[BBPanel]

I've read some posts that seem to indicate little or no vibrations with either - is one shorter in length than the other? Curious if there is a consensus on which to use. I suppose the u-joint would be better if box and column off a little - how much will the rag joint flex? Thanks. -Bob

 

[nunu]

I always use the U joint. Slightly shorter and does adapt to angles better.. Looks much better also. Never ever had an issue with road vibration.

 

[Rick_L]

Two things.

First, with one rag joint or one u-joint, you can't really do much for alignment. And that's all you get. It's best to do what you can do to align the steering column to the box. I don't think it's all that difficult unless you have a "problem car" - i.e., a bad rust bucket or collision damage.

Second thing, and I've never done one without a rag joint so I don't know how bad it is, you will get some high frequency vibration from the power steering pump up through the column, if you use a u-joint. Back in the old days, guys would weld a shaft on a 605 to emulate the stock box/column. Those had that vibration. CCI sold 605 conversions that way, but quit doing it, instead using shortened columns and rag joints.

 

[nunu]

Two things.



Second thing, and I've never done one without a rag joint so I don't know how bad it is, you will get some high frequency vibration from the power steering pump up through the column, if you use a u-joint. .

I've done many, no vibration what so ever. Total internet "old wives tales".

 

[Rick_L]

Yeah ok, but how is a single u-joint going to help you, at least in a way that can't be done better with good alignment?

Plus a u-joint is too long for most 605 or 500 box installations.

 

[Gearhead55]

Not only is a u-joint too long-- it is a battle to get the rag joint in (was for me anyway)

 

[nunu]

Yeah ok, but how is a single u-joint going to help you, at least in a way that can't be done better with good alignment?

Plus a u-joint is too long for most 605 or 500 box installations.

Neither are a cure for "bad alignment" however a U joint does install easier and has a little more angle bend. The U joints I have used are shorter then the rag joints, I usually buy Borgenson.
On the alignment issue, all bodies are off one way or the other, slightly. I've never seen anything extreme, but then I don't buy wrecks.

 

[BBPanel]

Seems to be some disagreement on length - can I talk anyone into measuring a rag joint and u-joint?

TJV55 - not sure why one would be harder than the other to install - any specifics?

Thanks. -Bob

 

[nunu]

Seems to be some disagreement on length - can I talk anyone into measuring a rag joint and u-joint?

TJV55 - not sure why one would be harder than the other to install - any specifics?

Thanks. -Bob

Maybe they buy the cheap chinese ones on Ebay from chinese products. Buy Borgenson for a quality part.

 

[Rick_L]

How long is a Borgeson u-joint? I find it hard to believe it's shorter than a rag joint.

 

[Typhoontx]

Seems to be some disagreement on length - can I talk anyone into measuring a rag joint and u-joint?

TJV55 - not sure why one would be harder than the other to install - any specifics?

Thanks. -Bob

Here is some measuments of some rag joints I came across when installing a 500 box , they seem to come in differing over all lengths

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showpost.php?p=363129&postcount=32

Regards, Robert

 

[Rick_L]

Looks like all the Borgeson single u-joints are 3-1/4" long. Compare that to Typhoontx's 2.35" to 2.75" rag joints.

Even 1/2" means a lot with the 605 or 500 box.

 

[cruzn57]

I'm sure either will work fine

but come on, ugly a$$ rag joint vs stainless U joint?
not even a second thought for me,.
if I'm changing to a 500 or 600 box with column mods, what difference will making the U joint fit?
I've used both, never had any vibrations or issues with u joint.
just cannot see why anyone would use a rag joint!
(unless your doing a 100pt original)

 

[Rick_L]

Here's a photo of mine.

As you can see, if the rag joint/u-joint was longer, the steering column wouldn't even make it to the firewall. To me that's a problem.

 

[Gearhead55]

BB Panel-my rag joint was hard to install because of the tight fit. I am only running power steering without rack and pinion. I have an LS3 in a 55 and it is just a tight fit to hook up. I had to take the steering gear off to get the joint on and then remount the gear after the joint was on the column.

 

[Gearhead55]

My rag joint is 2" long plus the nuts stick out another 3/4"- hope that helps

 

[Gearhead55]

My rag joint is 2" long plus the nuts stick out another 3/8"- hope that helps

 

[BBPanel]

Thanks everyone - appreciate the comments. -Bob

 

[markm]

but come on, ugly a$$ rag joint vs stainless U joint?
not even a second thought for me,.
if I'm changing to a 500 or 600 box with column mods, what difference will making the U joint fit?
I've used both, never had any vibrations or issues with u joint.
just cannot see why anyone would use a rag joint!
(unless your doing a 100pt original)

A rag joint is no closer to orginal than a u-joint on these cars. Rag joints are free if you have acess to 82-92 Camaro. 82 up S10 or a metric chassis G body parts car.

 

[bfr57]

I'm in the same situation with my 500 box. I already have CPP's rag joint that fits fine with the shortened shaft I modified following Eckler's directions at: http://www.classicchevy.com/assets/pdf/classicchevy/53-401.pdf.
My problem is that I have a custom bracket that houses my clutch master cylinder (thanks Oceangoer) that's right above the steering shaft. I can't get enough clearance with that big rag joint and just as previous posts have mentioned, a u-joint will not fit with a 500 box. What are the disadvantages to using a steel coupler between shaft and box? I'm afraid any movement of the steering shaft will put pressure on the box and ruin it.