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Clutch cross shaft bushing (Danchuk version)

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NinerEd

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just ordered Danchuk's clutch cross shaft bushing kit to replace the stock bushing on my '55 - I was tightening up the assembly when the stock bolt snapped in half. Could have been worse - it could have snapped while I was on the road and, you know, actually in need of the clutch.

Does anyone have the Danchuk version installed on their car? If so, do you happen to have a photo of it? Only reason I ask is that Danchuk's bushing looks markedly different from the stock version (which is basically two plastic rings screwed onto a threaded metal cylinder). I'd like to see how the newer bushing is mounted into the cross shaft opening so I can duplicate it.

Thanks in advance!
 
#2 · (Edited)
Those bolts are crap. Anyone else reading this should just order two when you buy them, I think everyone breaks the first. There are several other posts on this. Install gingerly, don't crank on the nut, you'll break the bolt, guaranteed. Since torque is different than shear, once installed, it should be OK.
Here you go: http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109780&highlight=clutch+nut+break
 
#3 ·
Fiddy5Coupe said:
Those bolts are crap. Anyone else reading this should just order two when you buy them, I think everyone breaks the first. There are several other posts on this. Install gingerly, don't crank on the nut, you'll break the bolt, guaranteed. Since torque is different than shear, once installed, it should be OK.
Here you go: http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109780&highlight=clutch+nut+break
Click to expand...
My spare from my second replacement (bought two as a precaution) is still in my glove box. Did not want to be stranded. But I haven't driven the car in a several years. :sign0020:
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Fiddy5Coupe said:
Those bolts are crap. Anyone else reading this should just order two when you buy them, I think everyone breaks the first. There are several other posts on this. Install gingerly, don't crank on the nut, you'll break the bolt, guaranteed. Since torque is different than shear, once installed, it should be OK.
Here you go: http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109780&highlight=clutch+nut+break
Click to expand...
Understood...but are there still issues with the bolts, or have they been resolved since 2014? It seems as if Danchuk took steps to address the QC problems.

If not, is there an alternative bolt that works?
 
#5 ·
If you just got one, and it broke, easily... then I'd say the problem has not been fixed. Might have just been lip service. If this really worries you, consider a hydraulic clutch conversion. Or, there are a few members here who may have some original, but used, OEM parts like this bolt. Perhaps an original GM bolt is much better. Put a feeler out in the classifieds for the part and see if you get any replies. When I've done that, I usually get several offers.
 
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
Probably should have been clearer - it was the stock GM bolt that snapped while I was trying to snug the assembly up. All of the parts in the engine and transmission are stock. The Danchuk part doesn't arrive until Friday. That's why I'm checking to see if the QC issues from 2013-14 were addressed.
 
#7 ·
#9 ·
NinerEd said:
Understood...but are there still issues with the bolts, or have they been resolved since 2014? It seems as if Danchuk took steps to address the QC problems.

If not, is there an alternative bolt that works?
Click to expand...
The Issue was resolved long time ago. We got a batch of bolts from our supplier that were not made to our specs.
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
Bill - thanks for the information. Just got the part today, and one thing I noticed is that this bushing assembly differs from the stock hardware - the parts aren't an exact 1-to-1 match. Does anyone have a diagram or photos showing how the new parts fit with the pedal rod and cross shaft arm?
 
#11 ·
Discussion starter · #13 ·
557B210 said:
Ed....Please review this thread that I found: http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140848&page=2 Maybe it relates to your issue.
Click to expand...
Honestly, I'm not sure. I took this photo of the Danchuk bushing parts I got today (left) and what I pulled out of the cross shaft assembly (right). I think the metal part of the old bushing is still in the cross shaft.

Simply put, I'm trying to figure out how the Danchuk parts fit and in what order. If the metal housing of the old bushing has to come out, so be it.
 

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Discussion starter · #14 ·
Well, the metal housing certainly is in the cross shaft - couldn't fit the new bushing in. For now, I'll use the old "innards" of the bushing with the new bolt, washers and lock nut.

That being said...now I have a bigger issue. I was checking the movement of the cross shaft, and I moved it too far backward - it's now at a 90-degree angle, pointing straight up, instead of slightly forward (and lined up with the clutch pedal rod). It won't move any further forward due to the throw-out lever.

Frankly, I'm stumped - I know the solution has got to be something really easy and I'm just not thinking of it. Any ideas out there?
 
Discussion starter · #15 · (Edited)
The good news: I managed to rotate the upper arm of the Z-bar/cross shaft back in alignment with the pedal rod by using the Shop Manual's procedure for adjusting the clutch pedal free travel (loosening check nut/adjusting nut). Once I reinstalled the old bushing (the metal housing is still in the Z-bar) and new hardware (bolt/washers/lock nut), I tightened the check nut.

In the garage, I was able to shift into 1st/reverse OK. On the road, while clutch pedal play was a lot looser (as expected), it moved through all the gears OK...though I felt a noticeable bump when I released the clutch in 3rd. It would seem that the clutch and 2nd/3rd gear levers were bumping against each other.

Now, the bad news: Once home, I shut off the engine and double-checked the shifting into each of the gears, then checked how the control rods were reacting to each gear shift. When I tried moving the 2nd/3rd control rod up and down, it must have done something, because now all pedal tension is gone and I can't shift into 1st at all.

Once the engine cools down, I'll go back in and advance the clutch rod adjusting nut back to where it was (or as close as I can get). But after that...I'm not really sure how to proceed.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Well, I'm done for the day. Managed to move the clutch rod adjustment nut back to where it was before, which not only tightened the clutch pedal back to where it was originally, it also solved the issue of the 2/3 levers bumping against the pedal rod. And the Z-bar is properly connected to the pedal rod with no issues.

That being said...when I started cycling through the gears (engine off), I lost pedal tension again. (It sounded like a spring came loose, though both the spring on the clutch rod and the springs under the dash are still in place.) It doesn't go all the way to the floor like it did before, but there's still more than 1 inch of play in the pedal, and I have to push it 2/3 of the way to the floor to disengage the clutch.

At this point, I'm about ready to just take it to the local garage and see if they can figure out what I gooned up. Fact is, I was going to have them look at the tranny anyways to see if everything was OK internally - now I have a bona fide reason to do so.

To think, had I not bumped the Z-bar backward last night, none of this fire drill would have been necessary...
 
#17 ·
Z Bar bushing

I have always used the original factory type bushing in the Z Bar. They are not available everywhere but you can still get them. Its a hard rubber piece with a bronze center shaft and the whole thing is encased in a round steel jacket. It gets pressed into the Z Bar. Perhaps our fantastic administrator can provide us wih a picture.

I still have one new one left over and two exta bolts that I have no plans on using, if you are interested.

Gary
 
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#19 ·
NinerEd said:
Bill - thanks for the information. Just got the part today, and one thing I noticed is that this bushing assembly differs from the stock hardware - the parts aren't an exact 1-to-1 match. Does anyone have a diagram or photos showing how the new parts fit with the pedal rod and cross shaft arm?
Click to expand...
Sorry. I just saw this. The part installs bushing out and end of the bolt where the lock nut goes on the clutch rod. But if you still have part of the old bushing in there then you will have to remove it. I don't have a pic but thanks for the idea...we will do something on this for you guys.
 
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#20 ·
belairman_57 said:
Sorry. I just saw this. The part installs bushing out and end of the bolt where the lock nut goes on the clutch rod. But if you still have part of the old bushing in there then you will have to remove it. I don't have a pic but thanks for the idea...we will do something on this for you guys.
Click to expand...
Yes Bill....An installation tech article would help.
 
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