I don't think the roll pin would be a issue it's only purpose is to keep the shaft from sliding up & down in the rag joint not in the shaft turning inside the joint causing a loose of steering. As long as safety wire is ran through the roll pin to keep it from working its self out. I discovered when I attempted to measure my rag joint for the OP that I stated that mine was drilled through with a bolt & lock nut that was incorrect. I had done that to another car that I had installed a 500 box & shortened column in. On mine the rag joint has a set screw & the steering shaft was,once everything was set marked through the set screw hole then dissembled & drilled just enough so the set screw would properly index the shaft then the set screw was locktighted in place. Everything has to be set properly including the steering wheel or hub so the upper column bearing doesn't have any play before you make the final shaft to rag joint setting permanent.

 

Yes, I forgot the part about the D shape. I see roll/tension pins break when stressed. A tight fit and there is no problem.
I really like your idea of drilling a small dimple for the set screw and the locktite.

 

wayway too much info to type....pm me and we can chat on da phone.... there is an order that needs to be followed !!!!

 

Lee Manufacturing in Sun Valley, Ca, sell a rag joint adapter kit for the 3rd gen metric ps box. I installed a 92 F,bird WS6 ps box 2-1/4 turns lock-to-lock, fast ratio in my ,68 Camaro that had a 68 manual steering Saginaw box.. Good road feel. They may have a product for you. Their ph # (818) 768-6374.

 

i drilled and tapped for a set screw on each side of the DD on my rag joint.

 

there is no stress on the pin with the dbl D shaft....it only keeps the shaft in place

 

This joint from Summit Racing is listed to be for a 500 steering box when using the shortened stock steering column SUM-770670 does not list over all length.You could give them a call.

 

Drill it, and pin it.
Or, as mine is, the flange is tig welded to the shaft. If I want to remove the column, I take the bolts out of the rag joint.

 

In the photo it appears that you only have the shaft & not the complete shortened column in place. If that is indeed the case make sure that the complete column is in place lower mount bracket bolted in place as it needs to be, including the rag joint fully engaged on the steering box shaft with the pinch bolt in its correct place before you drill the rag joint & steering shaft do this with the car sitting on all 4 wheels things will change if everything isn't in place. Also if you are going to have a column shift auto make sure the shift lever will move enough to clear the detent.I had a issue where mine would not come out of park when the steering wheel was turned in a particular position it was making contact with the rag joint bolts not hard to fix once I found the problem. PS there 2 different length rag joints the shorter of the two is preferable usually.

 

As the old buzzard said drill it then drive a roll pin in then run a locking wire through the pin around the shaft and twist to securely lock the pin in place

 

In my case I drilled the rag joint & shaft & used a 1/4" hardened allen head bolt & lock nut with red lock tight a little anal about things that can kill me but certainly the roll pin safety wire works equally as well. Tig weld even better.

 

Thanks for your replies guys.
The picture is just a mock-up, as the column tube is not yet installed.
If I were to go the route of drilling and installing a roll pin with safety wire, Do you have recommendations on what size hole/pin?
56ls408 - From my photo, can you tell from my photos if I have been supplied with the longer or shorter rag joint?
Thanks everyone

 

Hard to say from a photo I went out & attempted to measure mine I'm unable to get a accurate measurement due to my Hydraboost unit with all its hoses but the best I can tell the upper portion that the shaft goes into to the front of the flange measures as close as I can tell to1" the overall length of the rag joint appears to be about 2.5-2.75" less than 3 anyway.In your photo the upper portion appears longer but again impossible to say from the photo.I wouldn't go changing anything that you currently have till you have everything mocked up on most these shortened column installs if yours is column shift the lever usually just clears the firewall enough to have full movement.If it's not a column shift without the shift lever it's probably a easier install.

 

Just a side note on the rag joint , install I lost the ground for my horn when I installed the rag joint ,if I clamp a jumper wire on the shaft on each side of the rag joint my horn will work .It would have been nice to handle that before the install

 

We used to have to sometimes jumper a original car across the rag joint but that was from corrosion where they lost grounding

 

Question on the Tom's steering column conversion, what keeps the steering shaft from just floating inside the column tube?

 

If the fit isn't perfectly snug, I wouldn't use a roll pin. I see them break too often. And size does matter, too small and it's too weak, too big and the shaft is weakened. I like the set screw idea with two screws spread 90° apart, or the weld.
I'm assuming that the new steering column is made so it can't pull out.

 

drilled and pinned mine

 

Thanks for all of the input from everyone.

Another question is regarding the preferred order/method of putting this together.
Here is what I am thinking but not sure if this is the best order to do things or if it matters.

1. Mount steering box to frame. (Done)
2. Attach rag joint to splined shaft on steering box. (Done but not tightened yet)
3. Attach steering shaft to rag joint by either roll pin/safety wire or drill set screw/dimple or weld. (Haven't decided which method)
4. Slide column mast/jacket/tube (not sure what the correct name is) with internal gear selector linkage already loaded, over end of steering shaft inside of car and down into position. (Not sure if this method is possible separately from the shaft already being in place.

Or, do you slide the shaft and mast/jacket/tube inside the car as one unit together?

Also, what holds the firewall end of the mast/jacket/tube in place if not the original engine side firewall mounting clamp bracket?

One other thing, when is the best time to run the wires through the mast/jacket/tube?

Thanks for help with any guidance on the proper order to avoid getting myself stuck.

I'm getting close on this and excited.

 

Do not drill weld or attach the shaft in any way until you confirm it's length. there are at least a couple different lower mount options that you can get they will attach to the inside of the firewall using the current nuts in the firewall. There isn't enough room with the rag joint to use the clamp as it was originally on the outside.The shaft has to be the correct length which means it may have to be shortened some. If not correct then the upper bearing won't support the shaft correctly & your steering wheel will have play up & down. I went back & looked at your first post showing the kit you have.You have the correct lower mount, you will need to slide that mount plate down from the top side to with in a few inches from the bottom or remove everything out of the tube & install the plate from the bottom.In the photo it appears that there isn't a lower mast jacket bearing at the bottom of the column tube if that is correct it has to be there or the shaft will not be supported at the bottom. I in no way am trying to be critical but from some of the questions you are asking you may be ahead to spend the money & buy a complete column or have someone that has done this before give you a hand this is something that has to be done correctly or you are taking your life in your own hands. You need step by step instructions & follow them to the letter if you are going to put this together yourself. you are welcome to send me a conversation or what was called a PM & I would be glad to then talk to you there is too much to try & put in a post to fully answer the questions you posed.

 

do you have the number for the rag joint? i need one that is in 2" or so the one i have is 3" or better. i think this might fix my problem. not much help from the company i got got the shortened column kit from. my email is pamjimw@gmail.com. thanks for your time.

 

I went back and looked at you kit aslo the rag joint from Toms classics would NOT work for me...i suspect it will NOT work for you either.....I got mine from CPP ....it was shorter and already had the hole predrilled and came with the roll pin...........there was NO way ...i repeat NO way I could begin to use that longer one!!!!!

 

Thanks KRUNK !!!,
Today I mocked up fitment of the shortened column to the steering box. As you noted, the rag joint does NOT look like it will work. As you can see (picture), there is NO/ZERO clearance for my automatic trans gear selector to move/actuate inward to the engine bay to clear the detents on the bracket. There is zero clearance. Basically, I would be stuck in park. Not to mention, It looks like the rag joint on the DD end would bind/grind against the shifter detent collar when turning the wheel.
Looks like I need to buy the CPP low profile rag joint like this one here on eBay.
NEW CPP MINI RAG JOINT 1" DD x 3/4"-30 400 SERIES 500 SERIES POWER STEERING | eBay

It would have been nice if someone at tomsclassics would have noted I was buying their p/s kit and shortened column for column shift which would have a rag joint that would not work.

If you are going to use a 3 or 4 speed automatic then you need to change the little detent bracket mounted at the bottom of the column with one that allows more travel. Look at the one offered by Danchuk that is specifically made for that purpose. You will also need a different neutral safety switch that will enable starter engagement in park & neutral correctly if using 3 or 4 speed auto just a thought looking at your parts.

Thanks 56ls408,
I do have a TH400. Maybe I can transfer the detent bracket off of my stock column over to this shortened one?

 

Thanks 56ls408 and KRUNK !!!
I appreciate your willingness to help out very much.
For starters, it sounds like I will need to order the CPP rag joint as KRUNK !!! mentioned. Do you happen to have a part number? I'd like to get that on order.
I did purchase the pre-shortened kit which included the shortened shaft as well.
As for no bearing at the bottom end of the mast jacket, that is correct.
As there were no instructions included with the shorted kit, I'm not sure what the manufacturer intended for supporting the shaft in the bottom end of the mast jacket.

 

That sucks no instructions see if you can pull up instructions for CPP kit looks like some or all your parts came from CPP & were rebranded.But don't get confused I think they also had instructions for shortening the stock column not positive on that. It's hard enough with instructions much less without.

 

Here are pictures of the shortened column kit including the label from the box.
I didn't take a picture of the shaft which was in this kit as I have it mocked up in the car right now.

 

I used the instructions found in ccc magazine from years back when there was something in the magazine

 

If you are going to use a 3 or 4 speed automatic then you need to change the little detent bracket mounted at the bottom of the column with one that allows more travel. Look at the one offered by Danchuk that is specifically made for that purpose. You will also need a different neutral safety switch that will enable starter engagement in park & neutral correctly if using 3 or 4 speed auto just a thought looking at your parts.

 

From your photo looks like you might be able to pull the column slightly back into the car just as long as the shift lever will clear the firewall & move full range but it certainly won't work with that rag joint. You will need the shorter version & even then mine if the wheel is in a certain spot the shift lever will touch one of the bolts going through the rag joint just enough to feel a little pressure when shifting out of park, at first it would bind till I repositioned the two parts.If the detent on your original column hadn't been changed it won't be any different that what came with the new one Danchuk 2358A for 55-56 2359A for 57 using 3 or 4speed autos

 

I also got the kit from Toms classic.....besides the rag joint that didnt work... I also got a new powersteering pump that was faulty........it just figures huh?.....I had to shim my powersteering 500 box slightly to center it in the correct spot.....otherwise it would have wore the column bearing out sooner than later....after shimming it is smooth as silk