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Cobalt or Titanium?

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I have to add here that I have some drill bits that I think are black oxide...I don't even recall where these drill bits came from....However, they seem to cut better than any other "knife" that I have in the drawer.
 
#22 ·
I have some old Asian made drill bits (probably pre-HF) that are black oxide coated. It's simply a way to keep them from rusting on the boat.

The only reason they are working any better is probably because they are sharper (until you drill a few holes in some stainless).
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Rick_L said:
I have some old Asian made drill bits (probably pre-HF) that are black oxide coated. It's simply a way to keep them from rusting on the boat.

The only reason they are working any better is probably because they are sharper (until you drill a few holes in some stainless).
Click to expand...
I don't think that is the case Rick...I've used them several times and they are holding up better than the any of the newer bits that I have....I will have to have my fabricator guy or Bruce take a look at them and give me their opinion...(Maybe I can find an indication printed on them somewhere.)

On a side note....I am going to have to buy a dill index and sit down and sort these bits out one day....Right now they are still thrown in the box that I found then in many, many years ago.
 
#24 ·
Pops,
Looked around for those carbide drill bits I mentioned above. Can't find them just yet but I did run across some of the carbide hole saws I mentioned. This of course doesn't help you with your effort, but just wanted to post the pic for anyone interested.

As you can see they don't look quite like regular steel hole saws, but I can tell you from experience that these things cut through stainless like hot butter, where the regular steel saws will burn up in seconds and not cut through at all.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
THANKS for your inputs Dano....I wouldn't want to be on the receiving end of one of those. :scared0012:
 
#26 ·
I have some Craftsman great looking gold colored drill bits...they look great and should work great. I usually start out using one of them to drill a hole, sometimes with a drill press, always end up finishing with the old black oxide bits, they always cut better.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Just wanted to get back to anyone following this thread....I bought one of the stepless drill bit sets from HF and gave it a try today....Ran the drill slow and used plenty of lube....These chepo bits worked real well for what I'm doing.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
#31 ·
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Thank you very much Bill....I will keep that in mind, when I go to purchase my next set of bits...In the meantime....This is working very well.

557B210 said:
Just wanted to get back to anyone following this thread....I bought one of the stepless drill bit sets from HF and gave it a try today....Ran the drill slow and used plenty of lube....These chepo bits worked real well for what I'm doing.
Click to expand...
 
#33 ·
Any new indication that the black oxide is anything but a coating to avoid corrosion? Just like black oxide fasteners, where it's a low level cheap solution for that?

I'll stick by my original thought on that.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Rick_L said:
Any new indication that the black oxide is anything but a coating to avoid corrosion? Just like black oxide fasteners, where it's a low level cheap solution for that?

I'll stick by my original thought on that.
Click to expand...
I took a pic of the drill bit Rick....Maybe someone will recognize it...The bit is marked with some kind of trade mark (a capital M in a box), the size, and USA.

If you would like me to send one of these bits to you for your personal evaluation, I'd be willing to do that.

Image
 
#35 ·
Metric Washers?

Sometimes you can find the closest size metric washer will be a closer fit.

Have also successfully used the closest smaller metric socket on badly rusted nuts that are rusted down too small for the proper socket.

Thinking specifically of a 12mm socket hammered onto a rusted 5/16UNC hex nut.

Not the best for sockets, but it works in a pinch.

Garry
 
#36 ·
Titanium bits are just coated with titanium nitride and the coating wears off. once the coating is gone, they are nothing but high speed steel bits. The cobalt bits are cobalt steel all the way through. There is absolutely no better bit out there for drilling in stainless steel than cobalt, but they are not cheap. I now have no bits in my shop that are not cobalt. I gave away the countless bits that had accumulated in my shop over the years and bought a full drill index set of both fractional and number bits. The thing I notice the most that seldom gets mentioned, is the sharpening. My HSS bits would sharpen just fine, but the edge would not last. I am guessing that the temper of the steel starts to go away pretty bad on the HSS bits when you overheat them. I find that my cobalt bits seem to hold an edge just as good after they have been resharpened for the tenth time, as they did when they were new. I have had to buy a few replacement cobalt bits for my index over the years, but only because I broke a bit. I have never had to buy a new bit just because it would not hold an edge after sharpening. I keep a couple of spare 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 bits so I do not have to stop and sharpen bits if I am working on a job, and it seems that the 1/8" bit is the one I break the most. Drilling in stainless requires slow speed and high pressure, and all it takes is a little side pressure, and the bit will snap.
 
#37 · (Edited)
557B210 said:
The vice has been working with the drill bits I've used so far...Understand low and slow...Also, use cutting fluid.
Click to expand...
Think about this statement - in particular, "vice". Work holding is your issue along with possible feed and speed issues but back to the "Vice". It compresses on the washer in two very small locations, squeeze the vice to keep it from rotating and drive a two fluted cutting tool into a now egg shaped hole; grabs, rotates the washer and a large amount of explicatives are expelled as is the washer from the vice - work holding is the key to ANY machining operation. PS: Don't waste your money on the three pictured units, cute at they may be - worthless unless you're drilling lead.

What size stainless washer do you need - Actual hole size? Also, are there any restrictions on the OD of the finished unit? Consider an AN stainless washer - https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/stainlesswashers2.php



Washer Size Inner Diameter (ID) Outer Diameter (OD) Thickness
#2 C2 0.099" 1/4", 0.25" 1/32", 0.0313"
#2 C2L 0.099" 1/4", 0.25" 1/64", 0.015625" (Light)
#3 C3 0.109" 1/4", 0.25" 1/32", 0.21875"
#3 C3L 0.109" 1/4", 0.25" 1/64", 0.015625" (Light)
#4 C4 0.125" 0.312" 1/32", 0.03125"
#4 C4L 0.125" 0.312" 1/64", 0.015625" (Light)
#5 C5 0.140" 0.438" 3/64", 0.046875"
#6 C6 0.149" 0.375" 1/32", 0.03125"
#6 C6L 0.149" 0.375" 1/64", 0.015625" (Light)
#8 C8 0.174" 0.375" 1/32", 0.03125"
#8 C8L 0.174" 0.375" 1/64", 0.015625"
#10 C10 0.203" 0.437" 1/16", 0.0625"
#10 C10L 0.203" 0.437" 1/32", 0.03125" (Light)
1/4" C416 0.265" 0.500" 1/16", 0.0625"
1/4" C416L 0.265" 0.500" 1/32", 0.03125" (Light)
5/16" C516 0.328" 0.562" 1/16", 0.0625"
5/16" C516L 0.328" 0.562" 1/32", 0.03125" (Light)
3/8" C616 0.390" 0.625" 1/16", 0.0625"
3/8" C616L 0.390" 0.625" 1/32", 0.03125" (Light)
7/16" C716 0.453" 0.750" 1/16", 0.0625"
7/16" C716L 0.453" 0.750" 1/32", 0.03125" (Light)
1/2" C816 0.516" 0.875" 1/16", 0.0625"
1/2" C816L 0.516" 0.875" 1/32", 0.03125" (Light)
9/16" C916 0.578" 1.062" 1/16", 0.0625"
9/16" C916L 0.578" 1.062" 1/32", 0.03125" (Light)
5/8" C1016 0.641" 1.187" 1/16", 0.0625"
5/8" C1016L 0.641" 1.187" 1/32", 0.03125" (Light)
3/4" C1216 0.766" 1.312" 3/32", 0.09375"
3/4" C1216L 0.766" 1.312" 1/32", 0.03125" (Light)
7/8" C1416 0.890" 1.500" 3/32", 0.09375"
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Rick_L said:
I save my "vices" for things other than drilling stainless steel, preferring them after the work is done.

However a good "vise" works well for many drilling operations.
Click to expand...
You got me on that one Rick :)
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
John McGraw said:
Titanium bits are just coated with titanium nitride and the coating wears off. once the coating is gone, they are nothing but high speed steel bits. The cobalt bits are cobalt steel all the way through. There is absolutely no better bit out there for drilling in stainless steel than cobalt, but they are not cheap. I now have no bits in my shop that are not cobalt.
Click to expand...
Sounds like an excellent suggestion for my next Christmas present John.
 
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