From what I have been told most diesel oil no longer has high zinc levels. Kendall was selling racing oil that is supposed to have the high zinc required for flat tappet cams, you might want to do some research. Regardless of what oil you use I would add the zinc additive to the oil for the first start up. I recommend priming the engine with a primer you can use with a drill motor. run primer until you have oil pressure than rotate engine by hand and do again until you have oil at all of the rockers. When reinstalling dist make sure that the timing is as close as possible before starting engine for first time. Make sure cooling system is full with no air pockets as once engine is started you do not want to shut down until it has ran 20 minutes to break in cam. Procedure your parts guy told you is good to follow. Good luck.
Tom

 

The parts guy has some good points for you. I personally have never adopted the holding the rpm that high for that length of time in order to break-in the cam thing. I know that is often recommended but I've never been comfortable with how all the other internal parts will "react" to that scenario. If you check with Melling, it may help you with your decision. One thing you should do is remove your valve covers, remove the distributor and turn the oil pump shaft using an old distributor shaft attached to a drill motor. Turn until you see oil flowing into the rocker arms. This pre-primes the engine and insures oil flow throughout the assembly.

 

follow 57 Sc's recommendation but before you stop priming rotate the crank 180 degrees and do it again.

My engine builder gave me my rebuilt engine and said if I was installing it now priming would not be necessary. I just dropped it in, filled with Shell Rotella oil and started it. He said it was not necessary to run in for 20 min. at 2K rpm and he would guarantee the motor either way. I ran it for 20 min. stopped it and dumped the oil and filter. If you do this be sure you check for leaks (gas oil water) before you bring it up to 2000 rpms and keep a garden hose handy so that when all the air pockets purge out of the block you can refill while running to avoid overheating. I drove mne for 500 miles then dumped the oil again with a new filter. Engine now has 1500 miles and runs like a scalded dog. Good luck and enjoy your new engine!

Don

 

for sure rotella dosnt have high zinc any more, u need to a ZDDP, and Yep personally fire it hold at 200 rpm, for correct period, then start adjusting timming, carb where u want it, then drain oil/change filter, and ad new oil/filter and ZDDP
just my thoughts tho:shakehands:

 

It is also beneficial to have a fresh engine start right up without a lot of excessive cranking.

To get the timing close make sure that #1 cylinder is at TDC with both valves closed. Turn the engine over by hand and make sure both valves on #1 cylinder are closed. Set the timing mark on the balancer 4° before TDC. The distributor should be installed with the rotor pointing at the #1 terminal. Make a mark on the distributor body with a Sharpie directly under the #1 terminal than remove the distributor cap. Turn the ignition on and rotate the distributor clockwise past the #1 terminal. Now slowly rotate the distributor body counterclockwise toward the #1 mark. The moment the points open stop turning the distributor and lock it down. If you listen carefully you can hear a snap sound when the points open. If your hearing isn’t very good you can use a test light with one end connected to ground and the other end touching the negative (-) side of the coil. When the points open the light will come on. The test light method will also work if you have replaced the points with an electronic ignition like a Petronix unit. This takes the guesswork out of setting the timing for the initial start up.

Your engine also needs fuel. I put some fresh gasoline in a squeeze bottle with a small nozzle. With it I can squirt 3 or 4 oz. of gas into the carburetor bowl vent(s). This fills the carburetor fuel bowls and gets it ready to fire up. You don’t want to be cranking your engine waiting for the fuel pump to fill the carburetor. It is also a bad idea to pour gas directly into the carburetor. The excess gas will wash the protective oil from your new cylinders before the rings have a chance to seat. It can also cause a fire if you don’t have the timing right.

My uncle taught me this method 40 years ago. Using what he taught me I have never had any problems getting a fresh engine to start right up.

 

It is also beneficial to have a fresh engine start right up without a lot of excessive cranking.

To get the timing close make sure that #1 cylinder is at TDC with both valves closed. Turn the engine over by hand and make sure both valves on #1 cylinder are closed. Set the timing mark on the balancer 4° before TDC. The distributor should be installed with the rotor pointing at the #1 terminal. Make a mark on the distributor body with a Sharpie directly under the #1 terminal than remove the distributor cap. Turn the ignition on and rotate the distributor clockwise past the #1 terminal. Now slowly rotate the distributor body counterclockwise toward the #1 mark. The moment the points open stop turning the distributor and lock it down. If you listen carefully you can hear a snap sound when the points open. If your hearing isn’t very good you can use a test light with one end connected to ground and the other end touching the negative (-) side of the coil. When the points open the light will come on. The test light method will also work if you have replaced the points with an electronic ignition like a Petronix unit. This takes the guesswork out of setting the timing for the initial start up.

Your engine also needs fuel. I put some fresh gasoline in a squeeze bottle with a small nozzle. With it I can squirt 3 or 4 oz. of gas into the carburetor bowl vent(s). This fills the carburetor fuel bowls and gets it ready to fire up. You don’t want to be cranking your engine waiting for the fuel pump to fill the carburetor. It is also a bad idea to pour gas directly into the carburetor. The excess gas will wash the protective oil from your new cylinders before the rings have a chance to seat. It can also cause a fire if you don’t have the timing right.

My uncle taught me this method 40 years ago. Using what he taught me I have never had any problems getting a fresh engine to start right up.

Hey steve if u still frequent this site please help i have a freshly rebuilt 283 that i cant get to start ive follow every procedure known all i can get is backfire and popping thru carb its 23rd of june 2023 rmail tnthotbox@gmail.com

 

you really need to keep revs OVER 2000rpm at lower rpm camshaft dont get any oil at all...DO NOT let it idle. :anim_25:

 

Oil

I recommend going to a GM dealership and piurchasiong a bottle of Engine Oil Supplement, (EOS) to add before start up. remove the valve covers and spread it across rockers on both sides since it has set for a while. Run the 20 minutes and dump oil. Its been sid it can clogg oil filters after 20 min. Watch the oil pressure makeing sure it doesn't drop. Used this in every new engine for 40 years.

 

Great question and answers. I have a 283 that was rebuilt 1 year ago and just sitting ready to be installed. I used a junk distributor a a primer and it works great. Make sure you orient it properly as it may only pump up one side and most of the oil just pumps back into the galley under the intake manifold. Let us know how it works out.

 

Just use plain water in the cooling system for now. I had a hose slip off and was using antifreeze in the water. The antifreeze water mixture went all over the engine compartment. The antifreeze marred the recently cad plated hardware which required re-plating. Thought I would pass my experience along in trying to keep your engine compartment hardware looking nice when braking the cam in on your new engine.

 

oil & pressure before start

Vavoline racing is high zink.
Redline also sells an addiative.
I run these oils all the time--not just for a start.

I fill the filter with oil. I also take the valve covers off and poor the oil across the heads and valve train so everything is well lubed.

A half quart overfilled will not blow seals on a first start and run in the garage.

I know a lot of folks say to start immediately, but I have had good luck with spinning the starter with the spark plugs out until oil pressure starts to come up. Once the oil pressure is up, then I want it to start immediately.

What I never want is there to be cavitation in the pump or air pockets in the oil passages for an engine running under power.

If an engine starts immediately, by the pressure is not there, then the bearings are running dry. Remember, rods and mains do not ride on the bearings--they ride on a layer of oil between the bearings. That layer gets there with oil pressure.

Mike

Mike

 

Remember, rods and mains do not ride on the bearings--they ride on a layer of oil between the bearings. That layer gets there with oil pressure.

This is why it is always a good idea to pump oil through the system with an oil primer tool before the first start up.

 

I’ll add that I keep at least 2,200-2,500 for Twenty to twenty five minutes. I use a small high power shop fan on a stool in front of radiator on high to get good airflow to keep new engine from getting too hot. Once started, turn throttle screw up to 2,200rpms and set timing to 28-32 degrees. Then settle in and keep an eye on it while varying the throttle some. It’s loud and stinky so you can’t have enough airflow.

 

Old thread alert.