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*Re living youth/ work in progress

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Discussion starter · #501 ·
Given my discovery of correct height with front seat, I needed to come up with alternate plan for the rear seat set.
The "C" pillar is roughly 6" forward of the seat, the frame above the window too high,
the wall below the window is where the tailgate cables are enclosed, and the top of the wheel well too low.
Have fabricated a bar from 3/16" x 1" mild steel flat bar.
Shaved the edges so width allows me to slide it into the box frame above the rear quarter.
Drilled and tapped five 1/4-20 holes in the bar, clamped the bar to the face of the frame and drilled 3/16* holes through sheet metal (like a drill jig).
Tapped a 3/8-24 hole through the bar.
Am intending to fab a reinforcement for the wheel well to allow me to attach the a 3/16" x 2" flat bar to span between wheel well and upper bar.
Will use a bubble level to mark the height of the shoulder strap, and attach the rewinder directly below.
Will likely swap the hex flange head bolts for button head to conceal behind headliner.
Oh yeah, ordered set of 1/2" ID x 1" OD x 1/2" length standoffs to set distance frame frame and window.
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Discussion starter · #502 · (Edited)
Thought of just buying another set of seat belt brackets, but, the shoulder strap when pulled is forward
with the available bracket it would tend to twist having only one bolt.
For $11.00 snagged the 3/16" x 2" flat bar, and 1 1/2 Angle iron.
Plan to cut a 4" long piece of the angle which will be bolted parallel to the interior wall on the wheel well
(one bolt at each end).
Seems obvious to me the wheel well sheet by itself is too thin.
Grabbed existing 18 gauge sheet, cut two 6" x 16" pieces.
Using two squares measured the depth from interior vertical inner wall of wheel well at 5".
Cut a cardboard gauge for a 5" radius to verify fit.
A little time on sheet metal roller and the fit seems pretty good inside the wheel well
as a back plate (the factory back plate for rear seat hinge bolts are near by).
The shoulder strap ... is pretty much over the center of the rear axle at this point.
Plan to scrub the inner well surface clean as well as the mating surface on the plate for
a reasonable application of seam sealer along with a pair of small grade eight button head bolts
(a couple of bead roller grooves for rigidity once I know where upper bolts will be)
through the bottom end of the plate at the factory pinch weld seam.
Did use button head bolts in driver side above window and will do the same on other side.
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Discussion starter · #503 ·
Cut both a piece of 3/16" x 2" flat bar for the pillar, as well as a 5" long piece of 1 1/2" angle.
Setting them in place I decided the angle iron a bit much.
Decided to bend the end of another piece of 3/16" x 2" flat bar to have a 1 3/8" 90 degree end.
Cut a piece of 1/8" x 2" flat bar to 5" length then bent one edge to 90 degree so the base is 1.6" wide.
So far, am thinking with the right prep and paint it will look better.
Obviously, I get to visit the steel supply shop again.
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Discussion starter · #506 ·
Scrubbed the pillars and sprayed with matt black.
Scrubbed the passenger wheel well enough to prep for sheet metal reinforcement.
Will likely scrub the rest of it tomorrow, then get the drivers side...
Plan to paint the mating surfaces, apply seam sealer, and secure the plate...
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Discussion starter · #510 ·
Decided to look at the floor anchors for seat belt.
There are two holes that were drilled on each side for lap belts.
Preferring to reinforce the sheet metal, am considering using the existing factory reinforcements
already there for the seatback hinge.
Can simply drill out the existing 5/16" clearance hole to that of one for a 7/16" clearance hole.
Think this is strong enough, and will place the belt coning up closer to the wall.
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Discussion starter · #511 ·
Came out pretty good.
Have ordered some 7/16-20 x 1" (I used 1 1/4" long for mock up),
figure they will prevent anyone scratching a hand...
Also ordered 7/16" i.d. x 1/4" thick grade eight flat washers to space belt anchor from adjacent bolts.
Next have to look at inboard anchors, contemplating option to get 1/8" x 1 1/2" flat bar to follow contour of floorboard
across from side to side bolting to old outboard belt holes (might be adventurous).
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Discussion starter · #512 ·
Decided to use 1/8" x 1 1/2" steel flat bar for the inboard seatbelt anchors.
The idea of spanning across left to right too busy, so came up with a separate
bar running from rear floorboard crossmember then making the turn up to the pinch weld seam for the
cargo deck.
The floorboard has opposing stiffener ribs , so the 1 1/2" wide bar is perfect to stretch the distance in between the ribs.
Added a 16 gauge plate at the radius in the floorboard to place the 7/16" hole for the belt anchor on each side,
drilling each hole in the 1 1/4" radius of the floor rather than the flat bottom floor.
Measured the distance from right to left side at 48", so the plate extending inboard allows me to drill the new holes at 16" equal spacing
allowing for a middle lap belt.
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#513 ·
The amount of overkill here, I can't put into words.
 
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Discussion starter · #514 · (Edited)
hotrodg726 said:
The amount of overkill here, I can't put into words.
Click to expand...
The original floor is what 18 gauge (.0478) over 60 years ago .
The holes for the lap belts added later contributed to the metal pulled up around them.

I drove my old 56 wagon all over the place (wife and kids back in the mid 70's) with no belts, these days I am well more responsible.
Over kill, no.
 
Discussion starter · #515 · (Edited)
Wagon so far:
New floorboards including toe boards, and floorboards over the deck under rear seat
(the deck under the rear seat was sound material, so I cheated trimming the new panels reaching just short of the angle wall up to cargo deck).
New rear brake components including cylinders, springs, shoes, drums...
New rear leaf spring bushings both ends each, with new shackles.
New front suspension including fully assembled A arms, spindles, steering arms, conversion to disc brakes.
New 8" brake booster, duel master with proportioning valve and all new stainless and rubber lines.
New E brake cables and pulleys.
New factory engine front pin mounts as well as bell housing mounts, combined with after market side engine mounts and transmission crossmember...
New heater core along with dis assembled cleaned painted deluxe heater, and related gaskets.
New interior firewall insulation.
Newly rebuilt windshield washer motor.
New chrome bezels for gauges and passenger speaker and dash trim.
New speedometer cable and housing.
Rebuilt the steering column (may upgrade later)
New tie rod ends and idler arms.
New complete wiring harness.
Scrubbed interior and exterior of all four doors, sprayed with rust reformer,
added new sound barrier inside of outer skin as well interior for behind the panels.
Scrubbed the ceiling, primer painted with new sound barrier (butyl) applied.
New glass for each door including wing window, and felt tracks.
New rear quarter windows both sides, with new seals for tailgate window glass.
New door jam seals all around.
New aluminum radiator and core support.
Newly refurbished factory bench seat (upholstery to come).
New headliner with bows scrubbed and wrapped with shrink wrap to replace old paper.
New seatbelt conversion to include shoulder strap with, as I see it,
appropriate enforcements to accommodate the belts as the floors were not designed to hold them.

Don't see it as a Bitchin Ride, rather "My Ride"
looking forward to finishing...
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Discussion starter · #516 ·
Loyd said:
Wagon so far:
New floorboards including toe boards, and floorboards over the deck under rear seat
(the deck under the rear seat was sound material, so I cheated trimming the new panels reaching just short of the angle wall up to cargo deck).
New rear brake components including cylinders, springs, shoes, drums...
New rear leaf spring bushings both ends each, with new shackles.
New front suspension including fully assembled A arms, spindles, steering arms, conversion to disc brakes.
New 8" brake booster, duel master with proportioning valve and all new stainless and rubber lines.
New E brake cables and pulleys.
New factory engine front pin mounts as well as bell housing mounts, combined with after market side engine mounts and transmission crossmember...
New heater core along with dis assembled cleaned painted deluxe heater, and related gaskets.
New interior firewall insulation.
Newly rebuilt windshield washer motor.
New chrome bezels for gauges and passenger speaker and dash trim.
New speedometer cable and housing.
Rebuilt the steering column (may upgrade later)
New tie rod ends and idler arms.
New complete wiring harness.
Scrubbed interior and exterior of all four doors, sprayed with rust reformer,
added new sound barrier inside of outer skin as well interior for behind the panels.
Scrubbed the ceiling, primer painted with new sound barrier (butyl) applied.
New glass for each door including wing window, and felt tracks.
New rear quarter windows both sides, with new seals for tailgate window glass.
New door jam seals all around.
New aluminum radiator and core support.
Newly refurbished factory bench seat (upholstery to come).
New headliner with bows scrubbed and wrapped with shrink wrap to replace old paper.
New seatbelt conversion to include shoulder strap with, as I see it,
appropriate enforcements to accommodate the belts as the floors were not designed to hold them.

Don't see it as a Bitchin Ride, rather "My Ride"
looking forward to finishing...
Can anyone recommend a good source for seat cover...?
(looking simple black Naugahyde)
View attachment 461641
View attachment 461640
View attachment 461639
Click to expand...
Damn, I forgot the rear shock relocator/crossmember...
Cleaned up the funky weld on the floor brace I added.
Bored I guess.
 
Discussion starter · #517 ·
Having decided to bolt the belt anchor in the radius of the floorboard,
I felt I needed to create a flat face for the bolt ... to tighten against.
Had some 3/16+ x 1" flat bar so I spent some time on belt sander
creating a radius on each edge one one side that rests against the curve of the floor.
Need to get a couple of 7/16 - 20 x 1 1/4" long bolts to reach through the teflock nuts,
otherwise just rinse and repeat for other side.
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#518 ·
Ah, the joys of undoing someone else's "fixes." Sounds like that middle man had more ambition than sense. You’re on the right track starting with the structure—rocker and A-pillar first, then floors. As for the transmission, if you’re going old-school with the bell housing mounts, you’ll need to fab some new frame tabs or get a crossmember setup that suits your swap. Done right, that four-speed will bring that wagon back to life with style.
 
Discussion starter · #519 · (Edited)
TimJay said:
Ah, the joys of undoing someone else's "fixes." Sounds like that middle man had more ambition than sense. You’re on the right track starting with the structure—rocker and A-pillar first, then floors. As for the transmission, if you’re going old-school with the bell housing mounts, you’ll need to fab some new frame tabs or get a crossmember setup that suits your swap. Done right, that four-speed will bring that wagon back to life with style.
Click to expand...
I did get a set of original frame horns (perches) on line ebay , as well as a cast iron bell housing.
I understand what drives others to cut off things they see as no linger functional, butat the same time see the old perches being there
as not an issue.
Added a Borg Warner T10 with Hurst competition plus shifter.
Reinforced the new floorboard (the tranny tunnel) after cutting the opening for the shifter
(admit never blinking an eye in my youth cutting holes.....).
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Loyd
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