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Get an old set of wheels and tires that will fit your bolt pattern.

Almost anythings else will be to low and the frame will drag

I've seen some guys tray and build some dollies that lift the car, and bolt direct to the hubs, but they were not very stable.
 
Looks like with the dropped suspension that could be a problem. And even if you put dollies under the spindles/axles AND the frame, I for one would get one hell of a back ache leaning down that low to do any work.
 

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I built a body dolly 10 years ago for a '49 F1 I was rebuilding. I used 2 x 6's, 2 x 10's and 10" pneumatic casters. The cab rolled easily and I rebuilt the dolly a few years later to move the body of my Astro van around... I had about 60 bucks into it including the cost of the casters... :)
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Reconfigured for the Astro.
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I still have it, it's leaned up against the back of the shop, waiting for the next project...
Mark
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thanks to all for your replies, ideas and suggestions. I'm going to build a dolly for the front of the car that will pick up 3 of the wheel studs on each hub. it will be made of square steel tubing and 1/4" steel plate, with four heavy duty 5" caster wheels.
For the back, I'll build another dolly that will be designed so that the rear end housing will rest on it. I still need to think more about that one.
 
Thanks to all for your replies, ideas and suggestions. I'm going to build a dolly for the front of the car that will pick up 3 of the wheel studs on each hub. it will be made of square steel tubing and 1/4" steel plate, with four heavy duty 5" caster wheels.
For the back, I'll build another dolly that will be designed so that the rear end housing will rest on it. I still need to think more about that one.
Pick up the lug studs on the rearend the same way you do the front.
With my design I couldn't do that because there was no suspension on the van or new frame. The van just sat on it with a couple of tie downs strapping it to the cart. Pretty simple and cheap and it was built in an afternoon. :)
Mark
 
Dave....If you still have the hubs on the car, why not use regular wheels and tires? Just curious :confused0006:
 
Agree get a junky set of wheels and tires that hold air who cares what happens to them. Paint, grease, mud etc. Mike
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Dave....If you still have the hubs on the car, why not use regular wheels and tires? Just curious :confused0006:
I've started the body work phase, and it would be easier on my back if I can get the car to sit higher. I like the idea of being able to move the car sideways, or in any direction easily. Plus, it gets the wheels/tires completely out of my way. I already have a caster deal that I built to support a rear axle from my last project, so it will be fairly easy to modify it to make it work for this car. Finally, I gave away the old set of wheels/tires that came with the car, and I don't feel like buying another set.
 
I'd go with a set of 6" caster wheels instead of the 5". Doesn't seam like much, but makes difference when rolling in and out of a garage.

Also make sure they're rated for heavy loads. many are only 150-250 lbs. I bought eight 6" swivel casters rated at 500 lbs each.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I'd go with a set of 6" caster wheels instead of the 5". Doesn't seam like much, but makes difference when rolling in and out of a garage.

Also make sure they're rated for heavy loads. many are only 150-250 lbs. I bought eight 6" swivel casters rated at 500 lbs each.
Hey Fuzz, I'll do ya one better. 8" steel swivel caster rated at 1,000 lbs. each!

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...9728&devicetype=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsJ-CuJ-r1wIVkjaBCh0ISgcHEAYYCCABEgIoyfD_BwE
 
That's a good buy on those 8" casters.

One of the problems I have with my 4 caster dollies with small casters that sit under a regular tire/wheel is rolling over expansion joints in the drive outside my shop when I want to swap things around, like when mocking up the body on the frame or just swapping the car end to end in the shop. Little casters get stuck in those worn out expansion joints, which now have a gap.
 
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