No ; it won't run if your timing is out 180 degrees. Sounds like a carb/ choke problem more than anything ; too hard to troubleshoot over the web with so few symptoms . You say it will run if you pump the accelerator first ? I don't understand "cranks but won't turn over" . Please send us more symptoms , more detail. Be safe...Bob.

 

Bob

Sorry I don't know what I meant by "cranks but won't turn over"... sort of a double negative.

What I meant to say was that the starter will crank it no matter what, but it will not fire up unless I have the accelerator pedal pressed in while I am turning the key in the ignition, in which case it will run as long as my foot is on the accelerator. It will not idle and will die if I take my foot off the gas.

 

Sounds to me like the choke is not working...if you hold the pedal down long enough and keep it running until it reaches operating temp it should stay running on its own at that point. But if it's not warmed up and the choke is not working then it will usually die or struggle to stay running.

Check to see if the carb has either a manual or electric choke, make sure they are operating, and go from there.

 

That sounds like a vacuum leak. Did it have an EGR valve and has it's vacuum source been plugged. Also check the vacuum port for the power brakes.

 

It has an EGR Valve hooked up to the big front port 1406 edelbrock 600cfm carb
vaccum advance hooked up to the timed vaccum port on the carb (watched a video that said to put it here if you have a stick shift car) the other vaccum port is capped ,Power brakes to the manifold vaccum port, the large rear vaccum port is blocked off in the edelbrock carb here is a picture

 

These things are very hard to figure out with limited info.

Have you adjusted the idle set screw so it holds the throttle in a certain position? You should be able to set it so it holds the engine to a very fast idle. Id block all vacuum ports except advance for testing purposes.

Have you adjusted the idle mixture screws? (not even sure if that carb has idle mixture screws)

Is the choke open or closed?

What happens if you hold the choke closed?

Have you tried loosening the distributor and just bumping it one way or the other to see if things improve?

 

ok guys a few things real quick...

the choke is not functioning properly (I have it to the positive side of the coil... i know thats not the right where to go with it and I will be re-routting it asap.

I got it to run on it's own... I did have a vacuum leak at the power brake booster fitting ( I should have checked the previous owner's work.)

Thank you for all of your help... now does anyone have any insight on part 2 of my question3:


" Also, I have a 1968 muncie trans and the hurst shifter is out of alignment. I tried the 1/4 drill bit trick but I still cannot get reverse!!
I also cannot get the bolt back into the neutral alignment hole (it won't thread back in) Does anyone have any pictures of how the rods are suppose to be and or any information for this problem as well? Thanks for all of your time and helpful suggestions "


Thank you so much I have no idea where I would be without the insight of the members or this great forum!

 

I'll try and post a picture of an M20 Muncie with shifter ; I've got one ready for a customer out on the bench. Bob

 

X2 on that vacuum hose check ; I'll post those Muncie images if I can. Hope this helps . BE safe...Bob.

 

Bob....... That's not going to work. The shift lever for 1-2 is way to far back. It's either in 1st gear or the lever needs to be flipped. and the rod readjusted. From the way the picture looks, the transmission is in first and the shifter in neutral, and the 1-2 rod is adjusted all the way back. Either that or the lever is just the wrong one.

I don't mean sound like a know-it-all, I just noticed that it doesn't look right and would hate to see someone have problems while it's installed....

The lever's, in neutral, should be up and down like this one...

 

Thanks Bob that helps immensely!

My reverse is a little different. The rod is not as "smooth" and mine is much shorter

 

i would take the wire from the choke to the coil off that could cause the coule to ground out and stop the car from running at low rpms

 

Thank Midnight, I took it off last night. After work i'm going to pick up some wire and run it to a keyed 12 volt source on the fuse block.

As far as the muncie, I took a video of the shift rods but it's too large to post. I can hit the 1-2 shift and the 3-4 shift up and down. I talked to one of my neighbors who said the reverse would coem after i'm rolling. Haha not sure what it meant to be honest with you

 

I tried to get a decent picture, but not much luck. But here they are:


http://www.trifive.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61643&stc=1&d=1346355739
http://www.trifive.com/forums/attachment.php?
http://www.trifive.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61645&stc=1&d=1346355739attach
ttp://www.trifive.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61646&stc=1&d=1346355739hmentid=61644&stc=1&d=1346355739

 

I can't quite figure your linkage rods out. Something doesn't look right even if you did adjust the 1-2 gear rod. Your 1-2 rod/arm is adjusted back because the trans arm would hit the 3-4 gear rod if it were in the right position.Your reverse arm on the trans is different and the other arms are straight. Sure you have the right rods?

Looking at mine, your linkage rods don't have enough bends. (ha ha) But my shifter is original Hurst tri5 shifter and rods, so it should be right and it shifts smoothly.
I have seen used rod sets on epay and I pretty sure they sell them on the Hurst site. Also, I think the Hurst site has pictures of the rod installation, but there are a lot of combinations depending on which shifter model/make it is.
Good luck.