer can chemically attack the rubber sealing beads and degrade them. RTV can act as a lubricant and cause the rubber gasket to slip out of place and split, creating an opportunity for leaks. Sealants can add thickness which creates uneven clamping force since the gasket will not be able to seat properly. Also, RTV can extrude out when the gasket is compressed, and it could end up in an oil or coolant passage and restrict or block flow.
  • In cases where a sealant is needed for installation of a Fel-Pro gasket, a FIT® Form will be included, along with the proper sealant. Only apply the sealant in the manner and locations directed. Intake manifold gasket sets may contain a small tube of RTV. This RTV is not to be used on the gasket face, but rather where the bottom corners of the gasket meet the end seals to fill the gap.
 
Right from the source, FelPro:
Using RTV on the gaskets with Fel-Pro's propreitary rubber or silicone sealing beads causes multiple issues:

  • The sealer can chemically attack the rubber sealing beads and degrade them. RTV can act as a lubricant and cause the rubber gasket to slip out of place and split, creating an opportunity for leaks. Sealants can add thickness which creates uneven clamping force since the gasket will not be able to seat properly. Also, RTV can extrude out when the gasket is compressed, and it could end up in an oil or coolant passage and restrict or block flow.
  • In cases where a sealant is needed for installation of a Fel-Pro gasket, a FIT® Form will be included, along with the proper sealant. Only apply the sealant in the manner and locations directed. Intake manifold gasket sets may contain a small tube of RTV. This RTV is not to be used on the gasket face, but rather where the bottom corners of the gasket meet the end seals to fill the gap.
he didn't state he had the ones with silicone seals made in it, just the normal raised edges
 
he didn't state he had the ones with silicone seals made in it, just the normal raised edges
Sorry....I guess I thought he was talking about the new style with the beads. My mistake. I would use the new style if available over the older Perma Torque type.
 
Sorry....I guess I thought he was talking about the new style with the beads. My mistake. I would use the new style if available over the older Perma Torque type.
If he has the original blue stripe felpros they need sealer but I think the aluminum ones have the silicone beads on the water port areas
Image

Image
 
If he has the original blue stripe felpros they need sealer but I think the aluminum ones have the silicone beads on the water port areas View attachment 424394
View attachment 424393
the first picture is an OK gasket for a cast iron intake but a very poor choice for an aluminum intake. the second is a good choice for an aluminum intake but gasgacinch it to the head and use grey Permatex around the water jackets. use black permatex for the end seals instead of the rubber or cork.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
In looking at the photos provided of the different gaskets, I have the first one. It is all blue. I used the grey sealant as it said it was for intakes. I used it around the water jacket openings on both sides of the gasket. As well as both end seals. I toyed with not using the end seals at all, but thought, they are there for a reason, so I did. I screwed up and did not put studs on the corners of the motor to guide the intake on, so I think the gasket may have slipped. I am going to leave it as is for now as I want to get the motor in the car this coming weekend. Won't be able to start it as I still need to figure out the radiator situation and hoses and a bunch of other stuff. If it leaks, it is not a huge deal to remove and replace the gaskets in the car. If I do, I will probably get the ones that already have the beads on them as I have an Edelbrock Performer manifold on it. With that said, my son has all but given up on his 69 pickup and I may have a Holly FI setup I can use either on his truck or the car. Not looking too far ahead though. One step at a time. Get the motor in, all the stuff hooked up and get it running. It has been sitting for at least 10 years, so all the brakes and lines will probably need to be replaced as well as any rubber lines for fuel. And the gas tank will either need replacing or at the least cleaned out. Anyway, long story short, the intake is on and bolted up. I am going to leave it be for now and get it in the car and see where I go from there. Who knows, I could have a huge leak in the pan gasket and the whole darn thing will have to come back out again anyway. LOL Thanks to all who replied. Appreciate it.
 
In looking at the photos provided of the different gaskets, I have the first one. It is all blue. I used the grey sealant as it said it was for intakes. I used it around the water jacket openings on both sides of the gasket. As well as both end seals. I toyed with not using the end seals at all, but thought, they are there for a reason, so I did. I screwed up and did not put studs on the corners of the motor to guide the intake on, so I think the gasket may have slipped. I am going to leave it as is for now as I want to get the motor in the car this coming weekend. Won't be able to start it as I still need to figure out the radiator situation and hoses and a bunch of other stuff. If it leaks, it is not a huge deal to remove and replace the gaskets in the car. If I do, I will probably get the ones that already have the beads on them as I have an Edelbrock Performer manifold on it. With that said, my son has all but given up on his 69 pickup and I may have a Holly FI setup I can use either on his truck or the car. Not looking too far ahead though. One step at a time. Get the motor in, all the stuff hooked up and get it running. It has been sitting for at least 10 years, so all the brakes and lines will probably need to be replaced as well as any rubber lines for fuel. And the gas tank will either need replacing or at the least cleaned out. Anyway, long story short, the intake is on and bolted up. I am going to leave it be for now and get it in the car and see where I go from there. Who knows, I could have a huge leak in the pan gasket and the whole darn thing will have to come back out again anyway. LOL Thanks to all who replied. Appreciate it.
if doing efi in the trifive replace the gas tank , nothing will hurt a efi system more than a dirty fuel system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Redrocker65
In looking at the photos provided of the different gaskets, I have the first one. It is all blue. I used the grey sealant as it said it was for intakes. I used it around the water jacket openings on both sides of the gasket. As well as both end seals. I toyed with not using the end seals at all, but thought, they are there for a reason, so I did. I screwed up and did not put studs on the corners of the motor to guide the intake on, so I think the gasket may have slipped. I am going to leave it as is for now as I want to get the motor in the car this coming weekend. Won't be able to start it as I still need to figure out the radiator situation and hoses and a bunch of other stuff. If it leaks, it is not a huge deal to remove and replace the gaskets in the car. If I do, I will probably get the ones that already have the beads on them as I have an Edelbrock Performer manifold on it. With that said, my son has all but given up on his 69 pickup and I may have a Holly FI setup I can use either on his truck or the car. Not looking too far ahead though. One step at a time. Get the motor in, all the stuff hooked up and get it running. It has been sitting for at least 10 years, so all the brakes and lines will probably need to be replaced as well as any rubber lines for fuel. And the gas tank will either need replacing or at the least cleaned out. Anyway, long story short, the intake is on and bolted up. I am going to leave it be for now and get it in the car and see where I go from there. Who knows, I could have a huge leak in the pan gasket and the whole darn thing will have to come back out again anyway. LOL Thanks to all who replied. Appreciate it.
I never use the end seals. I use rtv
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts