I feel I should know this, but I want to make sure I avoid ground problems later. I'm guessing to the intake and then a jumper to the body (firewall)? Thanks for any imput.
Best place to connect negative cable
Nitro crew chief
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I feel I should know this, but I want to make sure I avoid ground problems later. I'm guessing to the intake and then a jumper to the body (firewall)? Thanks for any imput.
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On a 1956 model the negative battery cable bolts to the firewall behind the battery. Be sure to use the special star washer to ensure good contact. There is also a large braided ground cable connected from one of the starter mounting bolts to the firewall. Use the star washer on this cable too. Here is a link to the ground cable hardware kit.
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Steve
Steve
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Unless your doing a completely stock restoration, I recommend attaching the battery cable directly to the block. Then from the block to the firewall. The ground cable was moved from the firewall to the block in 1957 and has been that way ever since. There's less obvious places than the manifold, such as bell housing bolts, starter bolts, etc.
Location:
Eastern NC
I ground to the chassis and body back by the trunk (where the battery is mounted in a box). The frame is grounded to the block and body in the front of the car, star washers all over.
I used the chassis once on a restomod. Things worked, sort of. Engine cranked very slowly, intermittent spark issues and other electrical gremlins. I connected directly to the block (just like the Autowire instructions said in capital letters : CONNECT BATTERY GROUND CABLE DIRECTLY TO BLOCK) and all my problems vanished. Engine cranked five times faster, strong consistent spark and no more gremlins. My fault for not reading the instructions completely.
Don’t rely on resistance continuity measurements with a VOM; or you will learn the hard way that signal ground and power ground are not the same thing.
Don’t rely on resistance continuity measurements with a VOM; or you will learn the hard way that signal ground and power ground are not the same thing.
My battery is located in the trunk...So, I ground it to the frame and body back there...Then run a ground to the frame to the engine up front.
Adding to the above, I think I do have one ground in series. If so it's from the firewall lug to the frame. There is no real reason to ground the frame if other things are wired factory style, but I believe my electric fuel pump negative goes to the frame. It might work without the extra frame ground, because the bumper bolts provide a pathway for the negative to the frame.
Thats how I did mine but also added a 4-gauge ground wire from frame to body for all the other circuits.
Location:
Madison WI
I would recommend tying your Battery - to the block using the starter mounting bolts if possible. The starter is the largest consumer of electric current so makes sense to have it connected as close as possible to the starter. If that isn't convenient or accessible, use the water pump mounting stud as your grounding point. Then have a heavier gauge bonding strap/wire from the block to the frame and frame to body. Always use star or bonding washers at each connection point.
If you need to add a ground stud somewhere, I've always liked the method of a through hole with a 1/4-20 bolt and a keps nut.
If you need to add a ground stud somewhere, I've always liked the method of a through hole with a 1/4-20 bolt and a keps nut.
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All my hotrods have the battery in the trunk, so that's why I also use the frame to battery and frame to engine, but also frame or engine to body with a braided strap too.
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You can never have enough ground straps on our vehicles. So, when in doubt put one in!
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Thanks for all the replies, most are what I thought, but wanted to make sure.
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For my 1957, I went Battery to Block. Then, Block to Fire Wall. Firewall, behind Ballast Resistor. Driver's side of Firewall. Closer to the Fuse Block/Dash/Instrument Panel, on Interior side of Fire Wall. I made a small Bare Metal spot. Ran 10 Ga wire. Block to Firewall. ENCAPSULATED it, with Black Liquid Tape. Where did Chevrolet put Factory Braided Copper Shunts? TWO, back of Block to Firewall? YUP! Those disappeared many engine swaps ago! LOL! I had also Replaced Fuel Tank/Sending Unit. Ran 12ga. ground, from sending unit to Bare Metal spot on Frame. Stainless Steel Self Tapping Screw, into Frame Rail. Liquid Tape again. Encapsulated it. WOW! All my Fuel Gauge problems Disappeared. Car Cranked FANTASTIC! Dash Lights Brighter, Blinkers, improved etc.
Engine is on Rubber Mounts. Body, is on SIXTY EIGHT Year old, RUBBER, body mounts with ancient, Rusty, Corroded(?) Bolts, Bolt Holes? Is everybody doing Full, Body off Frame Resto's? This bypasses all weak points. Do it completely, ONCE. Be Decisive!
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